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oil pressure gauge

gauge is stuck on zero

oil pressure gauge

Postby mmrubio361 [OP] » Nov 03 2017, 1:49am

08 silverado 5.3 1500. was driving fine one day then the next day i notice the oil pressure gauge is at zero and it threw a CEL that same day. i went to oreillys to get the codes read and they were P0121 AND P0523 .changed out the oil pressure sensor and it still reads at zero on the cluster gauge !
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Re: oil pressure gauge

Postby 19trax9519trax95 is online! » Nov 03 2017, 2:13am

Could be the gauge or the wiring. But did you at least out a mechanical gauge on the re to make sure you have oil pressure? I would assume you do since it seems like your still driving it, but I always verify what kind of pressure I have before I continue to run itr and diag it.
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Re: oil pressure gauge

Postby apcnc » Nov 03 2017, 2:17am

Check the connector and wire to the sensor. The wires may be shorted together soaked. Etc. Check the resistance between them to see if that is the case and trace it back.
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Re: oil pressure gauge

Postby apcnc » Nov 03 2017, 2:23am

19trax95 wrote:Could be the gauge or the wiring. But did you at least out a mechanical gauge on the re to make sure you have oil pressure? I would assume you do since it seems like your still driving it, but I always verify what kind of pressure I have before I continue to run itr and diag it.


That's actually saying the pressure is to high isn't it? Like there is no resistance on the sensor or shorted. Or am I backwards on that?
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Re: oil pressure gauge

Postby 19trax9519trax95 is online! » Nov 03 2017, 2:42am

The code is for the oil pressure sensor voltage high. So it's reading over 4.6 volts which is over the normal max of 4.5 (5 volt reference). Since the op put a new sensor in and the code persists, it is either wiring or the motor.

A mechanical gauge will rule out the motor. My guess would be a wire is pinched or rubbed through causing a short which is making the ecm think the voltage from the sensor is too high, when in reality, the sensor is essentially being bypassed by the short.
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Re: oil pressure gauge

Postby mmrubio361 [OP] » Nov 03 2017, 4:00am

thanks for all the info. will be checking it out tomorrow for sure. since it is my daily driver is it fine to keep driving it with those problems ? ive had the cel's for about 3 days now. seems to run normal.
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Re: oil pressure gauge

Postby apcnc » Nov 03 2017, 4:43am

As long as you have decent oil pressure and no blockage. You don't know what the pressure is so its a bit of a gamble.o doubt its anything other than the wires shorted together but there is a slight possibility you have a blockage. IMO it would have to be really bad and probably using heavier oil to shoot that high.
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Re: oil pressure gauge

Postby Vortec5.3 » Nov 09 2017, 2:13pm

I bought a 2013 Chevy Silverado 5.3 4x4 3 days ago. I’ve notice the oil pressure drop to 20psi or just above 20 when Idiling. Goes back to 40 once I start driving. Is that normal? I hear people say not to worry about it that’s normal cause these trucks don’t need that much pressure. And others say who ever changed oil added a cheap oil filter, to replace it. Any thoughts??
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Re: oil pressure gauge

Postby 1985zx900 » Nov 09 2017, 2:37pm

Also when you pull the oil pressure sensor out , there is a screen filter in the hole under the sensor you need to take a piece of wire or something and get it out and either clean it or replace it. They will plug up and give bad oil pressure readings. Also check the wires and plug .
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Re: oil pressure gauge

Postby kroohrsr » Jan 22 2020, 5:57pm

OK. I have a 2008 Silverado 1500. I had the same issue many are discussing. One day I had zero pressure on my dash gauge. Did my research. I had the P521 and P523 codes. The 521 is a generic code, the 523 is specific to a high voltage reading to the computer. The system defaults to a zero output to the gauge with this condition. So that explains the zero reading. The engine was running fine and would have blown up after who know how many miles I drove before i realized this. So going forward. I read so many responses on how difficult it would be to change the switch and how many things needed to be removed to get access.

With that said, I climbed into the engine area and used the spare battery tray and a rest for my feet. I could with some difficulty reach the connector and gauge without removing anything at all. I used the correct sensor socket with a wobble extension. Was out in a few minutes. Once it was out I decided to read the resistance of the terminals as compared to the new switch. The new one read about 300 ohms to common, the old one read about 300K from each terminal to common. This made sense to me. Many are saying it is a shorted sensor. No. A short would have zero voltage and would most likely trip the code for low voltage not high voltage. A high resistance reading will read a high voltage. V=IR so if the current is the same and the resistance increases than yer you get a high voltage. So in my opinion it was close to an open circuit not a shorted one.

Moving on again. Was reading that many found it difficult to replace the little cage filter down under the sensor mount. Was real simple, took an easy out and screwed it into the filter and pulled it out easily. It was clean but replaced anyway. Installed the new filter and gauge. I would also recommend to clear the codes first. If you do not it takes time for the codes to clear and the gauge will still read zero.

So I did not have a fancy scanning tool a but read many posts and used some patience and got it done. Now reads about 32 PSI at idle up to about 50 when stepping on it.
I hope this will help someone else. I also hope that you first try to do this before removing all of the items people are saying are in the way. Guess that is how the techs make their money on us common people. Remove everything to make it easy for them but not for my wallet. If you do not like my comments, do read it.
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