by JCunningham » Mar 04 2011, 6:11am
by fz1rider » Jul 13 2011, 2:10am
lzn197 wrote:ALWAYS stick with as close to original equipment Spark Plugs as you can. Lots of crap and hype out there in the aftermarket world.
by BlackZ71 » Feb 14 2012, 4:12am
EKinMN wrote:nutter, that is great advice about screwing the new plug in by hand as far as possible. I cross-threaded a plug and forced it with a socket in an aluminum head once. Had to have the thing re-tapped, and probably got chucks of stuff into the cylinder. Coat 'em with anti-sieze, and screw 'em in gently! Just use the socket or torque wrench to snug them up.
by velocanman » Apr 17 2012, 3:05am
by drwilkins3 » Jul 04 2012, 6:42pm
by scooter2008 » Jul 10 2012, 4:50am
by toolsinbox » Nov 28 2012, 5:49am
by lzn197 » Nov 28 2012, 8:15pm
by JCunningham » Nov 28 2012, 8:23pm
lzn197 wrote:Not true. The is what the flat and tapered seat is for. I worked in AC Spark Plug Engineering. You have MORE danger from insufficient torque. Have you ever tried to remove a Spark Plug from an aluminum head after it has been in there for 100,000 miles?
That is why OEM Spark Plugs have a coating on them if the product goes into a aluminum head. It's not a goop you can see, just a very light coating and it's clear.
by lzn197 » Nov 28 2012, 8:25pm
It is currently Apr 28 2015, 7:49am
|SHOP TALK (Live Chat)|
|How-To Articles Forum|
|Practical advice on a particular subject that gives advice or instruction on a truck maintenance or service. How to articles are usually in the form of step-by-step instructions on how to accomplish a specific task on a GMC Sierra or Chevy Silverado.|
To create a new topic in How-To Articles, click this button:
|Previous topic Next topic|
|Share this topic|
|Sitewide News Sitemaps & Feeds|
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 5 guests