The equivalent Elite can would be the E2-X system, and then add the cleanside for a comparable price. When looking at comparisons one most look at what is included. The Tracy Lewis signature series from Jeg's, etc. includes over $100 of AN fittings standard, and the 2 billet checkvalves (all extra in most others) as well as a high quality 1/4 turn checkvalve for draining (compare at $15-20 at a hardware store, etc.) and the cleanside is standard as well, so a good value if you actually compare. That and there is no more effective system on the market at even over $1000.
You need to utilize 2 of the special checkvalves to have the correct system, and if you do not add the secondary evacuation suction side to the area just upstream of the TB, you are only evacuating during idle, cruise and deceleration. No evacuation takes place during acceleration or wide open throttle otherwise, and this is when the contaminates entering as blow-by settle and mix with the engine oil. This is also when a standard system will allow pressure to build in the crankcase, and that is never good.
Most that know me on here know I am always accurate and also have assisted in helping others make their own effective home-made units.
Especially when you are talking a GDI engine like the 3.6L GM V6. When you use a separator, no matter how effective and do not make provisions for the secondary evacuation suction source, oil ingests into the intake air charge through the clean side line on the drivers side valve cover into the main intake air assy, and this still causes coking and the knock retard one is trying to prevent.
The system the OP has will result in a 1-3 MPG improvement in highway fuel economy as the oil is stopped and knock retard causing detonation is reduced as well as in app 1/2 the cases, excessive oil consumption issues are reversed or corrected completely if they are caused by build-up on the piston rings and ring grooves. The only proper way to address all points of ingestion into the intake air charge, the dual checkvalve system with cleanside must be used or you can catch all of this "gunk" in a dirty side unit and still have the same issues this ingestion causes.
Very few ever take the time to fully understand all that is involved in proper crankcase evacuation, and all that the PCV system does to keep an engine alive and as wear free as possible for the long run. Only one function is pollution control related, all the rest is to remove the contaminants that cause most engine wear before they can settle and mix with the engine oil. And the PCV system has 2 critical parts, the clean or fresh side where incoming MAF metered fresh air enters one portion of the crankcase to make up for and flush the foul or dirty side contaminates out of the opposite portion of the crankcase. Most PCV systems only use intake manifold vacuum for this evacuation suction, but this disappears when accelerating or running WOT as the cam lobe overlap allows reversion pulses to travel back up the intake runners canceling any usable vacuum. These pulses do not travels past the throttle body until well over 8,000 RPM so the area just in front of the TB mouth will provide sufficient suction to continue evacuation when accelerating.
One other thing to be aware of if running a 3.6L GM V6, until the 2014 model year when the LFX version of the 3.6 change from the black plastic valve covers to the cast aluminum units, the PCV fixed orifice barb located in the passenger side valve cover had far too restrictive of sized holes and this was not sufficient to allow the CFM of flow needed to properly evacuate the crankcase. This results in pressure on the crankcase at all times except idle and deceleration. It is critical that this be removed from the valve cover and the top hole drilled to 1/8" and the 2 bottom holes to 5/64" each. Here is what most look like at 40-50k miles:
If anyone has any tech related questions on any of this, please ask.
Also, to see the value of the AN fittings alone,
here is the same on Summits site:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-209006-bl
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-481606-bl
Add these 3 each to the drain ball valve and the $30 worth of billet checkvalves and you can easily see why they are the price they are.