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Electrical issues - electrical draw

Electrical issues - electrical draw

Postby nickpohlaandp [OP] » Dec 11 2016, 1:13am

I know this forum is for Silverado/Sierra, but I just came into possession of an '03 Tahoe (5.3, loaded, leather, Bose stereo, etc.) for $1k. Y'all have helped a lot when I had questions about my Silverado, so I figured what the heck, I'll see if anyone might know about this.

The Tahoe runs and drives great but it has a draw draining the battery. Initially I didn't care because I had just planned on using its powertrain for my Model T, but now my wife wants me to let our son drive it. I'm fine with that, I can get another LS engine anywhere. However, this now leaves me with the electrical draw issue.

I'm planning on using my multimeter hooked up in series with the negative battery terminal and pulling fuses until the draw goes away in order to locate the circuit. However, this leaves me with two issues. First, the Tahoe doesn't have a "door open" button that I can tell, so how do I make the truck think the drivers door is closed while I'm pulling fuses from the panel on the left side of the dash?

Second, after Googling this issue, I've seen a lot of stuff come up regarding the BCM. If I don't pinpoint the issue by pulling fuses and it ends up being the BCM, what am I looking at in the way of hurdles when it comes to replacing that? I found BCM's for around $150-$200, but once I get one, do I need to have it programmed by a dealer, or is that something I could order pre-programmed?

Thank you all for your insight and assistance. I look forward to your replies.
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Re: Electrical issues - electrical draw

Postby wottenad » Dec 11 2016, 3:26am

To get the truck to think the door is closed, just close the latch in the door with a screwdriver or something. That will kill the domelight and door chimes and make the truck dead electrically while the door is open.

REMEMBER TO OPEN THE DOOR HANDLE BEFORE CLOSING THE DOOR!

As far as the BCM, you're probably jumping way ahead of yourself - in my experience, I have yet to have a BCM cause a draw - maybe something being controlled by the BCM, but not the BCM itself. My guess is that you will find it by pulling fuses.

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Re: Electrical issues - electrical draw

Postby jjr » Dec 11 2016, 3:57am

Let's not get ahead of ourselves...

1) how big is the draw?

2) Any aftermarket gear on board?
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Re: Electrical issues - electrical draw

Postby nickpohlaandp [OP] » Dec 11 2016, 4:46am

I haven't even begun to look. The Tahoe is bone stock, nothing aftermarket. I'll find out how much of a draw it is tomorrow after church.
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Re: Electrical issues - electrical draw

Postby GMT604 » Dec 11 2016, 6:00am

Start with the IPC/DIC oe SEOB1 fuse under the hood. ;)

If that is the draw, remove the back cover of the cluster and remove all the corrosion from the circuit board with a pencil eraser and alcohol.

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Re: Electrical issues - electrical draw

Postby nickpohlaandp [OP] » Dec 11 2016, 3:11pm

Dude, if that's the issue I'm gonna call you out on some kind of sorcery
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Re: Electrical issues - electrical draw

Postby nickpohlaandp [OP] » Dec 11 2016, 9:01pm

So I went ahead and found the draw. Long story short, it's in the stereo circuit. It's got the Bose stereo system, and I'm pretty sure the trucks that came with that had extra amplifiers and more stuff to go wrong. The gremlin is in there.

Here's what I found. Once I finally got my multimeter to work (internal 10A fuse was blown so chalk up one trip to the auto parts store), I hooked it up in series with the negative battery cable to the battery terminal. With the ignition off and all doors closed, I was showing a 2.75A draw. I started pulling fuses and if the draw didn't go away, fuse went back in. When I pulled the stereo fuse the draw dropped to 0.03A. That's an acceptable draw for a sitting vehicle IMO. So I was happy to find that, but just out of curiosity, I pulled one lead out of the multimeter to open the circuit, then plugged the lead back in. This resulted in a 0.75A draw for about 15-20 seconds, then it would drop down to 0.03A. I started pulling fuses again, resetting the circuit whenever the draw would drop down to 0.03A. When I got to the IPC/DIC fuse, the draw was gone.

So in conclusion what I learned is... A. The stereo system is screwed up somewhere. I'm trying to muster up the energy to care, but it's hard to do. B. There's something in the instrument panel circuit that pulls a small amount of amperage when it is first connected to power, like a test mode or something, but after a few seconds, no more issues.

Throughout this whole ordeal I was also able to determine that the A/C compressor is messed up, it makes a horrible noise when trying to engage. This is remedied by simply turning the A/C off. At the end of the day it looks to me like I'm going to get to keep my Tahoe drivetrain for my Model T Sedan Rat Rod build and my stepson can continue driving the 1994 T****a pickup that I so generously bought him. I'm not sure where it derailed, but somewhere along the line it seems as though he came to the conclusion he was "entitled" to a newer vehicle, for nothing else other than the fact that he graces his mother and I with his presence, eats our food, and sleeps in our house. Now I can tell him with confidence, "Sure, you can have the Tahoe, but you're going to need an A/C compressor, you'll have no stereo, and you're still going to need to check the oil when you fill up with gas because it has a rear main drip just like the T****a. Oh, that, and you have to pay for all of it." I'm thinking he'll probably end up continuing to drive the T****a.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction guys. This is a perfect example of why I love these forums!
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Re: Electrical issues - electrical draw

Postby GMT604 » Dec 12 2016, 12:29am

Radios were a common draw problem on these as well. Good find.

First powerup of the cluster it resets all the stepper motors to zero, so you will see a little bit of a draw till it goes to sleep.
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Re: Electrical issues - electrical draw

Postby jmoore19 » Dec 14 2016, 5:58pm

Still trying to chase mine down a little bit. Good job finding it.
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Re: Electrical issues - electrical draw

Postby nickpohlaandp [OP] » Dec 14 2016, 7:12pm

Not sure if I said this, but once I got it sorted out, the draw on the battery with the vehicle off and parked is 0.03A, which is perfectly ok.
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