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2009 Silverado 100k Coolant Flush

29K views 31 replies 10 participants last post by  SnakePlissken69  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I got under the hood to do a coolant flush and saw the spring tension clamps. I tried to remove the easiest one first with a pair of channel locks. It wasn't very easy to do and I knew the bottom hose clamp would be much worse. So I went to the parts store and bought this. It wasn't the cheapest tool I've purchased at $30.00 but in the end I would have paid even more. I wasn't a fan of spring tension clamps until now. Now I think they were a pretty good invention. Here is a photo of the clamp tool.
H1730005.JPG


Here is how I flushed my 2009 5.3L to get out all of the old coolant and grunge. I replaced the coolant with Prestone Dex. The orange premium stuff that is GM approved. Even though you can mix it with dexcool I flushed out the entire system to start fresh. It is very easy to do once you get the clamps off.

First you unplug the maf sensor and remove the air filter cover along with the maf sensor. Next remove the air filter and the air filter box. The air filter box is held down by three grommets and 2 plastic pins molded into the box. Do not try pull up on the box all at once, you may break the rear grommet. Pull up on the engine side of the box to release the 2 molded pins first. Then push the box towards the engine to release the rear grommet. The rear grommet slides on a track until it reaches an opening that lets you lift up on the rear of the box. You will see what I mean once you remove the box and look at the bottom it.

Now remove the bottom hose from the radiator using either the clamp tool (recommended) or channel locks and let it drain into a pan. There is no petcock, you must remove the hose. Next remove the radiator upper hose. Now I take my garden hose and flush out the radiator for several minutes from the upper radiator. Next remove the cap from the plastic reserve tank. With the garden hose inside the tank make a seal with your hands and flush out the system. If you seal it right you will see the fluid coming out of the upper radiator hose. It doesn't have to be a tight seal and probably shouldn't be. You don't want to over pressurize the system or hoses. Keep flushing until it becomes clear.

Loosely put the hoses back on You don't need the clamps and the hoses don't need to be tight. Fill up the system through the reserve tank but leave the pressure cap off. Turn on the heater and set the fan to full blast. Put the air filter cover back on the air duct hose and plug in the maf sensor. I didn't install the air filter box or air filter at this time.

Start the engine and idle for a couple of minutes. Check the tank, it probably has emptied already. Fill it about half way full. Now slowly rev the engine to about 3000 rpm and hold it for a few seconds. Slowly let it go back to idle. If you just let off the throttle chances are that the water in the tank will back splash out of the tank and make a mess, so slowly rev and let off the gas a few times. Check the tank again it will probably be empty again. Fill up half way and repeat the engine rev. The idea is to remove all of the air and circulate the water through the system. Also your heater core could air lock and you will not feel any heat coming out of the vents. At this point the vents should be getting pretty hot and the engine temp should be close to normal. Shut down the engine and let it cool. I just let it cool enough so it wont burn me.

Repeat the entire process. I used the garden hose and flushed everything 2 more times. Remember to not put the cap back on the reservoir tank when doing this. You do not want to pressurize the system.

Now go ahead and install the upper radiator hose permanently but install the lower hose loose. Using distilled water,it will take approx. 2 gallons (but not all at once) fill the system through the tank. It should take about 1 gallon before it's full. Start the engine and watch the tank empty. Fill it about halfway full and go do the engine revs. Check the tank again and refill it. Keep doing this and you should get the other gallon of distilled water in it. Check the heat coming out of the vents and make sure they are getting hot. Let idle for a couple of minutes and shut off the engine. Let it cool and remove the lower hose again and let it drain. Do this procedure with the distilled water one more time. Make sure it is taking 2 gallons when you do this. Why ? because the 2009 5.3L cooling system holds 16.9 quarts of fluid. 16 quarts mixed 50/50 would be 2 gallons antifreeze and 2 gallons distilled water. So you want to make sure when you do the next step you can get 2 gallons of straight concentrated antifreeze put in. After you flushed for the second time with distilled water shut off the engine and let it cool. Remove the lower hose and drain. Now you can reinstall the lower hose securely with the hose clamp. Reinstall the air box, air filter, and air filter cover. Don't forget to plug the maf sensor back in.

