Seat Lift - I'm selling my 3 T6-6066 Aluminum square tubing. I have this installed in my truck and will be taking them out on Monday. They have the predrilled ...

I'm selling my 3" T6-6066 Aluminum square tubing. I have this installed in my truck and will be taking them out on Monday. They have the predrilled holes. I chose T6-6066 aluminum blocks because of how strong it is. They are .25" thick. I looked up the specs on T6-6066 aluminum and its very strong and if I was going to raise my seats, safety was my #1 priority, especially over price. I pieced this together myself. Other members have duplicated it as I have shared this info below with people on GM membership message boards.

I recommend using strong washers here on ever block for every bolt. I also recommend using the industrial strength bolts and nuts from Lowe's. Much stronger than what came from the factory. If you have problems trying to find the bolts, then ask an employee where the Grade 8 Hex bolts are. I recommend not using a Grade 2 or 5 bolt and nut.

I suggest going to Lowes and getting 7/16" @ 1 1/4" long Grade 8 HEX Bolts seen in the very last picture. I believe I used 1" bolts and when fastened down, no threads were showing. I think 1 1/4" bolts will be too long to fit your open ended wrench inside.

Some of these sets of pictures are from when I was rewiring the first time back earlier this year and then the last set of pictures are recent of me rewiring everything again. So please excuse the mess.

Another set of pictures are pics of the blocks installed. Middle pictures are of them taken out of the truck as I just did on Saturday. Last pictures are from when I installed them in February of this year

For the Front and rear sides

Quanity: 4
6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE TUBE
2" x 3" x 0.25" 6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE TUBE
3.000000 Inches (L)

For the middle larger brackets

Quanity: 2
6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE TUBE
2" x 3" x 0.25" 6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE TUBE
6.000000 Inches (L)

Price: $120 Plus actual shipping costs

Pictures from February when I was installing the lift

Pictures I took this weekend before removing the seats and lift. Please excused the wiring mess. Im in the middle of rewiring everything.




The middle blocks are great for running your power, ground, and speaker cables through. I ran my 1/0awg power, one of my 1/0awg ground, 3 sets of speaker wire from my Focal crossover through the middle portion. Works great at hiding the wires.








Please excuse my wiring. As I said, took these pictures while I was pulling wiring


I promise that my wiring looks much better than this. lol Sorry, its a bit embarrassing so I just want to make it clear.


Front Passenger block. Great place to run your power cable.


Once again, please excuse my wire mess.


Drivers side front block. Great for running your RCA's

sorry for being blunt. What are the benefits of doing this/what's the point? Is it mainly for stereo stuff? or you have tall passengers?

INSTRUCTIONS

Very simple really. NO CUTTING OR MODIFICATION REQUIRED WHAT SO EVER. I mounted the blocks first, then the 40 section of the 40/60 seat, then the 60 section of the seat. To me it seems easier than bolting the blocks to the seat mounts first, then dropping the blocks and seat on the studs. By mounting the blocks first, you are able to slide a socket on the nut that goes to the stud, then slide an extension through the top hole and begin to tighten.


I recommend using strong washers here on ever block for every bolt. I also recommend using the industrial strength bolts and nuts from Lowe's. Much stronger than what came from the factory. If you have problems trying to find the bolts, then ask an employee where the Grade 8 and higher bolts are. I recommend not using a Grade 2 or 5 bolt and nut.

STRENGTH
Everything is aircraft grade material.

I suggest going to Lowes and getting 7/16" x 1" long Grade 8 HEX bolts seen in the very last pictures. Going with Grade 8 Hex Bolts and Nuts gives you strength of 120,000 PSI. That strong enough for ya? lol Means its stronger than what came from the factory which is Grade 2. Meaning if you were into an accident, your factory seats are more at risk to break than with this kit. Its more than twice the strength.

