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Touch up wax

Re: Touch up wax

Postby ricka182 » Jan 21 2021, 8:54pm

Clay will remove any protection you apply, maybe not 100%, but it won't leave it alone either...ceramic is a bit tougher, but it could still be affected.

Terms used are also confusing. A compound is a polish, and both are corrective items. Compounds are typically more tough and do more "damaging" correction, meaning out of light, medium and heavy level polishes, a true compound is closest to heavy, and most vehicles would need that sort of correction.

Protection can be wax, sealant, and/or ceramic...and some people just use simple SiO2 quick sprays, but that is a very poor mans method, which only makes you poorer because you have to apply it so often. Those are really best used as a "quick wax" spray, but for a ceramic treated vehicle, but you don't need a full ceramic job to be done to use one. But you wouldn't use a basic quick wax on a sealant finished paint.

Going back...was 2017 the last time you did paint correction? If so, you need to do it again very likely.

If that's where you are now, this would be methodology and steps..

Rinse with hose - removes any loose debris
Wash with lots of foam - cleans the paint.. using a pressure washer foamer works better IMO, as it loosens up more dirt, so you can use much lighter pressure when using a wash mitt. Always rinse the mitt off from one panel to another. I never used a 2-bucket system or grit guard though, and didn't see much effect negatively.
Clay - With the paint still water wet, put your fingers or tiny hand in a ziploc bag, and lightly run them over the paint. You'll feel the imperfections embedded in the paint, ans the clay will remove those. If not, the buffer could remove them, and then you're really scratching it up badly, and you'd never know until you rinse and dry...and curse maybe. You can use old school clay, works well enough. But it's a paint to use. Nanoskin makes a few products that work just as well IMO, and if you drop the Nanoskin, you can rinse it off. Drop clay, the whole piece is trash. Be sure to use plenty of clay lube spray...soapy water can work as well...but you just rinsed all of the soap off, right?
Rinse with clean water...not hose water, unless you're hose water is crystal clear with no minerals. I use 2-3 gallons of store brand "spring" water...distilled would be better, but also a lot more money. Really, deionized water would be best, but no one can afford that...lol I do this only with a correction job also, once paint is protected, water should bead off and dry on it's own. Not required, but it doesn't hurt IMO, and I did see better dry paint right before I started the actual correction...
Paint Correction - Compounds...don't use them IMO. If you only have swirls and basic clear coat mars, a simple med-low polish like Meguiars M210 is good enough...use the right pad as well, and you need at least 3 pads for a full size truck. This is because product builds up in the pad, and can alter how it performs. I use a thinner pad, lets more heat out, and when doing this, heat is bad...mmmmkay? If only doing one polish, do one panel at a time, and it's ok to overlap a bit from one to the next. Don't get polish on plastic trim, it can be removed, but it sucks. Once all paint is corrected, use a 50/50 IPA solution and wipe down all panels...don't soak them, just a simple wipe to remove polishing oils.
Protect - Did you use both wax and sealant? Not needed if you did, but it doesn't hurt. Wax gives more a warm showroom/concourse type glow, sealant gives a cold mirror like reflection, same as ceramics. Confirm how long it can stay on before needing to be removed, then apply one panel at a time. The Wolfgang I used only needs 15-20, but I do the full truck and apply it everywhere, then take a 5-10 break for more beer, then the stuff just wipes off like dust. 12-18 cure time while dry, and it's done.

Ok, so now that I have given you too much information, to answer your actual question... I like to use the water beading test...Look at how water beds when just done...when you notice it's not doing it as well, time to reapply the protection product. You shouldn't have any scratches to correct if you wash correctly, but if you do, you go back to the polish step only and no need for claying again.

Once done, keep it clean, and apply a weekly quick wax wipe down to prolong the protection and beading effect.

stuff, I need a beer after this post...lol Actually, I need a beer after chasing my new puppy all over...lol
2006 Silverado 1500
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