How do I test the fuel pump? I don't hear it anymore. - I have a 98 chevy 1500 Z71 with the 5.7. My truck started up no problems around ...

I have a 98 chevy 1500 Z71 with the 5.7. My truck started up no problems around 5 this afternoon i then drove 20 miles shut it off and went to start it again around 7 and it will turn over but wont start. I noticed that i wasnt hearin the fuel pump like i normally do so i checked in changed the fuse and relay for the fuel system and still wont start. How do i test to see if my fuel pump is bad?

Isn't there a fuel shutoff somewhere like in an accident that shuts off the fuel ? Wonder, if someone bumped it. Just a thought.

On the fuel rail line (top of motor) there is a Schroeder valve (tire valve). Have one person turn key on, don't crank it. Other person push middle of valve it should be under alot of psi.

Does this vehicle have a lot of miles on it? Electric fuel pumps usually last 3,000 "running" hours which usually equates to 135,000 miles. A quick trick that might get you out of trouble is to give the fuel tank a medium tap on the bottom as someone cranks it over. A worn out pump might come to life enough to get you back home with the little love tap. Another trick: If the fuel pump fuse only supplies power to the fuel pump, you can "apply" power to either side of the fuse, (using a fused jumper wire of course) and see if you hear the pump run OR you can remove the fuse and connect an ammeter (Fluke meter or whatever) across the two terminals and key up the engine or attempt to start it and see if you see 8 or 10 amps flow. You also can connect the ammeter to a 12 volt source and apply the other end to the fuse and watch current draw and listen for the pump. ALWAYS USE FUSED JUMPER WIRES!

Yes the fuel pressure can be checked at the rail but I recommend a pressure gage and not just the "well it sprays ok" test.

If you DO end up changing the fuel pump, pay CLOSE attention to the undercover wire harness of the fuel sender. It is common for those undercover connectors to get some resistance over time and not supply power to the fuel pump. If in doubt change the sender.

ALWAYS change the fuel strainer on the bottom of the pump AND the inline fuel filter when you change an electric pump. DO NOT SKIMP ON THIS! Do the job right!

I hope this helps.

Thanks to eleminate any hassel i changed the fuel pump and cheked the old one the wire had broken so it had to go anyway. Yes I did change the inline fuel filter as well got it all donr for around 325 doin the work my self. Thaks for all the help everyone has givin me. Next thing i need is to find some interior trim parts such as the over head console one of the latches broke and i would like to change the whole thing to one with the compass and or fuel milage gauge in it if possible. Plus i need a lense for the inner door safety light on the passenger side

Glad it has been fixed! You should be able to find all the other parts you need. Quite a few places to get those GM parts.

I really wish someone could come up with a fuel pump replacement that would last longer. I'm currently on my 4th pump in my '98 Silverado and they ain't cheap. On the flip side, I have a '72 Corvette with the old style mechanical pump and it's the original. They sure last longer than the new ones!!!!!!

i know they just dont make stuff like they used to. If you have any ideas where i can find the parts i need please let me know cause i am hittin dead ends everywhere.

Me, again. Just checked on Advance Auto Parts website, and they carry a Bosch fuel pump for the '98 Silverado that costs about $50.00 more than the cheap unit, and it has a lifetime warranty. Can't beat that even if you have to replace them as often as the cheapy. That will be my next pump!

JB,
Did you check the LMCtruck website for those interior parts you're lookin' for? They carry quite a few interior parts. While you're on the site, request a catalog. It has exploded views of just about every part of your truck you can think of.