Plus the T6-6061 .25" aluminum

From Wikipedia:
T6-6061 aluminum is widely used for construction of aircraft structures, such as wings and fuselages, more commonly in homebuilt aircraft than commercial or military aircraft.[6] 2024 alloy is somewhat stronger, but 6061 is more easily worked and remains resistant to corrosion even when the surface is abraded, which is not the case for 2024, which is usually used with a thin Alclad coating for corrosion resistance.[7]

.25" Thickness - Ultimate Bearing Strength: 607 MPa (88000 psi)


So you can see how much research I did on safety before I made my purchase of materials

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Here are the nuts and hex bolts to get. The picture of the bolt is a generic picture. Your hex bolts will be shorter and fully threaded, however, they are this color.

Bolts:
1" bolts

http://www.lowes.com/pd_136178-37672-880197_4294934474__?productId=3012217
1 1/4" bolts if you wish.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_215442-37672-880198_4294934474__?productId=3024724

Nuts:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_136068-37672-880269_0__?productId=3012191


Pictures of the Grade 8 Nuts and HEX Bolts I have. On the head, it has 6 marks to show you that its a Grade 8 bolt. Dont skimp out on your nuts and bolts. These bolts, nuts and washers are cheap. Spend the extra 50 cents or however much and get the strong nuts and bolts. SAFETY FIRST. Same for your washers too. Get some strong washers.


Grade 2

A grade 2 bolt has no markings on the head of the bolt and is made of low or medium carbon steel. In 1/4" to 3/4" bolts the proof load -- the pressure the bolt can withstand -- is 55,000 psi (pounds per square inch), while in 3/4" to 1-1/2" bolts the proof load is 33,000 psi.

Grade 5

Grade 5 bolts are marked with three radial lines on the head of the bolt. The bolt is made of medium carbon steel that is quenched and tempered. In 1/4" to 1" bolts the proof load is 85,000 psi. In 1" to 1-1/2" bolts the proof load is 74,000 psi.


[SIZE="5"]
Grade 8

Grade 8 bolts are marked with six radial lines on the bolt head. It is made of medium carbon alloy steel that is quenched and tempered. In 1/4" to 1-1/2" bolts the proof load is 120,000 psi.[/SIZE]


Read more: What Are the Different Grades of Bolts? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/...l#ixzz206rSdmsq

Here are the bolts I have and used.

Silverado55 wrote:sorry for being blunt. What are the benefits of doing this/what's the point? Is it mainly for stereo stuff? or you have tall passengers?

Benefits:
1: Larger Subwoofer box (What I used it for)

2: Makes it more comfortable for your passengers. Gives you more leg room. Think of a computer chair that raises up and down. Think of it all the way down. Not much leg room because your legs have to stretch forward. Now lift the chair. You now have more leg room because your legs are more vertical than horizontal.

3: More room to store stuff underneath your seats. Would be good for people in construction or kids to stow away stuff like strollers, bags, etc..., more room for suitcases or whatever

I tested it with friends who are taller than me. Im 5'9 so I obviously fit in there very easily. I had a friend who is 5'11, 6'1 and one who is 6'4. They all fit in there with head room except for my friend who is 6'4, but it was still manageable. Its not like he had to duck his head, he just slid down the seat a little bit. But think about it. A person who is 6'4 is tall. Adding 3" to your lift for passengers isnt that much, but there are many benefits of raising the seats. He did say that it was actually more comfortable because he had alot more room to stretch his legs, even though his head was closer to the roof. They all liked it, plus they could see the road ahead of them without the front headrest being in the way..

I fabricated the seat raise so I could fit a bigger box. I was able to fit a 3 cu ft box net after displacement from 4 subwoofers and port displacement, which was 4" x 4" x 29" on each side (I had two ports). I think the gross volume of the box was over 4 cu ft. One of these days Im going to make another box to where the bottom, rear, and front of the box will be fiberglassed. There is more room that I didnt utilize in the back, so I could have gave the rear a lip to go over the hump and extended it a little bit now that the seats have been raised. You can fit a pretty decent size box. 4-4.5 cu ft box is achievable with this lift. You can also drop in some large 12's or 15's with a very deep mounting depth.

This is the box I fit under my seats for my four SA-8 V.2 Stock SPL 8" subs. 3 cu ft net tuned to 31hz with two 4 x 4 ports










Subs I used