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ABS issues. My truck is trying to kill me in cold blood.

Replaced sensors, wiring good, ECBM good? Help!!

ABS issues. My truck is trying to kill me in cold blood.

Postby corbryant76 [OP] » Mar 19 2017, 6:46am

Ok, long story short - I bought a 2014 Silverado 1500 4x4 with a 5.3 and immediately after buying it from a reputable Chevy dealer, the ABS bit down on the drivers side front tire and damn near curbed me. Did it again on the highway and that was a lot of fun at 65. I was ready for it but if I hadn't been, that would have been a total. No doubt.

I checked the codes, and it was a 0040, right front WSS circuit. I replaced the sensor, and the ABS light became full time instead of being once in awhile. Checked the code again, 0040-5A; "Not Plausible".

Can someone clarify whether or not this 2013 1500 4X4 uses magnetic pickup style ABS sensors or are these going to be the 12v powered sensors that I know nothing about? I thought they were mag pickup style but didn't get any resistance (no reading in Ohms on my meter) on the new sensor, however the odd thing is that when I test across only the sensor on the drivers side (never a code for that side) I get about 700 ohms. Ok, so short to short to voltage on the drivers side? Then why did I never get a code for the drivers side and kept getting a code for the passengers? If I put it together right now, clear the codes, and drive it, within a mile or two it will nail that drivers side brake, throw the truck around for a couple of seconds then let go. After another mile or so, the ABS lights come on. The code will always be C0040-5A - Right Front WSS Circuit - Not Plausible.

I should note that I did have to install a new pigtail for the new sensor to plug into. The wiring above the harness was frayed and on wire was broken (Maybe my problem in the first place but I overlooked it). I bought a pigtail at the dealer, and it had 2 white wires. No indication of which one is which so I've tried them both ways and I reverse them I get a C0040-00 I think, which just read Right front WSS circuit and kept the ABS in fail mode all the time. That kinda tells me this is indeed a 12v sensor system. So why am I seeing 700ohms across the old working drivers side sensor and infinity (0 ohms, whatever) no reading on the new passengers side sensor, yet the only code is for the passengers....? What the hell am I missing here?
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Re: ABS issues. My truck is trying to kill me in cold blood

Postby CMAB » Mar 19 2017, 1:20pm

I have always tested them with my meter on ac voltage while spinning the hub. Not spinning you get 0 volts. Spinning it will vary the voltage with speed but generally i have seen as high .500vAC. They are just hall effect sensors that generate AC voltage as the wheel spins or as the sensor passes over the teeth on the stator ring.

If both check out I would look at the wiring front the connect to the abs module or wherever it goes.
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Re: ABS issues. My truck is trying to kill me in cold blood

Postby 19trax95 » Mar 19 2017, 1:42pm

You can't accurately test a wheel speed sensor with a multi meter.

You need an oscilloscope so you can accurately graph the pattern and measure voltages.
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Re: ABS issues. My truck is trying to kill me in cold blood

Postby ferraiolo1 » Mar 19 2017, 1:53pm

You could just replace the hub. They are cheap enough, would be cheaper than taking it to the dealer


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Re: ABS issues. My truck is trying to kill me in cold blood

Postby CMAB » Mar 19 2017, 4:26pm

19trax95 wrote:You can't accurately test a wheel speed sensor with a multi meter.

You need an oscilloscope so you can accurately graph the pattern and measure voltages.


I have used my o'scope also but if you don't have one it isn't really necessary. DVM works just as good for us shade tree mechanics just trying to save a buck.

Now if I was troubleshooting to component level the abs module the pulse height width leading trailing edge of the signal then becomes critical but easier to just replace, then the scope would definitely be necessary.

My biggest concern would be the locking up. I always thought abs was designed to fail in a disabled mode.
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Re: ABS issues. My truck is trying to kill me in cold blood

Postby corbryant76 [OP] » Mar 20 2017, 9:52pm

CMAB wrote:
19trax95 wrote:You can't accurately test a wheel speed sensor with a multi meter.

You need an oscilloscope so you can accurately graph the pattern and measure voltages.


I have used my o'scope also but if you don't have one it isn't really necessary. DVM works just as good for us shade tree mechanics just trying to save a buck.

Now if I was troubleshooting to component level the abs module the pulse height width leading trailing edge of the signal then becomes critical but easier to just replace, then the scope would definitely be necessary.

My biggest concern would be the locking up. I always thought abs was designed to fail in a disabled mode.



Yeah, unfortunately ABS clears it's own codes every time you turn the key off. When you start it, if an issue is detected it will immediately fault the system and a lockup won't happen. In my case it doesn't see an issue until I get it up over 30mph. Then it fail, locks, and pops the light. Not sure if all manufacturers are like this but they shouldn't be. That's why you have to pay attention to ABS history codes when diagnosing. I've checked the wiring to the ECBM and the sensor is new so I'm assuming it's the ABS module. Going t go ahead and pay Chevy whatever they want to diagnose it and I'll replace whatever it is.

Crap like this makes me miss my 92. LOL ABS light? Check ohms across the sensors, no resistance? Replace censors, everything else = wiring or ABS module. :) Simiple!
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Re: ABS issues. My truck is trying to kill me in cold blood

Postby CMAB » Mar 20 2017, 11:28pm

Thanks for the ABS FYI. Keep us up to date on the ultimate fix and good luck.
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Re: ABS issues. My truck is trying to kill me in cold blood

Postby corbryant76 [OP] » Mar 26 2017, 6:01am

20170322_200211.jpg


Welp, as it turns out my dad has an oscilloscope. I'm going to give troubleshooting it tomorrow a shot.
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