One common issue with GM trucks is that the safety system that holds the spare tire on to the truck gets corroded over time. This can cause the system to get stuck, which means the spare tire won't come off when you need it to! Fortunately, there is a way around this problem.
[tyn]Things you'll need:
Before you start
Place the transmission in Park, with the parking brake on.
You'll be working in the back of the truck, underneath the spare tire. If you need the room, jack up the rear axle, and support it with jackstands.
Step 1:
Assemble the spare tire rods, and use your truck key to unlock the cylinder that's blocking access to the spare tire. Insert the rod, with the open square end going in first. Fit the open square end to the closed square end on the safety system, and start lowering the spare tire.
Step 2:
Lower the wire all the way down. If your tire follows the wire all the way down to the ground, your safety system is working properly. If the tire stops about 3" below the safety mechanism, than you know that it's corroded. Even if the tire stops, you can still lower the wire all the way down to the ground. In the following picture, you can see how far the tire will lower if the safety system is corroded:
Now, you've got two options: Remove the bolt that holds the system on, or try to put a screwdriver through the two holes in the safety system (they face the front of the truck), and see if you can pop the mechanism loose. The holes are visible in following picture:
If you are unable to pop the mechanism loose with the screwdriver, your only other option is to take the bolt off with a 15 MM socket. There is a nut on the other side, but it's welded on to the frame of the truck. Once the bolt is off, be careful! The tire has some serious heft, and it will only be held onto the frame by a small tab. When you're positioned safely, rock the tire back and forth, driver's side-to-passenger side, and the safety mechanism should come off the frame, dropping the tire.
Step 3:
It's time to soak the whole mechanism in WD-40. If the safety latch doesn't loosen, you can either try to poke it with a screwdriver through the holes I mentioned, or just pry off the plastic tab, like this:
Once the safety latch comes out, spray it again with plenty of lube. This is also a great time to spray the wire, the cylinder that goes in the back of the bumper, and the spare tire rods. Now, if you want to put your spare tire back on, re-attach the safety mechanism to the frame, making sure to thread the wire through the center of the spare wheel BEFORE attaching the safety mechanism. Raise it with the spare tire rods, and tighten it until you feel the wire spool click.
Conclusion:
I'm not sure how long the safety system will stay lubricated, especially in Northern states that see a lot of snow and road salt. It's a good idea to do this once or twice a year. However, now you know how to take it off if you ever need to.
[tyn]Things you'll need:
- 15 MM socket; ratchet; small extension[/*]
- Flat-head screwdriver[/*]
- Spare tire kit
(in extended cab, it's underneath back seats)[/*] - WD-40 or Penetrating Oil[/*]
Before you start
Place the transmission in Park, with the parking brake on.
You'll be working in the back of the truck, underneath the spare tire. If you need the room, jack up the rear axle, and support it with jackstands.
Step 1:
Assemble the spare tire rods, and use your truck key to unlock the cylinder that's blocking access to the spare tire. Insert the rod, with the open square end going in first. Fit the open square end to the closed square end on the safety system, and start lowering the spare tire.
Step 2:
Lower the wire all the way down. If your tire follows the wire all the way down to the ground, your safety system is working properly. If the tire stops about 3" below the safety mechanism, than you know that it's corroded. Even if the tire stops, you can still lower the wire all the way down to the ground. In the following picture, you can see how far the tire will lower if the safety system is corroded:
Now, you've got two options: Remove the bolt that holds the system on, or try to put a screwdriver through the two holes in the safety system (they face the front of the truck), and see if you can pop the mechanism loose. The holes are visible in following picture:
If you are unable to pop the mechanism loose with the screwdriver, your only other option is to take the bolt off with a 15 MM socket. There is a nut on the other side, but it's welded on to the frame of the truck. Once the bolt is off, be careful! The tire has some serious heft, and it will only be held onto the frame by a small tab. When you're positioned safely, rock the tire back and forth, driver's side-to-passenger side, and the safety mechanism should come off the frame, dropping the tire.
Step 3:
It's time to soak the whole mechanism in WD-40. If the safety latch doesn't loosen, you can either try to poke it with a screwdriver through the holes I mentioned, or just pry off the plastic tab, like this:
Once the safety latch comes out, spray it again with plenty of lube. This is also a great time to spray the wire, the cylinder that goes in the back of the bumper, and the spare tire rods. Now, if you want to put your spare tire back on, re-attach the safety mechanism to the frame, making sure to thread the wire through the center of the spare wheel BEFORE attaching the safety mechanism. Raise it with the spare tire rods, and tighten it until you feel the wire spool click.
Conclusion:
I'm not sure how long the safety system will stay lubricated, especially in Northern states that see a lot of snow and road salt. It's a good idea to do this once or twice a year. However, now you know how to take it off if you ever need to.