This is a quick how-to article on the installation of the Spectre 9918 Cold Air Intake system on 2007.5-2013 Silverados and Sierras, 4.8l-6.0l.
Tools Needed = Phillips and Flat Blade Screwdrivers, 5/16 Nut Driver, 10 and 13mm Sockets, Racket with 6" extention, preferrably 3/8" drive, Torx T15 driver.
Time Needed = 30-60 minutes
Skill Level Needed = Basic hand tool skills only
Cost = $150.00 from Summit Racing, included shipping and $15.00 coupon for future purchase.
To start, the stock engine bay looks like this:
The very first thing to do is to open the box and inspect the contents for damaged or missing parts. No one wants to rip into a project to find the pieces to finish the project aren't there. Then, disconnect the negative battery terminal, by loosening the 10mm nut before starting the disassembly.
Once, the battery terminal is removed, you can follow the enclosed directions in the kit. Basically it starts w/ the engine cover removal. This part just pops into place, only hands required for removal.
Now, you can loosen and remove the factory hose clamp on the throttle body. Then you must unclip the radiator hose from the factory intake assembly. This last bit isn't in the factory directions.
Unplug the factory breather hose from the intake. At this point you can loosen and remove the clamp at the airbox, and take the factory intake out. You are now ready to unscrew the airbox lid, remove the factory filter and the stock airbox. Remove the 13mm bolt attaching the airbox to the radiator support. The airbox just pops in place similar to the engine cover, so a good tug up and away from the fender is all that is needed. Now you must unbolt the airbox mounting tray, by removing the (4) 10mm bolts. The directions give you great photos of this. The the final part to remove is the breather hose.
You must completely remove this not only from the stock intake, but also the engine. Engine side is a bit tricky as it requires turning and pressing a small tab, but take your time, it will come off properly. Short of taking the MAF sensor out from the stock intake, disassembly is complete. You remove the MAF sensor by unplugging the harness and removing the t15 Torx screws.
You can now begin reassembly. The kit comes w/ a rubber ring that the directions state is to go over the throttle body, but I found for my 2013 4.8l it wasn't necessary, the rubber coupler clamps down and seals perfectly w/out it. From this point on, follow the instructions, doing it step by step really is the best way. You will find that you install the throttle body rubber coupler first, as stated above, mount the new airbox and pre-oiled filter, assemble and install the air tube between the airbox and throttle body and the new breather hose. The directions stated that the new breather hose was braided, mine was not, just a black rubber hose. It also said it came w/ clamps for both ends, mine did not. The directions do not include a parts list, so I assume that this is a generic set of directions, and that explains the difference in parts. My kit was unopened so I have to assume that. I simply pushed it on as far as it would go and it has held. I will probably spend the couple of bucks and by hose clamps for it anyhow, just haven't yet. The only deviation I suggest from the directions is to wait until the major parts are assembled and installed to install the factory MAF sensor in the new tube and plug back into the harness. This will keep it safe from damage during assembly. Once final assembly is done, tighten all the clamps, reinstall the engine cover, reattach the negative battery cable, clean up the engine bay, warm up the engine and re-tighten the clamps as needed. Directions suggest to check clamp tightness periodically.
In total, this project was an easy upgrade. I did it outside, w/ the tools listed above in 35 degree temps in under 60 minutes. The kit claims hp and mileage increases. I have yet to have it on long enough to tell about the mileage, but it does seem to be slightly more responsive, and perhaps powerful. The sound is nice and "throaty" as you would expect w/ a cai kit. I am pleased w/ the outcome, even if I don't see the mileage gains.
Tools Needed = Phillips and Flat Blade Screwdrivers, 5/16 Nut Driver, 10 and 13mm Sockets, Racket with 6" extention, preferrably 3/8" drive, Torx T15 driver.
Time Needed = 30-60 minutes
Skill Level Needed = Basic hand tool skills only
Cost = $150.00 from Summit Racing, included shipping and $15.00 coupon for future purchase.
To start, the stock engine bay looks like this:
The very first thing to do is to open the box and inspect the contents for damaged or missing parts. No one wants to rip into a project to find the pieces to finish the project aren't there. Then, disconnect the negative battery terminal, by loosening the 10mm nut before starting the disassembly.
Once, the battery terminal is removed, you can follow the enclosed directions in the kit. Basically it starts w/ the engine cover removal. This part just pops into place, only hands required for removal.
Now, you can loosen and remove the factory hose clamp on the throttle body. Then you must unclip the radiator hose from the factory intake assembly. This last bit isn't in the factory directions.
Unplug the factory breather hose from the intake. At this point you can loosen and remove the clamp at the airbox, and take the factory intake out. You are now ready to unscrew the airbox lid, remove the factory filter and the stock airbox. Remove the 13mm bolt attaching the airbox to the radiator support. The airbox just pops in place similar to the engine cover, so a good tug up and away from the fender is all that is needed. Now you must unbolt the airbox mounting tray, by removing the (4) 10mm bolts. The directions give you great photos of this. The the final part to remove is the breather hose.
You must completely remove this not only from the stock intake, but also the engine. Engine side is a bit tricky as it requires turning and pressing a small tab, but take your time, it will come off properly. Short of taking the MAF sensor out from the stock intake, disassembly is complete. You remove the MAF sensor by unplugging the harness and removing the t15 Torx screws.
You can now begin reassembly. The kit comes w/ a rubber ring that the directions state is to go over the throttle body, but I found for my 2013 4.8l it wasn't necessary, the rubber coupler clamps down and seals perfectly w/out it. From this point on, follow the instructions, doing it step by step really is the best way. You will find that you install the throttle body rubber coupler first, as stated above, mount the new airbox and pre-oiled filter, assemble and install the air tube between the airbox and throttle body and the new breather hose. The directions stated that the new breather hose was braided, mine was not, just a black rubber hose. It also said it came w/ clamps for both ends, mine did not. The directions do not include a parts list, so I assume that this is a generic set of directions, and that explains the difference in parts. My kit was unopened so I have to assume that. I simply pushed it on as far as it would go and it has held. I will probably spend the couple of bucks and by hose clamps for it anyhow, just haven't yet. The only deviation I suggest from the directions is to wait until the major parts are assembled and installed to install the factory MAF sensor in the new tube and plug back into the harness. This will keep it safe from damage during assembly. Once final assembly is done, tighten all the clamps, reinstall the engine cover, reattach the negative battery cable, clean up the engine bay, warm up the engine and re-tighten the clamps as needed. Directions suggest to check clamp tightness periodically.
In total, this project was an easy upgrade. I did it outside, w/ the tools listed above in 35 degree temps in under 60 minutes. The kit claims hp and mileage increases. I have yet to have it on long enough to tell about the mileage, but it does seem to be slightly more responsive, and perhaps powerful. The sound is nice and "throaty" as you would expect w/ a cai kit. I am pleased w/ the outcome, even if I don't see the mileage gains.