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Brakes 101 - Class is in!

Re: Brakes 101 - Class is in!

Postby pblakey » Jun 16 2017, 3:57am

Wow! Now that was a GOOD read! Thanks for sharing!
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Combustion on 3 pistons [L2]
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Re: Brakes 101 - Class is in!

Postby WilliamBos » Jul 09 2017, 9:10pm

Did the front brakes on my 2011 Sierra back in April, splurged for Ceramic pads and rotors. All I can say is the extra money they cost is worth it.

Excited to see how they perform here in the salt belt during the winter months.

No more cheap brakes for me again.

I had the brake fluid flushed last fall, the difference in stopping was obvious.
Thanks,
Will
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Re: Brakes 101 - Class is in!

Postby bob393 » Sep 03 2017, 2:34am

Well have to say this may be the best thread I have ever read, concise, well written, and to the point with tons of real world information. I have always done my own brake work and fluid changes and I picked up many new things hear. Thank you for taking the time to write it.
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Re: Brakes 101 - Class is in!

Postby Zrock » Sep 03 2017, 3:39am

I make it a habit to flush the system completely when changing components. No point in putting new parts on with old fluid..

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Re: Brakes 101 - Class is in!

Postby Old Barney » Sep 25 2017, 3:03am

Great explanation! I would like to see every dealer read this.
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Re: Brakes 101 - Class is in!

Postby Zrock » Sep 25 2017, 3:10am

Old Barney wrote:Great explanation! I would like to see every dealer read this.
Allot of the time it's the tech that needs to step up and do the job right... I know allot of techs that will tell both the service writer and the customer. This is the way it's going to get done and it's going to cost a few$ extra to do it right.. if you don't like it take your car somewhere else.. in all the years as a service writer in only seen 1 person walk out... these were also the tech's I would back up 100% because they were doing the job right

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Re: Brakes 101 - Class is in!

Postby Girth » Jul 01 2018, 10:32pm

Sure, I'll revive an old thread. It's a sticky, and I'm a noob here, so that's expected of me right? :lol:

I'd like to complain about this thread though. The OP hasn't logged in for over 4yrs, and he STILL guilt tripped me into ordering more parts. :lol: Lots of good info though, at least it got me thinking. I WAS just gonna slap new pads and rotors on the front of the Sierra, but what the hell...... new lines, and caliper pistons/seals/hardware on the way now too. Truck has 118k on it, but we have only owned it for a few months. Dealer said the fronts were "low", but I hadn't thought anything of it until I was under it a couple months later changin the oil. Inside surface of the rotors has some "uneven" wear, so something isn't right. Time to really tear into it I guess. :roll: Get that done, then I get to turn to the Burban. Now that it's running again, I noticed the brakes intermittently surge coming to a stop. :?
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Re: Brakes 101 - Class is in!

Postby Badbird2000 » Aug 02 2018, 5:52pm

What do you use to bleed the brakes? I have seen the systems you fill with fresh fluid, and screw the cap onto the top of the brake fluid container, then work from the rear back to the front at each wheel. Are those dependable?
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Re: Brakes 101 - Class is in!

Postby Plaayboi1 » Aug 19 2018, 8:52am

I noticed that too Girth, the OP was a smart guy that contributed the most detailed description and facts that i have seen on any forum post ever but the fact that he hasn't been on for 4+ years is a little worrying since we have people other than him asking for info that we struggle to provide them. i sincerely hope the OP will return and grace us with more information and some video tutorials soon!
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Re: Brakes 101 - Class is in!

Postby sgjii » Dec 04 2018, 4:14pm

I am a big fan of the Motive Products bleeder. Looks like a small bug sprayer with a pump handle, pressure gauge and custom caps to fit various master cylinders. Retails around $65 for the unit and one cap. I have ordered extra caps to fit my whole fleet. I flush annually and when I do repairs, it has paid for itself a million fold. Well... I exaggerated a little at a million, but you get the point. http://www.motiveproducts.com

I use a syringe to pull as much old fluid out of the master cylinder as possible, refill the reservoir with fresh DOT4 fluid, fill the Motive with fresh DOT4, pressurize to 10lbs and start working my way from the farthest to closest corner from the master cylinder. In the typical US, Left Hand drive vehicle, this sequence is Pass Rear, Driver Rear, Pass Front, Driver Front. Usually two trips around the vehicle looking for nothing but fresh golden fluid and no bubbles. Oh, I also use their catch bottle with a clear hose so I can see the fluid quality and watch for bubbles.

I have had one for about 8years and wish I had bought one sooner.
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