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GDI Intake Valve Cleaning (walnut shells)

Re: Intake valve cleaning

Postby Coldman87 [OP] » Jun 01 2019, 8:03pm

19trax95 wrote:No. Ecotec is the newer direct injected motors that started in 2014 for the trucks with the k2xx body style.

Your 2012 would be the vortec.

Do the vortec series motors not have direct injection ?
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Re: Intake valve cleaning

Postby ferraiolo1 » Jun 01 2019, 8:46pm

No


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Re: Intake valve cleaning

Postby Copperhead » Jun 02 2019, 3:28am

My 2500 is a vortex 6.0, but I have a 2017 Equinox with the 2.4 LEA which is GDI. I use the CRC cleaner on it at just about 10,000 mile intervals. The 2.4 is such a sweet motor to work on and do the little preventative measures like this. I can have throttle body off, cleaned, and back on in 10 minutes. I just drilled a hole in the air intake plenum right before the throttle body and use the CRC straw to shoot spurts of it in. Then I just put a screw in the hole in the plenum to seal things back up.

Whether one uses CRC, BG, Seafoam, or whatever, the key is to stay on top of the intake and valves on a GDI motor. Decide what cleaning interval you can live with and stick to it. Stick to the directions for use on the product you go with. Any intake/valve cleaner that has Polyether Amine (PEA) as it primary ingredient will do the best job. PEA is a well established, high quality cleaning agent. The best fuel additives also use PEA as their primary ingredient.

CRC Intake valve cleaner uses PEA. For fuel additives, Amsoil, Techron, Gumout, etc use PEA.
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Re: Intake valve cleaning

Postby truckdad15 » Feb 19 2020, 2:56pm

I found this thread on a search and see it's a bit old, but I'd thought I'd chime in to contribute, since I'm having to clean the valves on my 2015 truck AGAIN in 86k miles..

I did a chemical cleaning the first time around w/ BG and intake removal - having decent success I guess, but I never felt that they got as clean as they could have been. Soooo, this time around, I'm doing the walnut shell blasting gig to see if I can get the ports and valves bare-metal clean.

1. I just bought a port adapter like this from Ebay; https://www.ebay.com/itm/GMC-Chevy-Inta ... Sw~RldO3EY

2. A small blaster kit like this from Harbor Freight; https://www.harborfreight.com/40-lb-pre ... 68992.html

3. 50 lb. bag of walnut shells from Harbor Freight as well; https://www.harborfreight.com/25-lbs-co ... 92150.html

I've got about $210 bux in everything w/ tax, so we'll see how this goes and I'll post back the results. :)
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Re: Intake valve cleaning

Postby truckdad15 » Feb 22 2020, 6:10pm

My valve cleaning stuff arrived Friday afternoon, so we'll see how it goes today. Let the fun begin... ;)
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Re: Intake valve cleaning

Postby chev-mekanik » Feb 22 2020, 7:17pm

Definitely the best option if you have the time and place to do it.
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Re: Intake valve cleaning

Postby B52Bombardier1 » Feb 22 2020, 10:46pm

I'm more a user of fuel system cleaners inside the gas tank to clean everything all the way to the exhaust manifold. Fuel injectors, valves and combustion chamber all get cleaned using Chevron Techron, AC Delco X66P or Kreen.

It takes longer this way but is more thorough.

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Re: Intake valve cleaning

Postby truckdad15 » Feb 22 2020, 11:09pm

[quote="B52Bombardier1"]I'm more a user of fuel system cleaners inside the gas tank to clean everything all the way to the exhaust manifold. Fuel injectors, valves and combustion chamber all get cleaned using Chevron Techron, AC Delco X66P or Kreen.

It takes longer this way but is more thorough.

Rick

Not on DFI engines they won't...

The backside of the intake valves get no fuel washing like the old SFI/port fuel injected engines did, so you can run 100 gallons of what-ever cleaner you want through the fuel tank, but that cleaner will NOT reach the backside of the intake valves/seats like fuel injectors, combustion chambers and the fire-side of the valves will.

Chemical cleaning would certainly be a nice addition to mechanical cleaning, but not a replacement for it. Believe me.....I've been there, done that already TWICE; hence the reason I'm biting the bullet and going this route - which happens to be a factory service protocol (for many brands, including BMW) as "maintenance" if the coking situation gets bad enough.
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Re: Intake valve cleaning

Postby Spectreniner » Feb 22 2020, 11:10pm

B52Bombardier1 wrote:I'm more a user of fuel system cleaners inside the gas tank to clean everything all the way to the exhaust manifold. Fuel injectors, valves and combustion chamber all get cleaned using Chevron Techron, AC Delco X66P or Kreen.

It takes longer this way but is more thorough.

Rick

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Those don't work on Direct Injection engines, hence why the valves get coked and dirtied up. The only way to really clean them is media blast.
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Re: Intake valve cleaning

Postby truckdad15 » Feb 22 2020, 11:43pm

Okay...here goes and I'll outline my steps to do this and my observations of how everything worked, in case someone else wants to do this to their truck(s). I can say this...it's not that difficult and can probably be done at home in a short weekend if you have a decent air compressor to feed the blaster. Just be patient, don't cut corners and take your time. :)

VEHICLE PREP:
1. Remove battery cables and set yourself up plenty of light in the engine bay....you're going to need it!

2. I like to use heavy wool blankets on the front grill and fenders to protect either of them from scratches on the paint and chrome.

3. Obviously, remove what-ever air intake system you have and the intake manifold.

4. Vacuum up a loose dirt, leaves or what-not from the engine bay and around the heads so nothing falls into the open intake ports while the intake is off.

5. Tape-off the open intake ports and anything else that's open in the engine bay like the MAF tube, crankcase vent port, valve cover vent ports, etc.

6. Pull the spark plugs to make the engine easier to roll-over when you must close each intake valve before the work in done in that hole.

7. Remove the tape from that port for which you'll be working on first.

8. Roll the engine over by hand clock-wise using a ratchet/socket on the crank bolt until the intake valve is fully (and tightly) on it's seat.

Wooot Wooot! You're now good to go w/ vehicle set-up, so now onto the equipment set-up before you get started... :)
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