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Trailer Brake Controller

21K views 27 replies 22 participants last post by  1madmouse 
#1 ·
Hello all, I am upgrading my camper from a 13' to a 31', sad to see it go but the family needs the room. Anyways this is obviously requiring me to add a trailer brake controller. I currently have the trailer package on my truck but need to get a trailer brake controller, I know that they all do basically the same thing, but was wondering if anyone has had better or worse experience with different models. Just wondering what you all thought. Thank you in advance.
 
#2 ·
I use the Tekonsha Voyageur brake unit. It is easy to install and has a leveling wheel. It is easy to adjust on the fly and has the test slide. I have had about 4-5 of these units on various work trucks and all have treated me well. I would recommend this unit to anyone.

Cheers,
Dave
 
#4 ·
I have the Prodigy from Tekonsha, about 100 dollars on most web sites. I like the digital read out and it is good from 1 to 4 axles. Also, you can get a plug from Tekonsha that will plug right into the jack under your dash board and connects right to the controller, so no splicing. Do not forget that if your camper has a battery and you have the Z71 package, you will have to take out the dummy plug and put in a 20 or 30 amp fuse under your hood.
 
#7 ·
My last two tow rigs I ran the Teknosha Prodigy with no problems.Now,on my 2011 Z71 will I run into installation problems? I ask this because I have been told that there is no longer any "plug and play" for aftermarket brake controllers and they have to be installed at the dealership.Any truth to that? Thanx in advance folks...
-george
 
#11 ·
I like my Tekonsha Prodigy - very simple to use ( I've got one of the first off the line from 2001).

Anyway, I found the harness that comes with the trailering package on my new truck. It was located on the left side of the drivers side area, up behind the vent, multicolored bundle with white tape (marked with what each wire does).

I also need to hook up the the 12V red wire under the hood near the fuse box, fender side. I am pretty sure it connects to one of the studs on the front of the fuse box - just need to stick a meter on it to see which one has 12 V.

If anyone knows something different let me know before I smoke the thing. :lol:

seach tags: 2011 Brake Harness Location Under Dash Drivers Side Controller Harness
 
#15 ·
Better late than never.

The Prodigy gets high marks with the towed RV crowd since it senses how much you're slowing and applies the same amount of trailer brakes. The advantage is it will increase/decrease the amount of voltage it applies to the trailer brakes based on any changes in how you are braking. if you have to suddenly add braking the trailer gets more too, let up a little and the trailer brakes let up. Time based controllers ramp up to their setting and stay there. You'd have to completely release your braking effort to get them to start again and they cannot ease up.

I started towing with a time based controller but now have a Prodigy.
 
#16 ·
GM-GUY said:
I like my Tekonsha Prodigy - very simple to use ( I've got one of the first off the line from 2001).

Anyway, I found the harness that comes with the trailering package on my new truck. It was located on the left side of the drivers side area, up behind the vent, multicolored bundle with white tape (marked with what each wire does).

I also need to hook up the the 12V red wire under the hood near the fuse box, fender side. I am pretty sure it connects to one of the studs on the front of the fuse box - just need to stick a meter on it to see which one has 12 V.

If anyone knows something different let me know before I smoke the thing. :lol:

seach tags: 2011 Brake Harness Location Under Dash Drivers Side Controller Harness
etrailer.com has an excellent write up for the install of the controller on the 2011 Silverados. Google it.
 
#17 ·
lohchief said:
My last two tow rigs I ran the Teknosha Prodigy with no problems.Now,on my 2011 Z71 will I run into installation problems? I ask this because I have been told that there is no longer any "plug and play" for aftermarket brake controllers and they have to be installed at the dealership.Any truth to that? Thanx in advance folks...
-george
GM decided to save a couple of pennies per vehicle and eliminated the plug. I was hoping for it so I could install my Prodigy in minutes. They've gone to the same thing they did on my 2005 Envoy. There are 5 blunt cut wires taped up under the dash and they are labeled. I've verified they are there and was going to connect them to a Prodigy cable today but Irene decided to start dumping on me.

Using some butt splice connectors (they come with the cable), wire stripper and a crimper you can have everything tied together in about 10 minutes. There is a thread in this forum that has the wire colors to match up but I have a concern about one of the matchups. eTrailer.com has a couple of videos and a technical bulletin that makes more sense. Unfortunately my notes are not by this computer.

