Skill level: competent/proficient
Time: 2 full days
Special Tools: Torque Wrench, Pry bars, Impact sockets, Impact wrench, Schrader tool, Fuel line kit, Assortment of wrenches and sockets, breaker bar, Kent Moore flywheel holding tool, magnetic retrieval tool, tap and die set (optional), 3 claw puller, RTV

The goal of this thread is to combine a plethora of research I've done to delete my AFM / DoD and VVT. The main purpose is to provide you with a list of the parts you'll need to accomplish this. The actual description of the process I provide will be somewhat vague. The reason is that if you want to do this, you'll need more than an article on the internet to tell you how. I used my Haynes Manual. This will just give you an idea of the work involved.

Parts needed for AFM / DoD delete:
Gaskets for your exhaust manifolds, heads, and water pump.
O-ring for your oil pick-up tube
ARP Headstuds 234-4317 $275 from Summit
ARP Harmonic Balancer Bolt 234-2503 $32 from Summit
16 LS7 Lifters 12499225 $114 from gmpartsdirect.com
4 Lifter guides 12595365 $27 from gmpartsdirect.com
4.8L Lifter Valley cover 12598832 $28 from gmpartsdirect.com
1/8" NPT Allen Plugs (optional) from local hardware store
8 O-rings from local hardware store
LS2 Timing Chain dampener 12588670 $11 from gmpartsdirect.com (recommended)
NON-AFM Cam Est. $400 dollars

**IMPORTANT** If you have VVT and are keeping it, have the dealer run your vin and provide you with the part number of your cam phaser sprocket. This is essential for you to receive the proper core.

Parts needed for VVT delete:

3 bolt non-AFM cam Est. $400
3 bolt 4X timing gear 12586481 $15 from gmpartsdirect.com
ARP cam bolts 134-1003 $7 from Summit
ARP cam retainer plate bolts (optional) 134-1002 $8 from Summit
LS2 timing cover with 4X cam sensor 12633906 $70 from gmpartsdirect.com

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal
2. Remove the intake
3. Once the engine is cool, drain your oil
4. Drain and remove your radiator
5. Relieve your fuel pressure with the Schrader tool
6. Remove serpentine belt
7. Remove alternator and mounting bracket
a. Leave the power steering lines hooked up and just bungie the mount to something to keep it out of the way
8. Remove the water pump
9. Remove your A/C compressor
10. Disconnect all electrical connectors and remove the intake manifold
11. Remove your exhaust manifolds
12. Remove your heads
13. Remove your starter
14. When your engine is torn down, it will look like this:


15. Remove the lifters and lifter guides
16. Remove your Harmonic Balancer Bolt
17. Use the three claw puller to remove the Harmonic Balancer
18. Remove the timing chain cover
19. Align the timing marks on your crank and cam sprocket to be at top dead center
20. Install the Kent Moore flywheel tool
21. Remove the oil pump
a. On some models you can utilize this you tube video to fix the oil pick-up tube bolt
i. b. For pick-up tubes like mine where the flange is welded all the way around It is still not necessary to drop the oil pan
i. Use a wrench to break the nut loose on the oil pick-up tube
ii. Remove your skid plate so you can sit under your truck and be eye-level with the oil pick-up tube
iii. Use needle nose plyers to take it the rest of the way out
1. The needle nose plyers will eat away at your oil pan gasket. Use RTV to remedy this when putting the timing cover back on
iv. Use a magnetic retrieval tool to get it out of the oil pan when it drops in
v. When putting the bolt back in the pick-up tube, position the bolt as shown below on a magnetic retrieval tool. Use a flat head screw
driver to apply pressure and push the bolt up in the hole. Use the needle nose to tighten the bolt up enough to get the wrench back on


22. Remove the timing chain tensioner
23. Remove the cam bolt (1 bolt for VVT, 3 bolts for non VVT)


24. Remove the cam gear and timing chain
25. Install the LS2 chain dampener (optional upgrade)
26. Remove the Cam retainer plate
27. Use the cam bolt provided with your new non-AFM cam to pull the cam out
28. Remove your lifter valley cover
29. Tap the oil ports and screw in the allen plugs (optional)

30. Place the 8 O-rings on the oil ports and install your new valley cover
31. Lube up your new cam and install it


32. Install your new lifters and lifter trays
a. Some choose to drill holes in the lifter trays due to the higher oil flow rate of the oil pump equipped on AFM vehicles. This will allow oil to drain back to the pan faster ensuring you do not suck your oil pan dry when operating under high performance conditions.
33. Put it all back together!!!

If you're deleting your VVT, you will put the 3 bolt sprocket on in place of your stock one, and use the LS2 timing cover when you're putting it together

**Things to mention**

-If you're deleting your DoD, you may choose to install a performance cam. If doing so, you will want stiffer valve springs, a trunion kit for your rocker arms, and hardened pushrods. Note that your stock pushrod length is about 7.38"

-If you're keeping your VVT it is suggested to install a phaser limiter provided by COMP Cams. There is a great you tube instructional video on how to install this. Remember to provide the company with the part number of your phaser cam sprocket.

-If you're goal is similar to mine in wanting to supercharge your engine, I suggest also deleting your VVT.

-Benefits of removing DoD-

I do realize that AFM can be tuned out. And if you're keeping your engine stock, then tuning it out is perfectly fine. I'm going to be pushing my engine to about its max SAFE number of about 600hp. Flex fuel's come with aluminum blocks That being said, I need to replace my DoD lifters, hence the need to delete DoD.

-Benefits of removing VVT-

There is real no benefit of removing VVT. VVT provides a stock engine with the best of both worlds: Retarded timing for low end torque when you need it, and some advanced timing at the top end for power. Again, I'm supercharging my engine and although it can be tuned for, I do not want my timing changing through VVT.