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2003 Silverado caliper stick

2003 Silverado caliper stick

Postby Allendelosa [OP] » Jan 18 2020, 7:24pm

I bought this truck in July (4 wheel disc), when I bought it she needs brake work so I put all new brake lines throughout and a new brake booster. I drove it for about 2 months and the pedal started feeling like crap. I ruled it down to the master cylinder and bench bled a new one and put it on. Ran fine for about 3 days and then as I would drive the pedal would get rock hard and feel like it was holding me back like the caliper was sticking. I got out and the brakes just stunk from the back. I drove it more and realized it only does it after they get warmed up and if I jam in the pedal it goes away for a few mins. Then one day my pedal went right to the floor. I jacked it up and both wheels spin fine in the rear and there is no sticking. I don’t see any leaks and I am at a loss. Should I change rotors and calipers in the back? Calipers are stock and rotors and pad are decently new.
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Re: 2003 Silverado caliper stick

Postby nealinator » Jan 19 2020, 2:13am

Is the brake fluid level in the reservoir staying full?
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Re: 2003 Silverado caliper stick

Postby FoxProDenali » Jan 19 2020, 3:21am

Did you check the pistons and pins on each caliper?

Hard pedal obviously means stuck.

Mush pedal means air or leak.
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Re: 2003 Silverado caliper stick

Postby Allendelosa [OP] » Jan 19 2020, 6:38am

Yep, both pistons compress fine and don’t stick when I jack it up. Pins are good. It’s only when it gets warm I’m thinking I should drive it around for a while and then jack it up.
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Re: 2003 Silverado caliper stick

Postby Zrock » Jan 19 2020, 6:08pm

sure your getting the right master and not getting one for a drum rear? Also have you checked the length of the push rod between master and booster? someone may have put the wrong one in being to short or to long.. Possible the booster is starting to fail causing things to stick... Have you cracked the bleeders and checked condition of fluid?
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Re: 2003 Silverado caliper stick

Postby Allendelosa [OP] » Jan 19 2020, 6:14pm

It’s definitely the right master and all the fluid has been flushed and is new. I’m not really familiar with pushrod length but wouldn’t that effect the front brakes too? The front brakes are fine. Could it be a proportioning valve error.?
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Re: 2003 Silverado caliper stick

Postby RivGuy » Jan 20 2020, 11:48am

Allendelosa wrote:It’s definitely the right master and all the fluid has been flushed and is new. I’m not really familiar with pushrod length but wouldn’t that effect the front brakes too? The front brakes are fine. Could it be a proportioning valve error.?


Yes it could be a proportioning valve issue. But you'll be able to tell if you loosen the bleeder screw on the right rear caliper first and have someone depress the brake pedal for you. If you get a strong steady stream then it's not a proportioning valve issue.
While you have an assistant and the rear wheels off the ground check the left side next.

Also you said the pistons are moving freely and the pins are cleaned and lubed allowing the pads to move freely. Is that correct. Have you removed the pads and pins to clean and lube.?

Have you removed the calipers and wire brushed the parts that are meant to slide as well as cleaned and lubed the stainless sliders. You need to use what is sold as brake caliper lube or if you don't have any then some yellow brake lube can be used temporarily.

I would remove the front calipers also and wire brush and clean all the points that allow it to slide properly then lube them also. Get a small tube of caliper lube from the auto parts store. Put just the pads in the caliper and press the brake pedal slowly to be sure that the pistons on all 4 of the calipers are able to slide out smoothly and then use the tool to compress the pistons back in the bore to be sure they move back in smoothly with no binding. You need to observe them closely.
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Re: 2003 Silverado caliper stick

Postby Walkers » Jan 20 2020, 6:02pm

In the last 10 years I have seen a huge increase in the number of problems arising from new import master cylinders. I would likely take that back and be sure to get an OEM.
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