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A guide to plastidip

my advice for new dippers

A guide to plastidip

Postby djentlemanjoe [OP] » May 30 2015, 2:33pm

Hello all,
As we all know plastidip is a cheap application that’s easy to work with. I have a lot of experience with this product and figured I’d help you guys out if you were planning on dipping something on your vehicle. Below I have categorized each technique and use for plastidip and easy ways to accomplish what you want using plastidip. There are a lot of people who use plastidip, but it’s a cheap alternative that’s (somewhat) removable.
First thing, let’s start off with the basics.

What is Plastidip?
Plastidip acts the same as spray paint does, you spray and it covers the material you’re spraying with a new colour. However, unlike spray paint this is more or less a plastic coating, hence why it’s “removable” I’ll get into why I don’t really think plastidip is 100% removable later. If you’re comfortable with spray paint then you’ll be comfortable with plastidip.

Plastidipping Wheels
A lot of people like plastidipping their stock wheels, new wheels are extremely expensive and if you don’t want to shell out $155+ each for new wheels, plastidip is a great way to get the black wheels you want. Easiest way to do this is to remove the wheels; you can do this one at a time or all at once. Once your wheels are off make sure you PREP your area, wash it and make sure there’s no schmegma on your wheels, if you use soap make sure there’s no residue and don’t wax! It won’t bond to wax. Once the wheels are removed buy a deck of cards or get a deck of cards you don’t really care about. Stick these cards between the tire and the wheel, hold the can 12 inches away and make a nice even coat. The first coat will always look a little splotchy; don’t worry about this as you add coats it will get more defined as you add coats. On wheels I would run probably 4-5 coats, make sure they’re even! I cannot stress this enough. Once one wheel is done move onto the next wheel, if you’re feeling like banging all 4 out. You’ll need 4 decks of cards (it took me about 52 cards per rim) however, if you’re dipping your wheels black you won’t really need the cards, however say you spray your wheels white or blue you’ll want these cards, white overspray will look bad on tires. Please don’t be a scrub, please do this correctly. Say you got a set of black wheels and want to dip them a different colour, spray them white first! This will help you get a better colour, and more even coats. With a lighter color than black, it’s hard for the dip to overcome the base black colour. I’m not sure if anyone would want to dip black wheels but that’s how you would do it if that’s your thing.

Plastidipping Moldings, Grilles and Trim
Plastidipping moldings are where things get a little tricky. It’s been my experience that removing the moldings is the easiest way to do this, to remove the moldings you’ll need some bass rated fishing line and a heat gun. Heat up the moldings a bit but not too much, you don’t want to melt these things. Start from one end and work your way down, once your moldings are a little hot take your fishing wire and wrap it around your fingers, run with line underneath the moldings and move back and forth in a sawing motion towards where you heated the moldings. Heat the moldings as needed to make this easier on yourself. Chances are you’re going to have some double sided tape still on your truck, continue using the heat gun, some lacquer thinner and a rubber buff wheel to remove this. Now your moldings are free, place these in an area where you can easily spray them. Same technique, prep well and hold 12 inches away making even coats, once this has been completed, clean the back side and use 3m double-sided OUTSIDE tape and reapply to your truck. It would be smart to make a note of the exact place you pulled the moldings off of when you first removed them. Another method would be to leave the moldings on the vehicle, this is ultimately easier but can lead to some overspray which is hard to remove compared to a full coat. Just use tape, newspaper and cover the whole area, remember you gotta keep the can 12 inches away and gravity will be working against you. Don’t spray too much in one area and cause a streak, this is something you do not want.

Trims
NBS guys may have an easier time doing this over NNBS guys. The NBS Silverado has the ridges and trim really defined and therefore much easier to tape off and keep accurate compared to the NNBS. Now a lot of the professionals will tell you to pull the tape before the last coat dries, but when you’re doing 4 or 5 coats the first coat bonds to the tape. I don’t care what anybody says or how many “dipyourcar” tutorials you watch, anytime I’ve tried this its ripped the dip and I’ve had to redo. Best method to taping and spraying is to run a razor blade on the dip next to the tape and pull it that way; it’s the only way that’s ever worked for me. You can try using knifeless tape, this stuff worked amazingly while wrapping my truck and I can imagine it works great with dip too. Always make sure you tape more than you think you’ll need so you don’t overspray.

Grilles and Emblems
Best way to dip a grill is to fully remove it! Grills are extremely easy, after you removed it, prep your area and have at it, tape off any area you don’t want dipped. This is what I mean by sometimes dip isn’t removable, Removing all dip from the grid on a grille is very time consuming, and I promise you won’t get all of it off. The easiest way to dip a bowtie or GMC emblem is to remove it, on the NBS there are two nuts behind the bowtie and this will give you an easy way to dip it with no tape.

