Hi Everyone! Here in Pa. we have to have an annual State Inspection. My '03 Silverado passed, but the mechanic told me the front rotors, and the rear suspension u-bolts ...

Hi Everyone!

Here in Pa. we have to have an annual State Inspection. My '03 Silverado passed, but the mechanic told me the front rotors, and the rear suspension u-bolts were nearing their end of life, and they would not pass for next year.

I have replaced front rotors before so that seems pretty straight forward unless anyone can give me some insight on any '03 peculiarities with 39,000miles on it, this is a 4x4.

The u-bolts are my primary concern. My main question is, can they be replaced while the truck is still on the ground or does it have to be lifted with the rear differential supported?

Other questions:
Do I need any special tools?
Does anyone know the torque specs?
Should they be torqued with weight on or off the rear suspension?
How many times should I torque them down until I reach the final spec?
Or is it okay to just torque them right down to the final spec? I wouldn't think so.
Are there any links to how this is done, either on or off this forum? I have searched.

I do know about the X- pattern of torquing, and the bolts should(?) be treated with anti-seize.
I do have access to a complete set of mechanic's tools.
I will have a helper.
Can anyone think of anything I may be missing?

I am planning to get this done in the next couple of weeks, and I will update how the job went after completion. I appreciate any help offered!

May you, and yours have a Happy Easter!

Anak

Ubolts ending their life? Wtf? Ive never heard of that...

Regardless, no simple job...

1500 model- 74 ft lbs
2500/3500- 2008 and earlier 118
2009 later- step 1 103
Step 2 tighten additional 180 degrees

U need torque wrench of course, and some deep sockets

Rotors should be straight forward. I too have to replace mine as I’m getting the bouncing when applying brakes. As for the U bolts, I have to agree.. hard to believe they need to be replaced as they are designed for 100K miles and very harsh environments. I’d get another opinion on them before attempting to remove them as they can get very difficult.

Machster69 wrote:Ubolts ending their life? Wtf? Ive never heard of that...

Regardless, no simple job...

Me neither, I have been driving for 46years, and I've owned 6 vehicles in my time with 3 of them trucks, and it is the first time I've had it happen.

Machster69 wrote:1500 model- 74 ft lbs
2500/3500- 2008 and earlier 118
2009 later- step 1 103
Step 2 tighten additional 180 degrees

U need torque wrench of course, and some deep sockets

I would have had additional information in a sig, but I haven't yet found in my profile where the sigs are filled in.

2003 Chevrolet Silverado - 1500K - 4.8L - Full size Regular Cab - LS Model
I was told by one parts jobber that they don't go by the "K" designation anymore.

I have 3 leafs each side under the rear axle. I was told by the dealership that the truck had an extra leaf installed at the factory. BS or not? The GVWR is 6400lbs

rolltidez71 wrote:Rotors should be straight forward. I too have to replace mine as I’m getting the bouncing when applying brakes.

The mechanic must of been "rust happy" during my inspection, although I know they all have their individual idiosyncrasies in what they concern themselves when doing an inspection.

The rotors have the outer rust ridge where the pads run, that I can understand. You take the chance of ruining the pads.
He rated them at 9B, and in PA. The mechanic must fail if:

(viii) The bonded linings are less than 2/32 inch at the thinnest point.
(ix) The riveted linings are less than 1/32 inch above rivet head at thinnest point.
(x) The drums or rotors are scored deeper than .015 inch.
Source: http://www.pacode.com/secure/data/067/chapter175/s175.80.html

I'm not sure how that translates into the numerical system, maybe a 3 or 4B? I don't know.

rolltidez71 wrote:As for the U bolts, I have to agree.. hard to believe they need to be replaced as they are designed for 100K miles and very harsh environments. I’d get another opinion on them before attempting to remove them as they can get very difficult.

That's what I'm leaning towards also. I just went out to see how many leafs I had, and they don't look that bad to me.
I will be going back, and ask him specifically "What is wrong with the U-Bolts?" because I don't see anything out of the ordinary.

See pixs:
Apologies for the blurriness, it is difficult for me to keep this old body steady.

I think he doesnt understand the differance between surface rust(which is what you have) and pitting rust which weakens the metal.

@rolltidez71 u nailed it bro! Dont change those damn things, he jus wants your $, and for future, i wouldnt bring nothn back to that guy...

Thanks Guys! Instead of making an issue of it, I think I'll do like Machster69 suggests, and forget about him.

A couple hours with a wire brush,some paint,and detailing,it will look like new.I make it part of spring cleaning.Mt truck is 12 years old,is almost as new underneath.

I did do that a few years ago, but your right it needs it again.

My advice is buy the Por 15 system......for about 60$ you can go on ebay and get enough of this treatment system for your axles leaf springs and fram rails....comes with a cleaner a metal prep and a resin which will make your suspention and frame look brand new....easy work and never ever have to worry about rust again....plus it adds value which will be nice should you ever decide to trade her in.