Using pure antifreeze (prestone dex) recommended pour the first gallon in the tank or as much as it will take. Pour it slowly, it is quite a bit thicker and pours slowly. Leave the cap off and start the engine. Check the tank and fill it about halfway with straight antifreeze. You will probably start using the second gallon by now. Start doing the engine revs slowly to 3000 rpm and slowly back to idle. Do this and check the tank again. You will probably be able to get the second in at this point. Go back and do your engine revs again and make sure you are getting heat out the heater vents. Check the tank again any you will notice it's kind foamy looking or odd looking. That's the air purging out of the system. Do some more engine revs and then let it idle for while, make sure the temp gauge is reading normal and you have good heat out of the vents. Shut the engine down and install the cap on the tank. After the engine has cooled check the tank. It should be low at this point. Fill to full cold mark either with a 50/50 mix or straight water. It wont make that much of a difference. Check the level in a couple days and make sure you don't have any leaks. That's it.

Gozzie
 

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#2 ·
Nice job!

You might want to dress that up a bit into proper format and submit it the mods for inclusion in the "HOW TO" section. There are instructions for doing so in the HOW TO section.

Is this the first time you done the coolant flush on the truck?
 
#3 ·
I just bought the truck with 93500 miles on it so I've been changing fluids and cleaning parts for a few days now. I appreciate the comment on the how to article but I'm new to forum so I didn't think they would post it. If you like you can use any part of this you want and make a how to. I'd be honored. I noticed that there is not much information available on the 2009 -2013 models for quite a few of the maintenance tasks and there are some oddball differences in these compared to the 2006 and earlier models.

I've have learned a lot about my truck just doing it myself and hopefully by documenting what I do it may help others. Please note though that some of the things I do are improvised and there could be better ways. I haven't had my truck long and I don't know all of its quirks yet but I can already tell it's running much better now than when I bought it and I thought it was running pretty good then.

I will say that I start out with the how to articles available (and they have been very helpful) to get myself familiar with the project at hand. I tend to over analyze everything and the project usually turns out to be easier than what I expected. I did learn that having the right tool for the job makes life that much easier.

You'll also note that I type and say way much more than what's needed. I apologize for the long winded answers.

Gozzie
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
hallmark,
The coolant flush is not very difficult but I wouldn't try to do it without the clamp tool. It's a fairly tight fit around the lower radiator hose. The clamp tool has the wire extension that allows you to get a grip on the clamp and it locks it open making it much easier to remove the hose. Everything is done from the top side of the truck. You don't have to climb underneath for anything. Removing the air filter cover, filter and box takes about 5 minutes. You loosen one hose clamp, remove 4 screws and unplug the maf sensor. Here is a picture of the air filter cover with the maf sensor.
H1710051.JPG


Once you remove the cover you just pull up (wiggle a little while you pull) at the front of the filter box (engine side). Then just push the box forward towards the engine until the back of the box is able to pull up. The lower radiator hose is now able to be removed.

Play with the upper radiator hose clamp first with the tool so you can see how it operates. Then the lower will be easy for you to remove. Just follow my instructions from there. The thing to remember is anytime you start your engine you need to put at least the air filter cover onto the air duct and plug in the maf sensor.

Trust me, you can do this. It would also be a great time to spray the maf sensor with some maf cleaner.

Gozzie
 

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#6 ·
So, GM took away the drain valve and made it nearly impossible to disconnect the radiator hose. Yep, another engineering disaster.

So, did you attempt to access the lower hose from below? I would just as soon not have to buy a $30 tool I may use one time before I misplace it.

Oh, and you are correct that there is really very little out there for flushing the coolant on an NNBS truck which is strange because there are a whole lot of them on the road that are way over 100,000 miles.
 