Dipping Your Entire Truck
Dipping you entire truck is no easy task, I do not recommend it unless you have a lot of patience. Having your entire truck dipped is also a lot of maintenance, it can peel/crack and it’s extremely hard to get an even coat of paint on. If this is something you really want to tackle first thing you need to do is visit dipyourcar.com. This website is the best supplier for plastidip, here you can order spray able gallons and this will be a lot easier of an experience. You’ll get a more even coat and it will look professional. People will say you can just spray the entire vehicle and peel the windows and headlights after but I wouldn’t recommend this. You’ll never fully remove the dip this way and it can look crappy, it’s always best to treat plastidip like actual paint. Before even prepping see what moves on the truck and how, make sure these things stay covered by tape and are prepped properly, if they aren’t you can run into a lot of trouble. I didn’t know where my extended cabs window opened and the dip bonded to the window, someone opened it and ruined the entire door. This is a hard project but the end results will be endless thumbs ups and compliments, matte colours are in now.

Smoking Your Lights With Dip
I don’t recommend this, a lot of the time for dip to show up the colour you want it’s too dark and no light can come out. The easy way to do it is remove the tail lights and spray, spray LESS than what you want, you’ll most likely have to end up cutting and peeling the dip off the lights themselves so you can still see and be safe. Like I said I do not recommend this but it’s certainly possible. Try finding a spray on tint, a vinyl wrap tint or pre smoked lights instead.

Various Tips
-make a base coat of white dip while usling lighter color dips such as the blaze series, this will make the color show up better and lead to more even coats.
-Purchase a can of dip reformer, it reliquifys dip and will allow you to fix minor mistakes if you make any, it’s certainly helped me out more than it hasn’t.
-always treat dip like it was spray pain
-Don’t dip on high traffic areas such as steps or door sills, it wears out fast under the weight of someone and will lead to respraying.
-Plastidip does work against rusty areas but only as a replacement as the top coat. If you do body work and plan on running dip over it you still need to use a primer and cut all the rust out to ensure longevity.
-clearcoat doesn’t work as well as Dip glossifier, you can purchase this on dipyourcar.com

Leave any questions below and I will answer them the best of my abilities.
If you want custom headlights shoot me a PM I can help you out and give you a quote.
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Re: A guide to plastidip

Postby jmoore19 » May 30 2015, 3:11pm

How does plastidip work against rust? My father in law has some black nerf-bars that have some bad rust on it, and last winter I rattle canned them black. Well, needless to say, they need another coat on them. I was wondering, would plastidip be the way to go with this?
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Re: A guide to plastidip

Postby djentlemanjoe [OP] » May 30 2015, 3:51pm

I would sand the rust down and naval jelly it to rejuvenate the rusty metal and then hit it with bedliner. Dip does work well over rust but bedliner will last longer and that stuff is invincible. I think dip would wear very quickly under the traffic of people using the steps.
If you want custom headlights shoot me a PM I can help you out and give you a quote.
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Re: A guide to plastidip

Postby SierraHarley » May 30 2015, 4:40pm

Is there anything available to make it actually look good?
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Re: A guide to plastidip

Postby Zone » May 30 2015, 10:57pm

I've seen black PD that was about 6 months old. It did not look very good.
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Re: A guide to plastidip

Postby OlWhiskey » May 31 2015, 2:14am

jmoore19 wrote:How does plastidip work against rust? My father in law has some black nerf-bars that have some bad rust on it, and last winter I rattle canned them black. Well, needless to say, they need another coat on them. I was wondering, would plastidip be the way to go with this?


The rust bleeds through almost immediately. Not a viable solution for covering rust.
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Re: A guide to plastidip

Postby ride_002000 » May 31 2015, 3:10am

I disagree about dipping a grill or bumper. I had my bumper end caps dipped white for 2 years and just removed it only because I'm selling the truck. It held up amazing with no chips or scratches. Also had my grill done for a year with no issues, put down a lot of coats and you will be fine.
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Re: A guide to plastidip

Postby semicrazy » May 31 2015, 2:24pm

SierraHarley wrote:Is there anything available to make it actually look good?

Only if you use the dip for a base and colour match it...
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Re: A guide to plastidip

Postby djentlemanjoe [OP] » Jun 04 2015, 11:39am

semicrazy wrote:
SierraHarley wrote:Is there anything available to make it actually look good?

Only if you use the dip for a base and colour match it...


Dip does make a good base coat to paint over, you could totally dip your piece first and then spray over with spray paint and peel the dip and be back to stock color. That's something to think about if you have a really specific piece you want to color match or something.
If you want custom headlights shoot me a PM I can help you out and give you a quote.
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Re: A guide to plastidip

Postby rothwellkaelin » Jun 30 2015, 12:43pm

Just wondering how well does this hold to to going off roading? I like to go mess around in the mud every now and then and some of the trails are tight where you get sage brush and small tree branches sliding down the side of my truck which has lead to a few scratches that would be nice to cover up but also just what change it up and see how I like it in another color.
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