The use of T-nuts and bolts to install subs rather than screws. - How to mount subs so they are securely fastened and easily removable. A great suggestion as far ...

How to mount subs so they are securely fastened and easily removable.

A great suggestion as far as tips and tricks when mounting subwoofer speakers in a wooden enclosure.

The problem:
Wood screws are commonly used to secure subwoofers in place. The problem is, if you ever have to remove the subs to change the wiring or replace a blown sub often times you're left with a worn and stripped screw hole. The sub never quite screws back into place as snuggly and securely as the first time they are installed. Tighten the wood screw too much, and you're S.O.L. The screw will just spin in place.

The solution:
Trace the holes using your subwoofer as a pattern and predrill the holes. Then, put in some T-nuts and a threaded bolt so that the sub can installed and removed any number of times without damaging the enclosure.


Steps

1. Set the subwoofer carefully into the enclosure hole.
2. Slide the sub to each of the outermost edges (top, right, bottom, left) placing a piece of masking tape at each of the respective locations.
   
3. Center the sub in the hole. Use a black permanent Sharpie marker to mark all the holes.
   
4. Use a hot soldering iron to melt the carpet around each of the areas where holes are to be drilled. This will keep the carpet from winding around the shaft of the drillbit and destroying your box. See video...
   
   
5. With the carpet at each hole clearly out of the way. Predrill each of the holes.
   
6. Squirt a few dabs of glue on a T-nut. Gently press a T-nut on the backside of one hole. Place a large washer over one of the bolts and screw the bolt through the hole and into the T-nut. This will cause the T-nut to suck up snugly into place where it will permanently reside. You can then back the bolt out and remove the bolt as it was only used to temporarily force the T-nut into place.
   
7. Repeat the last step for each of the holes in your subwoofer enclosure.
   
8. Once all the holes have a T-nut secured to the backside of the edge, you can wire your subs and install them.
   

Congratulations! You've now mounted your subs the right way. The subwoofers will stay secure in place and will be easily removable should you ever need to remove them.

More info
The sub enclosure used in this article is a Dual 12 inch down-firing prefabricated sub box by SubThump.com. 99-06 GM Extended Cab Ultra Deep MAXX Dual 12 Inch Downfire Prefabricated Subwoofer Box. To see the full product review go to [Product Review] 99-06 Ext Cab Ultra Deep MAXX Subwoofer Box. For more information on purchasing one of these amazing prefabricated custom enclosures go to http://subthump.com/Chevrolet-GMC-Sub-B ... tended-Cab

That's a pretty good idea. What I did on a couple boxes was make a ring out of 1/8" steel plate and weld 1/4" bolts to it, then stick them up through the holes in the box. Lock washers and nuts keep the sub in place.

Then again, i way overbuilt everything back then. Double thickness 5/8" high density fiberboard for the boxes with 2x2 wood bracing at all the seams......

And why couldn't you just rotate the sub about 1/2 an inch and reuse the wood screws?

because thats the the "right way"'. Plus then, for us anal retentive guys, the logo wouldnt be square!

From my view, if the sub is secured to the enclosure then that is the "right way". I have seen many do this t-bolt setup and it works, I am just not a fan of it, it is a bit overkill just from my point of view, you just have to use what works for your application, I wouldn't do this on every sub box I used/built.

good article bro. i cant remember how many times ive had to turn my subs when reinstalling them in the past due to that same problem.

I think this ia a great idea!

It's an amazing idea, i've done it on both my sub installs and it doesn't take that much more effort than using the wood screws. I suggest doing it as well.

I would say the best part about mounting them "the right way" is less chance of punching a hole through your new speaker.I remember watching my buddy put the screw and drill through the cone.... rough day for him.

Im not dissing this idea at all im just curious if there is any creditability to "the right way" because I have tried this many times before and they 1. always leaked in a sealed box and when I siliconed the holes it eventually blew the silicone out 2. it was way to easy to flex the mount and create rattles all must be torqued exactly unlike wood screws 3. the nuts always back off eventually and need re torquing no matter what i did short of tack welding the nut to the screws 4. did a lot of damage to a box that I could have just turned the sub in considering it was a downfire box nobody could see anyway 5. it was just so time consuming

Like I said I like the idea because im also the type of guy who requires perfection when it comes to my truck just looking for creditability