Ok, we are going to be changing the transmission fluid and filter. We are going to be do a lot more than a pan drop. We will change out all 12 quarts. We will be intercepting the return line and dropping it into a bucket and then pouring our new fluid down the tube under the hood. I will be also dropping the pan and changing the filter.
Wear some clear safety glasses, fluid in the eye burns, ask me how I know
Requirements:
ā¢ Skill Level: Intermediate
ā¢ Time: 1.5 Hours
ā¢ Special Tools: Not required. But I recommend an OTC quick disconnect tool P/N 7937 ($18 on amazon).
![Image]()
DO NOT USE A FITTING LIKE THIS, this will get you tied into the trans line but will not seal on the radiator to prevent coolant from leaking in the process.
![Image]()
You could disconnect the cooler hose leaving the top of the radiator ON THE OTHER END and use the other end of the line itself(at the cooler/ or if no cooler at the trans) to get a hose onto, but this seemed like kinda a pain unless you had an easy access to your cooler. I had an old transmission line laying around and so I cut off the end and put the hose on it.
![Image]()
You will need a bucket and some clear tubing and funnel, and of course fluid. I got 14 quarts to ensure a good flushing of the oem fluid.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
Ok, lets get started:
1) Remove the heat shield from the side of the transmission pan, it might not be necessary but it will make it easier.
2) The shift linkage is going to jam our pan up alittle, some bend it out the way but we are going to remove it.
![Image]()
Remove the two T40 bolts holding the shifting linkage, these bolts on on top, you will need to feel with your fingers. They can be seen easily from the rear...
![Image]()
See the front one?
![Image]()
Now we are clear
![Image]()
3) Now tie into the return line(that top radiator hard line right here as you wish, I used my home made piece of cut off trans line(pictured earlier) with the tubing slid over it.
![Image]()
4) Now to ease the pan drop process, I pumped some fluid out before dropping it. Dont pump it dry ....
![Image]()
5) Now lets remove the pan bolts(13mm), but leave some on the corners just loosened. We will want them to catch the pan for us.
![Image]()
In my case the pan was actually stuck so I needed some mild pulling to free it once unbolted...
![Image]()
6) Once loosened, fish it out of there after removing your hanging bolts. I didnt spill a DROP but remember we emptied some out earlier to help us !!!
![Image]()
7) See that black filter, get it out. Pull straight down and wiggle alittle. Do a simple visual for anything that looks out of norm.
![Image]()
I chose not to install the new seal that is inside that hole, mine looked fine.. its just metal and its a pain to get out. But be my guest...
![Image]()
8) This is a good time to inspect the pan for any shavings. This pan shows a good indication of the condition of the trans. Shavings=bad. Normal sludge and fine metal mud is normal. That pan needs cleaning, make it look brand new. Some nut left a magnet in mine lol!!!!! Nah, that magnet needs to be there... take it out and clean it! The pan should look like new when your done.
![Image]()
![Image]()
9) Put your new gasket that came with filter on your pan and use some bolts to keep it in place while reinstalling. I used two bolts installed from the top. Once in place i took them out. Hand tighten all bolts evenly, then cross tighten them to 8ft/lbs or 97 inch lbs... Do not over tighten them...
10) Add new fluid down your funnel(5 quarts) and then turn the truck on and pump out 5 quarts of old fluid. Turn truck off so you dont run her dry. Get a second person and you wont have to stop. Repeat the adding/removing process until fluid runs new cherry red into the bucket, thats it....!!!! You have a new filter, and all new fluid. Disconnect your setup and reconnect stock lines. Test drive and check for leaks, then once at operating temp, check fluid levels according to manual. I saved a quart in case I needed to add!
Conclusion:
This was alot easier than I expected. The concept is simple, but i dont recommend it if you are not quite sure about the steps. I tried to make it clear, but I might have left out some details that you might find necessary that I didnt? So good luck with it, hope it helps someone!
Wear some clear safety glasses, fluid in the eye burns, ask me how I know
Requirements:
ā¢ Skill Level: Intermediate
ā¢ Time: 1.5 Hours
ā¢ Special Tools: Not required. But I recommend an OTC quick disconnect tool P/N 7937 ($18 on amazon).
DO NOT USE A FITTING LIKE THIS, this will get you tied into the trans line but will not seal on the radiator to prevent coolant from leaking in the process.
You could disconnect the cooler hose leaving the top of the radiator ON THE OTHER END and use the other end of the line itself(at the cooler/ or if no cooler at the trans) to get a hose onto, but this seemed like kinda a pain unless you had an easy access to your cooler. I had an old transmission line laying around and so I cut off the end and put the hose on it.
You will need a bucket and some clear tubing and funnel, and of course fluid. I got 14 quarts to ensure a good flushing of the oem fluid.
Ok, lets get started:
1) Remove the heat shield from the side of the transmission pan, it might not be necessary but it will make it easier.
2) The shift linkage is going to jam our pan up alittle, some bend it out the way but we are going to remove it.
Remove the two T40 bolts holding the shifting linkage, these bolts on on top, you will need to feel with your fingers. They can be seen easily from the rear...
See the front one?
Now we are clear
3) Now tie into the return line(that top radiator hard line right here as you wish, I used my home made piece of cut off trans line(pictured earlier) with the tubing slid over it.
4) Now to ease the pan drop process, I pumped some fluid out before dropping it. Dont pump it dry ....
5) Now lets remove the pan bolts(13mm), but leave some on the corners just loosened. We will want them to catch the pan for us.
In my case the pan was actually stuck so I needed some mild pulling to free it once unbolted...
6) Once loosened, fish it out of there after removing your hanging bolts. I didnt spill a DROP but remember we emptied some out earlier to help us !!!
7) See that black filter, get it out. Pull straight down and wiggle alittle. Do a simple visual for anything that looks out of norm.
I chose not to install the new seal that is inside that hole, mine looked fine.. its just metal and its a pain to get out. But be my guest...
8) This is a good time to inspect the pan for any shavings. This pan shows a good indication of the condition of the trans. Shavings=bad. Normal sludge and fine metal mud is normal. That pan needs cleaning, make it look brand new. Some nut left a magnet in mine lol!!!!! Nah, that magnet needs to be there... take it out and clean it! The pan should look like new when your done.
9) Put your new gasket that came with filter on your pan and use some bolts to keep it in place while reinstalling. I used two bolts installed from the top. Once in place i took them out. Hand tighten all bolts evenly, then cross tighten them to 8ft/lbs or 97 inch lbs... Do not over tighten them...
10) Add new fluid down your funnel(5 quarts) and then turn the truck on and pump out 5 quarts of old fluid. Turn truck off so you dont run her dry. Get a second person and you wont have to stop. Repeat the adding/removing process until fluid runs new cherry red into the bucket, thats it....!!!! You have a new filter, and all new fluid. Disconnect your setup and reconnect stock lines. Test drive and check for leaks, then once at operating temp, check fluid levels according to manual. I saved a quart in case I needed to add!
Conclusion:
This was alot easier than I expected. The concept is simple, but i dont recommend it if you are not quite sure about the steps. I tried to make it clear, but I might have left out some details that you might find necessary that I didnt? So good luck with it, hope it helps someone!
