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rear main seal replacement

rear main seal replacement

Postby racin38 [OP] » Mar 19 2011, 6:54pm

Anybody have any idea how many hours this job takes? Bigger job than i want to tackle myself, so am looking for an hours estimate to prepare myself for the bill
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Related Topics  Oil pan and rear main seal gasket replacement   Rear Main Seal   94 Silverado Rear Main Seal   Reinstalling Engine Rear Seal Housing & Oil Pan   Front Crank Seal   To use K-Seal or not: oil & coolant loss   5.3 engine replacement   Need a replacement engine?   Valve cover replacement   09' With AFM Lifter Replacement ???'s   Engine replacement question   Engine replacement options?   2005 engine replacement   Replacement OE plugs different than stock 
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Re: rear main seal replacement

Postby morganw » Mar 20 2011, 5:24am

I'd say it pays 4 hours. The tranny has to be separated from the engine so it is a little time consuming.
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Re: rear main seal replacement

Postby WingNut » Mar 20 2011, 5:28am

You're going to pass up an opportunity to share some quality time with a 12er and a couple of buddies? Welcome aboard BTW.
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Re: rear main seal replacement

Postby GMCRoss » Apr 11 2011, 8:04pm

yes, it takes around 4 to 5 hours about at a shop, they just did mine under warranty.
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Re: rear main seal replacement

Postby great08 » Apr 12 2011, 2:13am

I was just looking @ mine on my 5.3 before I dropped in the engine. Looks like you would have to seperate the bell housing/transmission... and remove the trans. more than likely as stated earlier.

That means battery, starter, trans. dipstick, trans. oil lines, prop. shaft(or shafts if 4wd), flywheel, and tq converter bolts will have to be undone. Some of them bolts @ the top of the bellhousing will be a pain to get to. The seal itself looked as though it would be pretty painless and quick though.

It would take me a lot more than 4 hrs to do... but I don't have the same experience or tools a real shop would have. Plus I like to go slow and take my time if it is the first time doing something. Usually if you have done the same job several times... you take around 1/4 to 1/8th the time to do it compared to the first time. Just because there is no more learning curve/caution/etc to climb your way through.

Swapping an engine is 19hrs on the books @ the dealer. A rear main seal should be a lot less.
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Re: rear main seal replacement

Postby klownr02 » Jun 27 2012, 2:46am

Removal Procedure for Crankshaft Oil Seal
•Remove the automatic transmission flexplate, refer to Automatic Transmission Flex Plate Replacement .
•Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seal (141).

Installation Procedure

Important For proper orientation, note the installation direction of the oil seal. The oil seal is a reverse-lip design. The part number is applied to the outside face of the seal, as shown.
•Inspect the seal and identify the part number markings for proper orientation.

•Install the J 41479 cone (2) and bolts onto the rear of the crankshaft.
•Tighten the bolts until snug. Do not overtighten.
•Install the rear oil seal onto the tapered cone (2) and push the seal to the rear seal bore. Install the oil seal with the part number markings facing away from the engine.
•Thread the J 41479 threaded rod into the tapered cone until the tool (1) contacts the oil seal.
•Align the oil seal into the tool (1).
•Rotate the handle of the tool (1) clockwise until the seal enters the rear cover and bottoms into the cover bore.
•Remove the J 41479 .
•Install the automatic transmission flexplate, refer to Automatic Transmission Flex Plate Replacement .

Removal of Transmission
•Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection .
•Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
•Remove the rear propeller shaft. Refer to One-Piece Propeller Shaft Replacement or Two-Piece Propeller Shaft Replacement .
•Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
•Remove the transmission crossmember. Refer to Transmission Support Crossmember Replacement .
•Remove the transmission mount. Refer to Transmission Mount Replacement .
•Remove the catalytic converter pipe. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement .
• If the vehicle is equipped with a transfer case, remove the front propeller shaft. Refer to Front Propeller Shaft Replacement .

•Remove the torque converter access plug.

•Remove the left flywheel inspection cover.
•Remove the starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement .

•Remove the right flywheel inspection cover.

•Remove the flywheel to torque converter bolts.
•Lower the transmission to gain access to the top and sides of the transmission.

•Disconnect the vent tube hose and the electrical connections from the transfer case, if equipped.
•Remove the transfer case, if equipped. Refer to the appropriate procedure:

Transfer Case Assembly Replacement for the MP 1222/1225/1226-NQG transfer case
Transfer Case Assembly Replacement for the MP 1625/1626-NQF transfer case
Transfer Case Assembly Replacement for the MP 3023/3024-NQH transfer case

•Remove the 2 bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission.
•Remove the transmission heat shield.
•Remove the range selector cable from the transmission. Refer to Automatic Transmission Range Selector Lever Cable Replacement .

•Disconnect the transmission vent hose.

•Disconnect park/neutral position switch connector (2).
•Remove the wire harness (1) from the bracket.

•Disconnect the main electrical connector (1) and vehicle speed sensor (2) from the transmission.

•Remove the bolt that secures the fuel line bracket to the left side of the transmission.

•Remove the nut that secures the fuel line bracket to the transmission torque converter housing.

•Disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines from the transmission. Refer to Transmission Fluid Cooler Hose/Pipe Quick-Connect Fitting Disconnection and Connection .
•Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.

•Remove the stud and the bolt securing the transmission to the engine.

•Remove the 6 studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine.
•Pull the transmission straight back.
•Install the J 21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter.
•Remove the transmission from the vehicle while simultaneously removing the fluid level indicator tube.
•Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines if necessary. Refer to Transmission Fluid Cooler Flushing and Flow Test .

Im goin to attempt this keeping the transfer attached and just dropping it far enough away from the engine to get to the Rear Oil Seal Housing and Seal itself. Good Luck
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Re: rear main seal replacement

Postby Lflsjet » Jun 28 2012, 12:48am

This truck with an auto we would charge 8-9 hours all day long.
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Re: rear main seal replacement

Postby ASTE25 » Jun 28 2012, 1:40am

I can do one on a 4WD in my shop on a lift and with all the tools that make it "easy" in about 8 hours (maybe a little less if everything goes right). Doing it yourself, on the ground without all the good tools will eat a weekend up. I'm not sure what the actual labor rate time to do the job is.
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Re: rear main seal replacement

Postby 2003Z71 » Jun 28 2012, 5:01am

I'm taking my 2003 into the only dealer I trust next Thursday to have the RM seal replaced. I was going to do it myself but A. I don't have the time and B. I really don't want to screw with it, when and if it leaks again it's not my problem. They quoted me about $700 bucks and need to keep the truck overnight.
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rear main seal replacement

Postby Machster69 » Jun 28 2012, 1:56pm

Yikes:/ bet you can goto the local trans shop and they beat that #
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