Changing the oil on a chevrolet silverado truck? Great tips and tricks here in this how-to guide. - Did'nt really take anytime at all. Next time I know not to ...

Did'nt really take anytime at all. Next time I know not to put the drain pan directly under. I forgot about gravity pressure, Had a small mess to clean up but it was worth the money I saved.

2001GMC wrote:If you have the factory skid plate option you will quickly discover that it makes a perfect oil trap and the you will either need to clean it out ( a major PITA) or face leaving drops of used oil where you park after every oil change. The solution is easy. Take one of your empty favorite beverage cans (soup cans are better but harder to cut) and cut both ends off, split it and lay it out flat. Now cut a rectangular piece out about four inches wide and the length of the can. On one end bend the entire end into a hook (greater than 90* bend) that will hang over the edge of the skid plate and make the other end into a V. If you are worried that the "spout" will get knocked out of place just use a pair of vice grips off to one side to clamp the end to the skid plate. Put in place before you remove the drain plug and when the "gusher" of oil settles down all of the drips will travel down the "spout" you made and into the drain pan instead of your skid plate.

The first time I changed the oil on my "04 5.3 Z71 I removed the skid plate (Aluminum?) and cut out a half round hole on it under the oil drain to eliminate this pathetic engineering oversight. But, coming from a company that forgot how to make a steering shaft or A/C controls last more than 10k, it really didn't sur prise me.

Couple more notes:
1. Sierra procedure is the same as the Silverado mentioned here.
2. I found it helpful to punch a small hole in the bottom of the filter, so it can drain. Otherwise a lot of oil comes out when you unscrew it.
3. When reinstalling, make sure to put a little oil on the filter gasket before you screw the filter on. It forms a better seal and prevents leaks, and prevents the gasket from breaking away from the filter.
4. Don't over tighten the filter. Firmly tighten by hand is all is needed. Most filter manufacturers say about 3/4 of a turn after the gasket makes contact with the engine.
5. Don't forget to lube the zirc fitting while you are down there.

Couple other things, sort of related:
1. Jack stands are not required, but do make it easier. I changed mine without them. I slid under the truck from just behind the driver side front wheel.
2. I found a great oil drain pan at Wal-Mart (along with inexpensive oil). The pan is about 2 feet across, which is good if you have trouble judging the distance the oil will shoot out. It's also good, because you can drain the filter and oil pan at the same time.

I did not see this mentioned but if it was, sorry to repeat it.

Lots of people like to pre-fill the new oil filter with fresh oil before installing it to aide in faster oil pressure. Just be careful not to introduce any dirt etc into the new oil or filter. Pour oil into new filter, wait a minute and keep topping off till its just below the top.

I've always lubed the filter gasket with a small amount of fresh grease instead of oil. Never had a leaking problem or had an issue getting the filter off again.

Grease will work too. Just need to keep the rubber gasket lubed, so it forms a good seal, and so it slides easily on the motor as the filter tightens.

lzn197 wrote:6 quarts. BTW, that info is available in the owners manual or the online manual here. A little word of advice. Pay close attention to the installation instructions on your oil filter. Nothing worse than having a filter leak or fall off later. I hope this helps. Don't forget to clean the magnet on the end of your drain plug.

Gordon

I am new to this site. Where can I find the online manuals or even do you know where I could download an owners manual for my 1999 Chevy 1500?

Thank you
Shaun

Welcome to the site shaun, at the bottom of the forum there is a section of online E-manuals 1999 is listed as one have a looksee and enjoy

Owner's Manuals

Also consider full synthetic. I have run my 2000 Silverado over 200k miles on Castrol Syntec 5W-30, and don't regret a minute of it! Engine is still strong, no leaks, and performing great. I also use a 6,000 mile change interval with synthetic. Yeah, the oil costs more, but the lubrication properties are good enough that you can run it twice as long. ...just my 2-cents!

We need to find an updated diagram of the oil pan. Mine does not drain straight out the back, it goes towards the passenger side for some reason. I'm taking a break right now because it's too freaking hot under there to be working on it. Even with my M-Pac gloves, its's too hot (yes, I have 'office' hands).

FINALLY putting in my AMSOIL!!!!