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RX/Tracy Lewis Oil Catch Can Install 2011 Silverado

How Do I install this thing?

Re: RX/Tracy Lewis Oil Catch Can Install 2011 Silverado

Postby Oscyjack » Jul 11 2016, 4:03pm

Oscyjack wrote:It's very simple. Locate the <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=pcv+valve+hose" title="Link added by VigLink" class="vglnk"><span>PCV </span><span>hose</span></a>, and pop it off. Then mount catch can. Then route the new heater hose from the PCV outlet (crankcase) to the catch can inlet, secure with clamps. From the outlet of the can run another section of hose to the inlet of the PCV (intake). You're taking off a short hose, and replacing it with a longer version with a can in the middle. The process is the same for every year 5.3, but the PCV may be located elsewhere, but its the same concept.

Literally thousands of posts on installation if you run a search


I searched hard, I really did. Everything that had detailed information and pictures was for the old style can with two fittings. All the ones I found for the three fitting style can all involved turbo setups.[/quote]


You may have the wrong can. Should only have 1 inlet and 1 outlet. Could be wrong though. $380 is nuts. Nice piece, but that's a lot of money. I still recommend the CP HE can, best performance per dollar which is what i'm all about haha
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Re: RX/Tracy Lewis Oil Catch Can Install 2011 Silverado

Postby 80zfreak [OP] » Jul 11 2016, 4:11pm

Yeah, when I bought the catch can I didn't really research as hard as I should have, probably could have spent a lot less money. I just seen that the RX can catches all of the oil vapors with the dual valve system so thats what I went with.
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Re: RX/Tracy Lewis Oil Catch Can Install 2011 Silverado

Postby Oscyjack » Jul 11 2016, 4:15pm

Might have to return it. There are 3 options that work very well. The RX, the elite engineering, and the CP HE. The latter was my personal choice for many reasons (and it's $170)
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Re: RX/Tracy Lewis Oil Catch Can Install 2011 Silverado

Postby BigBlueLB756 » Jul 11 2016, 5:34pm

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Re: RX/Tracy Lewis Oil Catch Can Install 2011 Silverado

Postby ferraiolo1 » Jul 11 2016, 5:39pm

"Specially Designed for:

Naturally Aspirated High Output (Heavily Modified)

High-Output Applications with Over 15 lbs of Boost

Winter Months with Temperatures below 45°F

All Types of Forced Induction Vehicles"

Might be better off returning it and getting an elite for less than half the price of the one you bought.
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Re: RX/Tracy Lewis Oil Catch Can Install 2011 Silverado

Postby Oscyjack » Jul 11 2016, 5:48pm

Or the non forced induction version, or the CP
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Re: RX/Tracy Lewis Oil Catch Can Install 2011 Silverado

Postby Tuner Boost » Jul 11 2016, 6:57pm

Here are the instructions for a NA ls based V8 2013 and prior full sized truck:

The LS based GM trucks you can mount the can on either the brake booster stud as the 2014 and up, or to the alternator/power steering bracket. Both use the Long L bracket for this. Some also choose to mount in the location a second battery would be.

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You will look on the driver side of the intake manifold app. 1/2 way back towards the top of the intake manifold there should be a black hard plastic line that attaches to the rear of the drivers side valve cover. This is how the stock PCV system dirty, or foul side evacuates from the crankcase into the intake manifold. You can remove that hard line completely or cut it in the middle and slip hose over the cut ends. The center of the can with no checkvalve goes directly to the barb on the rear of the driverside valve cover. One outlet from the can with checkvalve flowing away from the can will connect to the barb on the intake manifold (or the portion of hard line left connected to it if you cut the line).

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The second outer fitting on the can w/checkvalve flowing away from the can will run to a barb (included in kit) that you install into the air bridge just in front of the throttle body. That completes the dirty, or foul side f the system.

For the cleanside, we move to the passenger side valve cover. On the front inside of the valve cover is a barb that comes out 90* and has a tube/line that runs from it to the main air bridge assy. You remove this line and cap the valve cover barb with the included 516" cap and then replace the stock oil fill cap with the billet clean side separator. You then run a hose from the barb on it to the main intake air bridge where the original line connected when stock.

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This now covers the complete installation. The 2 outlets on the can and checkvalves will automatically default to the strongest suction source available providing full time evacuation suction and the cleanside unit will trap oil from back-flowing into the throttle body.


Those wanting a inexpensive alternative, search for the "cheap catchcan" on here. A air/water filter from a air compressor will hardly prevent the issues caused by the ingestion. The fuel savings alone pays for a proper system over time (in fleet applications on average in 5.7 months).

You cannot buy a more effective system than what the OP got.

OP, let me know if I can be of more assistance.
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Re: RX/Tracy Lewis Oil Catch Can Install 2011 Silverado

Postby 80zfreak [OP] » Jul 12 2016, 11:03pm

So just to be sure, I'm supposed to drill a new hole and put a barbed fitting in right in front of the throttle body?
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Re: RX/Tracy Lewis Oil Catch Can Install 2011 Silverado

Postby vkh » Jul 13 2016, 2:29am

Hi 80zfreak,Here is some pics of my install with the help of Tuner Boost.214642214634214626214658.The clean side separator hose was changed to a longer one because it sometime the hose would kink .Show us your pics after.I was also supposed to drill a hole into intake tube but it was winter at the time and i thought the plastic would crack.
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Re: RX/Tracy Lewis Oil Catch Can Install 2011 Silverado

Postby Copperhead » Jul 13 2016, 2:45am

Oscyjack wrote:Might have to return it. There are 3 options that work very well. The RX, the elite engineering, and the CP HE. The latter was my personal choice for many reasons (and it's $170)


Well, to be fair, his does have the clean side along with the catch can. But he still could have had a Elite Engineering E2 can and clean side for about $100 less. Elite E2 can is $190 with shipping and if one opts for the clean side, it adds $99 to the price. So a complete E2 can clean side setup is $289 shipped.

I have a CP HE setup on my 2015 2500HD 6.0L, and a Elite E2 on my 2006 Cadillac CTS 3.6L. If you saw the amount of oil that flows thru the 3.6L PCV, you would understand why I got the larger capacity E2 for it. Nothing discussed on the threads in this forum seems to come close to the oil problem of the 3.6L. Mine captures 1-1.5 oz of oil every 100 miles on average from the 3.6L PCV line.
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