4. Install the terminated wires into the back of the connector, push them through the front and then pull them back in until they click , which seats them into ...

truckdad15 · by **truckdad15** [OP] » Mar 10 2020, 3:48pm

4. Install the terminated wires into the back of the connector, push them through the front and then pull them back in until they "click", which seats them into the connector.

5. Install a terminal lock inside the connector to keep the wires from pulling out.

6. Seat the rubber wire seal on the connector end and you're good to go! 8-)

Bradley21sanders · by **Bradley21sanders** » Mar 10 2020, 4:01pm

nice project you got going on, would be cool to have it setup to do cleaning or NOS lol.

truckdad15 · by **truckdad15** [OP] » Mar 10 2020, 4:08pm

The pump mounting bracket is held on by two small screws that are threaded directly into the pump body. I wanted to make sure those holes were moisture resistant, so a dab of marine RTV was applied over/around the holes, so when the bracket is installed, the screws will seal up and bracket itself will seal to the pump body - preventing any water from getting into the pump through those threaded holes.

After the terminals, connectors and seal was installed, I secured the loose wiring leads to the pump body itself to provide some strain relief to the wires where they go into the pump - just so they wouldn't pull out over time.

Also, since the pump will be mounted in the vertical position with the wiring inlet port facing down, I created a "drip-loop" on the wiring harness where water or condensation can collect on that loop and drip away from the pump - just to prevent any extra water from getting into the pump that way.

The manufacturer says the pump is water "resistant", not water "tight", so any extra preventative sealing measures here would likely pay off in the long run regarding pump life.

truckdad15 · by **truckdad15** [OP] » Mar 10 2020, 6:48pm

Pump Mounting:

I chose to mount the injection pump on the driver's side frame rail just ahead of the engine and under the front skid plate for protection. It has to be mounted under the reservoir to promote gravity-fed liquid flow and also under the injection point height at the intake manifold, so the liquid won't siphon out.

1. I mocked up where I wanted the pump to mount, transferred the mounting bracket hole locations onto the frame and center-punched them all to give a pilot drill bit a place to start.

2. Drilled them out with an 1/8" bit to allow the self-starting screws to cut themselves some threads.

3. Before the pump/bracket was installed, I applied small dabs of marine RTV to each mounting hole in the frame to help seal that hole from moisture, which could allow rust to start in this location.

4. I used stainless steel, self-tapping screws/washers to mount the pump, as they will not rust or corrode living outside as they will, in close proximity to alcohol.

5. Snugged the pump mounting bolts down on their rubber mounting pads, re-installed the skid plate and it's good to go!

Now on to the reservoir mounting later on tonight..

truckdad15 · by **truckdad15** [OP] » Mar 10 2020, 11:49pm

Update: 3-10-20 evening...

The last bit for tonight...

I need to mock-up the injection hose routing from the inlet of the pump to the reservoir and from the pump outlet to the injector hose, while planning for the one-way check valve on the pressure side somewhere.

The first few pics outline where the hose will route from the high pressure hose down to the pump outlet, keeping in mind to stay away from as much "hot stuff" as I can - while allowing for long, sweeping curves of the hose to eliminate any potential kinking when it gets warm and/or soft.

ALL of these hoses will be sheathed and protected with high temperature HD, white-stripe wiring loom to protect them from weather, dirt, chaffing or anything else that might nick this high pressure hose to leak. It's black for an OEM appearance and it will be installed last after leak testing...

BTW- I have no idea why this forum posts my pictures backwards and sideways from the way they were originally taken... Sorry if they are hard to see when crooked - I don't take them or post them that way.

truckdad15 · by **truckdad15** [OP] » Mar 10 2020, 11:55pm

My curiosity got the better of me regarding how this one-way check valve device works, so I took it apart for inspection. Looks to be manufactured very well and the important components are either alcohol-resistant rubber, stainless steel and brass.

I installed the valve in a convenient location inline of the high pressure injection hose. Should be easy to service in the future.

truckdad15 · by **truckdad15** [OP] » Mar 11 2020, 12:02am

These last pictures for tonight outline the low-pressure hose routing from the reservoir to the injection pump inlet. I had originally removed the battery tray so I could locate a suitable hose routing path and now it's going back in.

The hose will route thru an existing large hole in the factory battery tray and to keep it from getting chaffed or cut over time, I installed a rubber grommet into the hole to protect the hose.

That's about it for tonight. I'm tired and my back is screaming! More to come on Thursday when I can get back to the project, where I'll fab a mounting plate for the reservoir and mount it inside the engine bay.

Cheers!

truckdad15 · by **truckdad15** [OP] » Mar 11 2020, 8:02pm

Update: 3-11-20
Snuck out into the shop today to fabricate the mounting plate used to mount the injection liquid reservoir, which will be located in the battery tray area. Here goes...

I'm fab'bing the plate using .060" thick aluminum diamond plate scrap due primarily to it being light-weight, easy to make look nice w/out paint and it won't corrode. Plus, the "diamond" pattern makes it a lot stiffer/rigid than a straight piece of sheet metal would ever be.

Then, I used a piece of cardboard from the shipping box my stuff came in, to create a pattern that I'll transfer over to cut the aluminum out of. The cardboard is much easier to work with when creating a template like this and if you mess up, it's easy (and cheap) to start again.

truckdad15 · by **truckdad15** [OP] » Mar 11 2020, 8:08pm

Took a few measurements from the battery tray area to understand the dimensions of the plate.

Each end of the plate will break at a 45* angle using a metal forming break, where those "ears" will be used to mount the plate to the engine bay metal structure using stainless steel, self tapping screws.

After a few measurements, cuts, test-fitting and marking for the mounting holes, the finished template came out pretty good.

truckdad15 · by **truckdad15** [OP] » Mar 11 2020, 8:16pm

Here the template is final-fitted into place to double-check everything one last time before the plate is made from that aluminum plate I showed earlier. One end of the plate closest to the radiator will share a mounting bolt with the factory plastic windshield washer fluid tank.

The last picture is a mock-up and representation where the reservoir will be located when installed, making the filler cap easy to access/remove and easy to pour liquid into.

That's all for today folks!