#7 ·
I would say that I could not access the clamp from under the truck. Someone may be able to but it is really hidden from below. I agree $30.00 is a lot for such a simple tool but... there was no way I could do it without it. It really is bummer but I did save more than that by not having a dealer or shop do it and I also know that they would never flush it out as good as I did. GM says not to use chemical flushes so instead I did many multiple flushes.I guess that's the tradeoff.

You may be able to get the clamps with a pair of pliers but I could not. If you figure it out please let everyone else know the trick. After all $30.00 could go towards something better.

Gozzie
 
#8 ·
Ahhh, I will take your word for it. I have not specifically checked for that and I am not familiar enough with my truck to know if it would be easier from below. I likely won't be doing a flush on my truck for another year or two. I only have 57,000 on it right now. But, when I do, I will likely look up this thread for guidance.

By the way, can you post the name of that tool and maybe even a link to it in case someone else wants to pick one up? It could even be that someone else can source that tool for a better price.
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
There is another and maybe easier route. Either take the hose off the thermostat end or simply unbolt the thermostat. I think but am not sure the thermostat has an o ring instead of a gasket but I don't know for sure. You have to push the hose down because it sits so much higher in the engine block but there is a lot of room around it. You could probably do it this way and not even have to disconnect the air box.

Something to ponder anyway. I took a couple of pictures to look at.
H1730006.JPG

H1730007.JPG


The name of the tool is tension clamp pliers. There appears to be several manufacturers on google. I could have saved some money apparently but I was in a hurry and got mine at Oreilles.

Gozzie
 

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#12 ·
Gozzie,

I have an aftermarket air cooler that I installed myself so I think I shouldn't have to remove anything but i'm not 100% sure. I'll take your word on it calling it easy. I've installed that aftermarket cooler, leaf spring, and did a transmission flush and filter change so I can probably do the radiator flush. But I like to watch all the videos and get as much knowledge as I can before I tackle something.
 
#13 ·
I'm the exact same way. I'll study 2 days for a 10 minute job. I guess we are better off being that way than to jump in blind. If you can do a transmission pan drop and filter change, the coolant flush will be a walk in the park. Mine is a 4x4 and I'm studying hard on doing the transmission. It looks like it will be a real pain in the butt.

Gozzie
 
#17 ·
esox07 said:
So, GM took away the drain valve and made it nearly impossible to disconnect the radiator hose. Yep, another engineering disaster.
Speaking of disasters, the Corbin hose clamp is another.
I have had them blow off, losing all my coolant in the process. Lucky to have caught it before cooking a head gasket, or worse.
Whenever I need to service the cooling system for any reason, I throw those spring clamps straight into the garbage can, and replace with proper gear type clamps. Never had a failure or hoses coming off ever again.

CarMech97
 
#19 ·
Yah, I don't think I had ever heard that name before.
I did look under the hood of my truck today. I took the opportunity to check my oil as well as take a peak at the lower radiator hose. I can see where it is next to impossible to access from above but even more so from below. I agree that removing it from the thermostat housing or even taking off the thermostat cover would be a much simpler task. If a guy has enough miles on the truck, it would be a good time to go ahead and replace the thermostat as well.

Carmech97 is probably right in that it would also be wise to consider replacing the "Corbin" clamps with the old style screw band/worm gear hose clamps. Just make sure you use quality ones and not the cheap ones. The cheap ones are poorly made and the gear housings on them can easily come apart after a while if they are cheaply made. Using cheap ones might even be more dangerous than the existing clamps.
 
#21 ·
Gozzie said:
I glad to know the official name of the clamp (Corbin) Thanks
You're welcome.

The other type are known as Jubilee clips (worm drive), and I happen to prefer them, because I have never had one fail.

It's true what esox07 said. Don't use cheap clamps. Especially on higher pressure hoses. You'll have problems.

