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radiator 2007

draining rad;

radiator 2007

Postby bsa_bob [OP] » Sep 25 2011, 6:38pm

How do you drain the radiator on a radiator that has a place for a valve lower left, and a drain hose.Am i missing something here, can i install a valve in the factory plastic "boss"'down at the lower left had corner i need to replace a thermostat [engine light on". tell me how this happens, i want a regular drain there help please!! :oops: bsa_bob i build show cars from scratch but can't figure this truck out??
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Re: radiator 2007

Postby jocko463 » Sep 26 2011, 1:20am

Hey Bob,

You probably haven't gotten a response 'cause your texting leaves a lot to be desired. You need to read what you write before you post it. If folks can't figure out what you're asking ...guess what?

Okay ...

Drain the radiator by pulling the lower hose. You wanna put a drain valve in the rad, go right ahead ...you can buy them at the hardware store. I made a custom rad valve for my '00 Cherokee using a lever ball valve with some brass tubing and rubber hose ...you have to take apart the front fascia to get the factory valve. Shouldn't be a big deal for you do to ....let your imagination go.

I think the logic is that with the factory fill of DexCool (a long term coolant) annual flushing of the cooling system is a thing of the past. And when it does get done, bring 'er in to the dealership for a cooling system "flush" for which they use a machine to do the work ...ergo you don't need the drain valve.

I'm not quite sure I understand what you're talking about with the T-stat thing ...you got a Chk Eng Light or something??

Good luck,

Mike
I'm not so much a smart guy as a guy smart enough to know how to find out....
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Re: radiator 2007

Postby bsa_bob [OP] » Sep 26 2011, 12:41pm

My post was a bit garbled--but not to me :o . I ask about a circular boss thats what they call raises/in plastic that can be used for a valve,but it is a blank with the hole [that has to be opened up] in the center, where the valve is srewed/or glued in . It Also--it has a plastic nipple sticking out of the plastic boss,that takes a rubber hose, for draining of said radiator.But this nipple is just a blank, till the valve is installed in the radiator,
You just can't stick a valve in a plastic tank /and hope it don't leak, besides that, [theres no threads]to do so.
I didn't want to just drain expensive anti-freeze out in a pan.that becomes defeating when it doesn't hit the pan catching the anti-freeze.
The "check engine light" came on . i had it scanned and was told the t-stat was bad thats where that statement came from.
I was starting to thinking had to "drill out" the boss an GLUE a valve into the radiator tank, being plastic and all. hope i scrutinized this post better maybe i'll get someone else to chime in. and you to understand sheesh! bob s
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Re: radiator 2007

Postby jocko463 » Sep 26 2011, 1:34pm

Well, sounds like your only alternative is to get a clean 5 gallon bucket, jack stand the truck high enough and pull the bottom hose. If you're careful enough most of the anti-freeze will go in the bucket. It's gonna be messy but doesn't sound like you have much choice. Maybe get a second bucket but I think the 5 gallon bucket will hold what comes out of the radiator and a little bit more. If the antifreeze is pink or reddish in color then you have DexCool and you will have to refill the system with DexCool spec anti-freeze.

T-stat ....it's probably the coolant temperature sensor the engine management computer uses. Might just be a bad connection or a broken wire. If your temperature dash gauge is working then it's probably the computer sensor ...two separate temperature sensors are used; one for the gauge and one for the computer.
I'm not so much a smart guy as a guy smart enough to know how to find out....
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Re: radiator 2007

Postby bsa_bob [OP] » Sep 26 2011, 4:52pm

Thanks for bearing with me jocko bsa_bob
ps that sensor is kinda what i was thinking too.I''ll have to take that t-stat back again.These clerks are gonna get sick of me ya think The light is off now went off by its self
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Re: radiator 2007

Postby adams99z71 » Sep 26 2011, 5:01pm

the t-stat is not a sensor.
nbs99 z71 325ci v8, stock 4wheel disc brakes, no cats, flow master classic 40 series, rhino line, custom fog lights, cb, bully dog tunner, 4:10 locker, airbag load leveling, 205,000miles.
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Re: radiator 2007

Postby bsa_bob [OP] » Sep 26 2011, 5:18pm

adams99z71 wrote:the t-stat is not a sensor.



I did know that.
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Firing on 4 cylinders [L1]
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Re: radiator 2007

Postby jocko463 » Sep 26 2011, 5:38pm

bsa_bob wrote:Thanks for bearing with me jocko bsa_bob
ps that sensor is kinda what i was thinking too.I''ll have to take that t-stat back again.These clerks are gonna get sick of me ya think The light is off now went off by its self


Do you know exactly what the code was for the "t-stat"? That would help a lot ...get it and do a Google search and you should find the specifics.
I'm not so much a smart guy as a guy smart enough to know how to find out....
'98 Sierra SL Reg Cab Short Bed
'06 Sierra SLE Extd Cab Short Bed

Support American Manufacturing and American Workers:
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Combustion on 2 pistons [L2]
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Re: radiator 2007

Postby bsa_bob [OP] » Sep 26 2011, 9:34pm

Yes they got the code on a shhet of paper and give it to me.thanks again Jocko bob s
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bsa_bob
Firing on 4 cylinders [L1]
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Posts: 42
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Re: radiator 2007

Postby bsa_bob [OP] » Jun 06 2012, 1:11am

My check engine lite is on a again.It says the t-stat is probably to blame or the iam air sensor is causing this , i've replaced the head temp sensor last fall . scanner said low water can cause this lite to stay lit.I put the correct amount in. Any new ideas on this , my neighbor keeps turning that crummy lite off for me.and it keeps coming back on !!thanks all . hope everybodys good here since last sept bob s thank you
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bsa_bob
Firing on 4 cylinders [L1]
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Posts: 42
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Joined: Jan 26 2011, 9:44pm
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