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Oil Pressure Sensor

188K views 55 replies 32 participants last post by  shakenfake 
#1 ·
The oil px gauge last night all of a sudden pegged out. Check the oil and the level was good, oil was a worn so thought it could have been a clogged filter. Changed the oil/filter and still pegs out. Trying to figure out how to get to the oil px sensor/sending unit without taking the engine apart. Anyone have any tips or ideas?
Thanks
 
#2 ·
It's on the top of the block on the drivers side behind the intake. You can see with the right angle, but changing it is a lot by feel. The only thing I took off was the plastic intake cover. You need a special socket to remove it, although it's sold at most any parts store. Don't rule out the cluster as the problem. Clusters in these are known for stepper motor issues.
 

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#3 ·
tsduke is correct. The oil press gauge in my 2003 did the same thing about a year ago. I used my Snap-On diagnostic scanner to perform several "gauge sweeps" and concluded that it was indeed the oil pres sending unit. Not too fun to change; my wrist looked like a human sacrifice from scraping on the metal clamps on the fuel rail when I was done!
 
#4 ·
I know that this is an old thread, but if anyone happens to read it, I can use a bit of help. I'm replacing the oil pressure sensor in my 05 5.3L right now, and as the previous posters stated, much of this is done by feel if you're trying to avoid removing the intake manifold. I've removed the sight shield, and now I can just get my hand down to the sensor (and my forearm and wrist are already bleeding pretty profusely), but I can't tell by touch how to disconnect the sensor electrical connector. It's a bit smaller than what I expected when looking at the new sensor (or at least it feels small). I'm working at night with crappy artificial light, so I can't even visualize it very well with a mirror.

Does anyone have any hints, tricks, or a much larger illustration of the same type of connector that they could share with me? The illustration from the service manual that tsduke posted is too small and unclear for me to make out how it locks on to the sensor.

Thanks
 
#5 ·
You should be able to feel the clip around the sensor and pull it back with your fingers. I understand sometimes you can not get enough leverage in tight spaces. If you are pretty mechanicly inclined I would suggest taking off the intake manifold. I't really easy and should only add an hour or two to the job (may make it less if you can get to the sensore easier).
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the reply ASTE25. Stubbornly, I spent almost all night doing it without removing the intake manifold. Having the benefit of hindsight, I would definitely recommend removing the manifold. I ended up having to grind down the wall of a pretty expensive 27mm socket to fit snugly onto the sensor while clearing various protuberances around it. Not to mention that my hand and forearm are now also ground (like hamburger). Once I had struggled with it for about an hour, I decided that intake manifold removal was the only sane route, but it was too late to get a new gasket for it, and the factory manual explicitly warns against re-using the old gasket, so I didn't want to risk it.

Anyhow, now I'm FINISHED! The reason I'm posting this lengthy post is because I hope that the next guy/girl who searches for info re this job can benefit from my lesson.
 
#8 ·
Sorry about any confusion; I was just kind of giddy from exhausion when I wrote that last post. No, I didn't end up removing the intake manifold because it was way too late to purchase a new gasket, and I had to get the job done by morning. My point was that if I ever have to do this job again, I will definitely remove the manifold. Next time I will make sure I have a new intake manifold gasket on hand before I begin; It can always be returned, if I don't use it. Skipping that step (manifold removal) cost me at least an extra couple of hours, not to mention a pretty mangled hand and forearm.
 
#10 ·
2007 GMC Sierra (NBS)

Removed the plastic cover, changed Oil Pressure Switch in about 20 minutes, all by feel, have X-Large hands, scraped up a bit, but managed.

Tools: All 3/8" drive,,, Oil Pressure Switch Socket 1-1/16", 6" extension, u-joint, ratchet. U-joint on top of socket.
(I was prepared with several lengths of extensions, and a rocker adapter, but didn't need them.)

No way I would take off the intake manifold!

Thanks for the info!
 
#12 ·
I would agree with chamuco, NO WAY would I remove my intake manifold for this job on my 2005 1500. I'm more of a tractor wantabe mechanic than a truck technician. I did buy the correct socket at my local auto parts store for around $11 and had the job done in around 30 minutes. I don't even see any blood, yes a couple of scrapes, plus I'm 65 years old. I did not use a universal joint the 3/8 estension I had allowed me to come straight up, allowing better control and efficient use of torque. I really appreciate some starting this thread. It saved me a lot of time and money.
 
#14 ·
Hi i'm currently having the same issue with my 2006 5.3. my oil pressure gauge being pegged out. It is pegged out with the key turned on and also with the engine running... Now theres no change in the way the engine is running (seems to run just fine). i know it could be the sending unit or in the instrument cluster. I was just wandering which one to go after first or which one i could rule out. Thanks.
 
#15 ·
@jdun026
The sending unit is 45 $ @ autozone. Its roughly 200 $ to fix ur cluster. I would recommend replacing it. I had the same prob. Deep socket 1"1/16" deep socket. I had to shave mine down because the walls wer too thick. Reach back ther and its all done by feel. Definitley do not need to remove int manifold. (Dumbasses ) hope this helps.
 
#20 ·
I agree with not removing the manifold. If possible, take a mirror and light, and take a look, so you know what you're dealing with. It's kind of tough seeing it at first, but once you get the right angle with the mirror, you can see it perfect. Reach down and unhook the electrical connector. Just feel for the clip and pull it up with your finger. It should pop right off. Either use a 27mm socket or buy the one made for it. First, put a universal on the socket. Next, put the socket on the sender by feel. You'll then need a 6" extension. Slide it up between the two hoses (one might be some wires with the plastic guard) and stick it into the universal. You're then straight up and down and a ratchet easily fits on it. Just install in the reverse order. Doing this will take you about 15-20 minutes.

The reason I had to change mine was because it was leaking oil pretty good. I was having to add a quart of oil every 1000 miles.

Now I'm waiting for my Truetrac to get here because my G80 blew up Thursday.
 
#21 ·
Hey guys. Just got done changing the unit. Gmac u were right on the money. 1 1/16 deep socket, 6 inch extension, and a universal. Done all by feel. Took 10 mins, just can't get in a rush. I think that's where most people go wrong. Great advise on NOT taking intake off. Definitely NO need for that what so ever. Anyways. Gauge is reading normal pressure. Good to go. Thanks a lot guys.
 
#23 ·
jdun026 said:
Hey guys. Just got done changing the unit. Gmac u were right on the money. 1 1/16 deep socket, 6 inch extension, and a universal. Done all by feel. Took 10 mins, just can't get in a rush. I think that's where most people go wrong. Great advise on NOT taking intake off. Definitely NO need for that what so ever. Anyways. Gauge is reading normal pressure. Good to go. Thanks a lot guys.
Your very welcome jdun026 glad too be a service. Great to hear we could help.
 
#25 ·
IT is a shame GM customers continue to be plagued with this problem. I have a 2005 Corvette this happened to and a 2003 Silverado. Why can't they fix this problem? I know this is really a small thing, but apparently no one from GM cares. This is not an easy fix on a Corvette at all.
 
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