A lot of people may think that the Corbin clamp is secure, but apparently, once it's removed it cannot be reused. I almost found that out the hard way. Once you've squeezed it enough to slip it off the hose and spigot, it has lost its tension and will no longer seal reliably.
So after having to walk for water and coolant - I don't trust them anymore. And you always have to fight to get them off - even if you DO have the right pliers - as the ears are always oriented in the worst possible position :evil:

It's saved me a lot of stress and aggravation to just toss them and replace with worm drive clamps.

Still haven't done a coolant flush yet, so I better get on it soon.

Thanks for the write-up, Gozzie! :idea:

CarMech97
 
#22 ·
I appreciate the warning on the clamps failing and not reusing them. I may be in a pickle at this point. I really don't want to drain it out again to replace the clamp. Maybe I'll keep the pliers in the truck and keep a worm gear clamp along with it just in case she decides to let go.

Your other point is very valid. If the ears would have been positioned differently the job would have been much harder.

Gozzie
 
#23 ·
If you could remove the old clamp by opening with your special tool and then cutting it with a pair of wire cutters, you can put a worm drive clamp on by completely unscrewing it and putting it around the hose and then re-tightening it. They will come completely out if you screw them far enough.
 
#25 ·
First let me say thank y'all for this thread the detail and the pictures were incredibly useful. Here is my experience and some additional useful links. Coolant Flush types, advice & opinions

bryn0727 said:
For any of those following along or considering attempting this here is my update after fighting through this..

Also these posts helped me the most and answered questions that I didn't think of on the front end so I highly suggest reading them prior to starting. Most useful in order...

2009 Silverado 100k Coolant Flush
Coolant flush questions
coolant flush

What I did right...

1) Bought CONCENTRATED Prestone dex-cool and plenty of distilled water (like 7 gallons of water)

2) Unhooked the engine side of the lower radiator hose instead of the radiator side. (reason being I had better control of where the fluid drained to and the hose clamp on that side is MUCH easier to handle.)

3) After I felt that I had flushed enough I drained again from the lower hose with the engine off, and started the refill with straight concentrated dex cool instead of water or mix. (I knew I wasn't able to completely drain ALL of the 'flushing' water from the system so it made sense that if I was going to try to get the 50/50 mixture I needed to start with straight coolant. Low and behold it didn't even take a full gallon of coolant when filling up the reservoir tank.)

It didn't seem like it would be an issue to get the 50/50 mixture before getting started. 16.9qt capacity so 8.45 coolant 8.45 distilled water right?? NO!! the problem I didn't realize is that the system wouldn't be able to be drained completely so the leaves an undetermined amount of water that you have to kind of guess how much coolant you need to offset. See links for posts 2 & 3 above.

What I did wrong...

1) Bought that $40 hose clamp plier from auto store xxxx. ( The tool is and would be very useful and convenient to have so I suggest getting a GOOD one online if you have the time to wait for it to come in. BUT the one from AZ, AAP & O'R are all cheaply made and don't depress the clamps enough to use for this job. The one I bought broke on the second try on the top hose clamp. Take this advice for what it's worth to you.)

2) Didn't keep track of how much fluids I was draining each time. (This is important in two ways... First it helps to know so you know how much coolant and/or water you need to re-add each time. Second, my 4 gallon drain pan got too full before I realized I needed to drain to some empty containers and I had a mess to deal with because of it.)

3) I didn't run the engine the full 10 minute (or to normal 210 degree temp) between draining's while flushing. I ran it until the fans kicked on and this may end up not being that big of a deal, but I tend to over analyze and over do things so me being me I didn't feel confident in the end because of it. I did do the flush 4 times so I feel confident that I circulated the system enough, but IMO I'd suggest going the full 10 minutes each time.

At the moment I only have one full gallon of dex-cool in the system. It's running fine and have had no issue getting hot yet, but I'm not going to sleep right until I know there's 2 gallons of coolant in there. Highly likely I start this process all over again and do it right. Anyone that has suggestions/feedback/comments please feel free.