what CAI do you recommend for my 6.2L Silverado? I have been looking at the K N , Volant, and AFE as possibilities....Does anyone have this same setup and if ...

Decrease AIR !! This flies in the face of what is sold out there today, but if you can decrease the amount of air entering the engine (due to the fact that this is a closed loop system as of 1996 OBD2) you will use less fuel, too. Ideally, you want to maintain the same horsepower required to combat air friction, rolling mass losses, etc...but do it with LESS AIR !!

Let me illustrate. A closed loop system maintains the air fuel ratio at 14.7 lbs air to 1 lb of fuel. This is maintained for idle, cruise and in some cases, even at wide open throttle.

If you have 60 grams/sec air entering the engine at cruise, you're using 4.08 grams of fuel per second. If the cylinder pressures are increased without creating harmful exhaust byproducts, or if these byproducts are controlled by the catalytic converter, we can gain mileage by decreasing airflow through the engine while enhancing the spark curve to maintain the same rear wheel HP.

On the chassis dyno, we can get vehicles down to 45-50 grams air/sec maintaining the same air fuel ratio, and same wheel HP as stock--and the overall result is less fuel consumed ! 45 g/secs works out to 3.06 g/fuel used in the same time period--or an almost 25% saving. We can't gain this in all vehicles of course--this example was resultant data from a 2007 6.0L HD 3500 GM truck.

This flies in the face of every aftermarket product out there claiming that it saves fuel--you will never gain mileage by increasing airflow through a gasoline engine in a mass airflow type system.

Because we carefully remap the spark curve with a remapped ECU, we in effect are increasing cylinder pressure without adding fuel. Increased cylinder pressure translates into more useable torque and power to maintain the power required for 'rolling resistance' of the vehicle down the road. The increase in horsepower often results in better fuel economy--although we do not guarantee mileage gains--as we cannot determine how YOU drive, and what your driving habits are.

Diesels are a different story...we need to stuff as much air in the cylinder as possible--and create maximum cylinder pressure at diesel injection point, use all the heat energy created to maximize pressure while keeping the total combustion event in the cylinder prior to exhaust valve opening. Smoke is wasted energy...in reality, diesels can actually run as low as 100lbs of air to 1 lb of fuel--although there's not enough heat energy created at that ratio. There's no magic air fuel ratio for diesel--leaner operation does not create damage, it just won't make power.

Therefore, you need a balance of fuel, best boost and proper timing to make the diesel efficient.

Lyndon Wester, Owner Westers Garage
Check http://www.epa.gov for fuel mileage hoaxes.

Z15 wrote:The computer controls the amount of air the engine will use so no air filter or CAI is going to increase mileage.

Decrease AIR !! This flies in the face of what is sold out there today, but if you can decrease the amount of air entering the engine (due to the fact that this is a closed loop system as of 1996 OBD2) you will use less fuel, too. Ideally, you want to maintain the same horsepower required to combat air friction, rolling mass losses, etc...but do it with LESS AIR !!

Let me illustrate. A closed loop system maintains the air fuel ratio at 14.7 lbs air to 1 lb of fuel. This is maintained for idle, cruise and in some cases, even at wide open throttle.

If you have 60 grams/sec air entering the engine at cruise, you're using 4.08 grams of fuel per second. If the cylinder pressures are increased without creating harmful exhaust byproducts, or if these byproducts are controlled by the catalytic converter, we can gain mileage by decreasing airflow through the engine while enhancing the spark curve to maintain the same rear wheel HP.

On the chassis dyno, we can get vehicles down to 45-50 grams air/sec maintaining the same air fuel ratio, and same wheel HP as stock--and the overall result is less fuel consumed ! 45 g/secs works out to 3.06 g/fuel used in the same time period--or an almost 25% saving. We can't gain this in all vehicles of course--this example was resultant data from a 2007 6.0L HD 3500 GM truck.

This flies in the face of every aftermarket product out there claiming that it saves fuel--you will never gain mileage by increasing airflow through a gasoline engine in a mass airflow type system.

Because we carefully remap the spark curve with a remapped ECU, we in effect are increasing cylinder pressure without adding fuel. Increased cylinder pressure translates into more useable torque and power to maintain the power required for 'rolling resistance' of the vehicle down the road. The increase in horsepower often results in better fuel economy--although we do not guarantee mileage gains--as we cannot determine how YOU drive, and what your driving habits are.

Diesels are a different story...we need to stuff as much air in the cylinder as possible--and create maximum cylinder pressure at diesel injection point, use all the heat energy created to maximize pressure while keeping the total combustion event in the cylinder prior to exhaust valve opening. Smoke is wasted energy...in reality, diesels can actually run as low as 100lbs of air to 1 lb of fuel--although there's not enough heat energy created at that ratio. There's no magic air fuel ratio for diesel--leaner operation does not create damage, it just won't make power.

Therefore, you need a balance of fuel, best boost and proper timing to make the diesel efficient.

Lyndon Wester, Owner Westers Garage
Check http://www.epa.gov for fuel mileage hoaxes.

Take a look at the Injen system. I used them before and I think they are the best made as far as looks and quality, no cheap plastics in them.