Here is the eTrailer install video.

You also have to connect a wire under the hood at the fuse block. The wire for the brake controller is taped away between the fuse box and the fender. I can just see mine but haven't dug it out. It goes to the fatter of the two posts on the front of the fuse box. You have to supply a M8x1.25 nut. The fuse you need should already be in the fuse box slot. The other stud is for constant 12V (M6x1.0 nut) to the back trailer connector but be forewarned you can kill your battery. That wire is supposed to be under the brake booster but I haven't looked for mine. You need to supply a 40A fuse of a style I am not familiar with. My Envoy has a similar setup.

Hope this helps. I try to think these things through so I can get them done right the first time.
 
#18 ·
OK just finished installing the Prodigy. Did the wiring and controller install after Irene yesterday and picked up a M8x1.25 nut plus a 40A J-Case fuse for the constant 12V to the trailer circuit. I'll say one thing, GM made the same install concept a lot easier on the 2005 Envoy. The wires under the dash were better marked with a tape flag that had each wires purpose very clearly printed on it and held in place with regular electrical tape. The 12V to the controller only needed a fuse if I remember correctly and the 12V to the trailer wire was held in a clip right by the under hood fuse box.

I did three things a little differently from how I've seen others do it here. First I put the controller just to the right of the ash tray so both the passenger and driver can get to it. I'll rarely have someone in the center seat. My wife was got our old pop-up camper into some sway and she didn't remember what to do so I just reached over and applied the trailer's brakes and smoothed us out.

Second I used the mount that lets me take the Prodigy out so if someone is in that seat there is less chance that it will get broken.

Third, I put the M6x1.0 nut on the trailer 12V feed but did not connect the wire. GM is still putting a clamp with a clip on it near the fuse box so I extended the wire from under the brake booster and stowed it there. I can have it hooked up in a couple of minutes if I need it. But I will not accidently power the trailer for an extended period and kill the truck's battery. To prevent that you'd need a battery isolator but that's not on my list of additions to the truck at this time.

If anybody needs some advice, let me know. I hope to post pictures once I get around 'tuit and get them off my camera.
 
#19 ·
All brake controllers don't do the same thing.

Suggest you get a proportional brake controller like the Prodigy. If you get a cheap one, you will be wasting your $$$ and will be buying a better one after your first towing experience with a large trailer.

You may get more info on the Open Roads Forum which is RV related and they have a section on Towing.
 
#21 ·
dtzackus said:
I have the Prodigy from Tekonsha, about 100 dollars on most web sites. I like the digital read out and it is good from 1 to 4 axles. Also, you can get a plug from Tekonsha that will plug right into the jack under your dash board and connects right to the controller, so no splicing. Do not forget that if your camper has a battery and you have the Z71 package, you will have to take out the dummy plug and put in a 20 or 30 amp fuse under your hood.
UH? I have a 2011 Sierra 1500 Z71 and just ordered the Prodigy P3 controller (will install it next week). What exactly do you mean I'll have to take out the dummy plug and install a fuse? Thanks for the help!
 
#22 ·
3 year old thread but I will try and help you

If you don't have a certain tow package GM may not install all the fuses for the the trailer connections. I know for certain you will need to locate the power wire for the brake controller and connect it to the post at the fuse box under the hood on the drivers side of the engine bay. This supplies power to the brake controller. TBH I am not 100% up to speed on the pre 2013 GM's.
 
#24 ·
I have a 2011 Sierra crew cab with hd trailer towing package minus built in brake controller and it does have traction control. In the owners manual it says that a brake controller cannot be added if you have you have traction control. Does anyone have a truck with traction control that added a brake controller, if so; what did you use?
 
#25 ·
This is the info I found in O/M about trailer brakes and Stabilitrak system:
"Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes - and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you'll be able to install,
adjust and maintain them properly.
If your vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak®, your trailer
cannot tap into the vehicle's hydraulic brake system.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle's
hydraulic brake system only if:
• The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
• The trailer's brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle's
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won't work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at
the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid
to the rear brakes. But don't use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel
brake tubing."
 
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