I just finished a de-carbon job on my 2015 Silverado for the SECOND time in 86k miles - with the first time using a chemical clean from BG and this ...

[truckdad15]

I just finished a de-carbon job on my 2015 Silverado for the SECOND time in 86k miles - with the first time using a chemical clean from BG and this last one using a mechanical cleaning w/ walnut shells. Needless to say, this is getting to be a real PITA and I don't want to deal w/ this again anytime soon, so something had to be done...

As my truck goes back together over the next few days, I'm going to be doing some minor, non-invasive, tasteful modifications that should enable the installation of an on-board intake port/valve cleaning fogger system that can be activated w/ a switch from the driver's seat...while driving. My intention is to keep on top of the valve carbon-coking issue by activating this system as regular "maintenance" to keep the intake ports, intake valves, combustion chambers, injector tips and piston crowns clean.

That said, I'll post my progress for you guys to see, as I did with the walnut shell cleaning gig just finished.
GDI Intake Valve Cleaning (walnut shells)

Here goes!

[truckdad15]

The liquid/fogger injection system can be had from Snow Performance (now owned by NX Express) for about $304 bux.
https://www.nitrousexpress.com/stage-1- ... no-201.asp

I've got a LOT of experience w/ these systems from my auto performance/racing past, so I know they work...well! Comes w/ everything needed to adapt it to an N/A or forced induction application.

The kit I have is a new left-over system I kept after I sold my business, has a white tank and a pump rated at 220 psi injection pressure. However, the new systems come w/ a black tank w/ a heavier duty pump that carries 300 psi instead!

I'm not interested in making more power with my truck (although this kit could support that), I just want to clean my engine internals easier from my driver's seat, rather than taking the damn engine apart every year...

[truckdad15]

New AC/Delco L83 intake manifold just showed up!

$110 bux from Rock Auto.

[nealinator]

Fancy packaging even!

[truckdad15]

Fancy packaging even!

[TheMightyWhitey]

I don't see how this is going to clean the intake ports or the back sides of the valves.

In vehicles with water/meth injection, isn't it the conversion of the water to steam in the combustion chamber that gives the cleaning effect??? Even with the little bit of valve overlap in our engines, I don't see this having much effect.

[truckdad15]

It's quite simple really.

You're right - the water will turn into steam within the CC, but the methanol in the water/methanol mix is what softens the carbon and scrubs the backside of the valves as it passes. Combine all of that with the high-heat environment and latent evaporation of the mixture and the benefits are realized.

In the past, we used this stuff w/ our high HP turbocharged applications, by injecting a simple water/meth mixture (simple windshield washer fluid...winter blend) ahead of the compressor turbine to keep the intake tract clean. Not only did it do that well, but the entire intake tract from the compressor scroll, intake tubing, intercooler and intake manifold was squeaky clean - completely void of oil residue and crap that would otherwise coat everything on the inside when it wasn't used as a comparison. Not to mention that the rapid evaporation of each liquid and the methonal itself provides an EXCELLENT octane booster. After seeing the carbon mess these engines develop, that's what gave me the idea to try it in this application.

Once I get this thing going, it's my intention to run a batch of Sea Foam thru it to get at the heavy stuff that I can't get to in the CC and then follow-up with WW fluid thereafter as "maintenance."

A winter blend of WW fluid at -32* freeze protection carries around 38%'ish methanol content by volume, which most good auto parts stores carry for around $2 - $3 bux a gallon.

[SierraWilks]

I've gotta ask and bare with me because this is just the way my cynical mind works.....how is it that all that is necessary (I'm including the 2 cleanings you've done in "all that") at 86,000 miles when there are 10's of thousands of trucks out there with the same motor running well over 100,000 miles with no adverse effects that their owners are aware of?

I mean everyone is not having these issues so what's really going on?

I'm not saying there isn't an issue (I have a catch can on mine at 96K) but seriously what happens in certain motors that requires all this work?

[truckdad15]

I've gotta ask and bare with me because this is just the way my cynical mind works.....how is it that all that is necessary (I'm including the 2 cleanings you've done in "all that") at 86,000 miles when there are 10's of thousands of trucks out there with the same motor running well over 100,000 miles with no adverse effects that their owners are aware of?

I mean everyone is not having these issues so what's really going on?

I'm not saying there isn't an issue (I have a catch can on mine at 96K) but seriously what happens in certain motors that requires all this work?

Since I've purchased this truck brand new back in late 2015, (as well with any vehicle I own) I take religious care of my stuff and probably go the extra mile with care/maintenance as well to keep this late model junk running smooth. Plus, as a retired ASE/GM Master Technician of too many years to count, (beginning in the 80's) I guess it's in my blood to naturally "fix things" that I know are broken or have the potential to break, because I don't want to entertain even the possibility of having vehicle break-downs if I can help it.

That said - the carbon coking issue with these engines (including MANY other brands) is WIDELY known and there are COUNTLESS instances all over the place that have documented negative issues with them for quite some time, so the problem still exists...even if someone either ignores it out of ignorance or ignores it by choice or even if they choose to deny its existence....

I choose to be the guy that addresses the problem head-on AND try to come up with a solution so it won't happen again, because I KNOW it's there have the ability to do so. Call it "extra work" or whatever to figure out a solution for these problems, but I call it pro-active maintenance and choose to post what I find works here on this forum so others can either also learn what I've learned during the journey and/or choose to implement the solutions to their truck as well.

Each person can pick their own path/poison.

[ferraiolo1]

If you’re that big on preventative measures. Why haven’t you removed the afm system yet?

There are far more instances and issues with that than carbon coating

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