Research and selection of the best electric cooling fan - So I have started my research stage in the electric cooling fan mod/install for the 2004 5.3L. This is what ...

So I have started my research stage in the electric cooling fan mod/install for the 2004 5.3L. This is what I came up with so far:

A Flex-A-Lite variable dual electric fan.
p/n 282
Dual 15" blades move 5500 CFM
Variable Speed Control
Glass reinforced nylon injection molded shroud
Amp Draw 28
Adj. Thermostat 180º-240º
Air Conditioning Relay
Height 17" Width 31-7/8" Depth 4-1/2"

$549.95 from www.Amazon.com

I’ve looked around other sites such as Jegs, Summit Racing. JCWhitney to name a few and Amazon has the best deal so far and includes free shipping. I know it’s a bit early to do this as I have 87 days until I rotate home but I can’t wait.

I welcome any input from the SAE mechs on the dimensional fit. Also, if anyone can find a better price or other electric cooling fans out there.

Don’t try to talk me out of this, I’m getting it. I didn’t list the HP or MPG gains, as most of you know that when the seller say, “up to yada yada HP!” it’s usually under very specific conditions. However, I’m going with this mod because I’ve been around enough track racers to know that there is a benefit in HP and MPG. I’ve also done an engine fan delete in my BMW; upgraded to a high capacity water pump and Behr radiator. I saw HP gains from that but there is no similar set-up for a GMC truck that I know of.

So I’m going with this mod and I’ll let you all know the results in late June. First, I’ll run a test tank of gas without the mod and then compare after the install. Yes, and I’ll post pics and write up an “how-to” article as well.

Wow! That is a lot of money you know. Any you have to do the work.

If you're asking if I have anyone to do the install; no. I can do any work that I have the equipment for. The one shortage I seem to have with a toddler is time.

I have that exact fan on my 2000 5.3 silverado! I like it.

Most local auto part stores have a FREE fan clutch removal kit you can borrow. So get it before you start the project. Mine fit easily in there. There are little tabs that fit into the stock rad mounts and latch in there @ the base. So the only bolts are @ the top. I did notice a difference. Especially during takeoffs after long redlights on those 106deg Mobile, AL days.

I would also recommend getting the sealing crimp splices and practice your crimps. If done correctly it will be sealed and be stronger than the actual wire.

Let me know if you need pics. I could take a few...


Marty

Yeah, If you could post pics of your install, that would be great. I usually solder my wires and use heat shrink. Especially on motor circuits and audio wires.

Shoot. Solder is even better!

I'll try to take some pics in a bit and load them... then post them and do a mini write-up.


Marty

OK

As promised. I went out and took some pics. Here is my writeup. I did it 10 months ago. So my memory is fading now. I'll try my best to write everything I can rember.


This a pic of the main setup. There is a soft rubber boot on the back half of the E-fan shroud to give it a soft seat against the radiator. You can see in the bottom right the open threads of where the origional fan clutch was bolted on.




This is the top long L-bracket that are the only bolts that hold it on. I took all of the anti-chafeing pieces and slid them to where the rad hose now sits in the cradle. You can see the bottom set of bolts on the L-bracket... they are to basically adjust how tight of a seal you want the top half of the rubber boot on the shroud/rad surface to be.





This where the mounting bracket sits on the left side...




.... and the right side....





The main power wire for the fan. The directions say to mount it directly to the battery. This wire bundle bolts directly to the battery. So it was super easy there...





There is a second power wire that has to be run. It has to be a keyed power wire meaning that it only gets power when the key is turned on. It allows the main power wire to send it's juice to the fans via internal relay I suppose. The kit came with two different size fuse attachements that slip over a fuse and allow you to connect a wire to it. I found a fuse in this fuse box by probing around in the box with a multi-meter and switching the ignition on and off...





This is the super tiny temp probe. It slips in between the rad fins. The directions say to slip it in as close to the inlet tube as possible... so the rad does not have a chance to throw the temps off...





This is the fuse. Since it is clear I ended up sticking one of those LED fuses that lights up when it's bad. Now... If I ever have any problems and am doing some troubleshooting in the dark... all I have to do is pop the hood and start the engine. I can peek through the crack from my cab and see if the fuse is blown/or if the power is cycleing in the mini computer that I'll talk about in a sec.





This is a pic of the brain/controller of the system. I ended up drilling two holes here to mount it up. The three LEDs going across the top cycle and do different things meaning different things. You can adjust the point/temp of which the fan kicks on with a jewlers screwdriver on this too. I basically took the truck for a spin and adjusted it in tiny incraments until it didn't cycle on and off continuously unless @ a redlight for a few minutes. I believe it comes on @ only 60% power and then slowly works up to 100% power over the next ten deg from where you set it. My volt gauge in my dash never moves unless sitting in a traffic jam/accident on a hot day. The lowest I ever saw it drop was to one mark below the 14V. Maybe 13.5V??? I have the stock weak alternator.


The two tiny wires on the bottom are from the temp. probe. The next two up are the main power and power control wires. The green wire coming in on the top right side... is a wire spliced into the clutch ativating/power wire on the A/C compressor. Whenever my A/C compressor cycles... so does my fan. My a/c is cooler @ redlights now believe it or not.

There are three more unused plug points @ the top I have yet to run wires for.( ) One is for a manual override ON switch. One is for a manual override OFF switch. I forget what the last one was for to be honest. The manual on and off feature is awesome. Could help out for troubleshooting... deep water fording... keeping the fans from cycleing while traveling down the interstate and using the A/C... saving electricity... and thus more fuel economy.


If you have any Qs let me know,


Marty

Dang! Looks like this site cuts out 3/4 of each of the pics I posted!!! They are only hyperlinks and don't take up space. Wonder why???

Those DO look like awesome fans. I am a little concerned about the open, non sealed terminals to that control module. That would never hold up in the winter salt air mist of Michigan roads.

You could always seal it up air tight with some RTV. I plan on doing that.... whenever I finally get around to running the wires for those switches.