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FYI, STOP removing the paint to ground to the seat bolt.

NBS stereo grounding seat tracks

FYI, STOP removing the paint to ground to the seat bolt.

Postby ferraiolo1 » Apr 30 2021, 5:35pm

adriver wrote:I did, but apparently not at the moment. So If you mount it to the seat, you are grounding through the straps. If you ground it through the seat bolt, you are grounding to the frame.

.


No, it’s still grounding to the same point. It’s going through the body to the grounding strap from the body to the frame.

People use the seat studs because it’s the easiest point of contact for the ground in the interior of the body.

But it all still goes through the bonding strip from the body to the frame.


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Re: FYI, STOP removing the paint to ground to the seat bolt

Postby SierraHarley » Apr 30 2021, 8:35pm

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Re: FYI, STOP removing the paint to ground to the seat bolt

Postby plant.one » May 02 2021, 12:36am

19trax95 wrote:You know the cab is mounted to the frame with rubber bushings right? It doesn't ground through there. There are ground straps from the cab to the frame, and cab to engine block.

I've never had an issue grinding the paint off the rear seat mounting bolts and sticking my ground between the cab floor and sear base, and tightening things back down. Have also used the seat belt bolts before too. Just sand a little of the paint off and hook my ground wire up. Granted I'm not doing a super high power system. If it were a more serious system, I may be tempted to make my own ground strap to the frame.



those have always been my go-to point as well.

figure they're robust enough to be a safety anchor point that they HAVE to be a solid ground point to the cab metal.

and like you said, with the cab->frame and cab->block straps (assuming theyre good) you should be golden.


of course, ive never done a massive wattage system either (biggest i've ever done is 600w total between two amps) but i've always been an efficiency system build sound guy anyway. i had a single CV XL-12D tuned for 32Hz run by a 200w monoblock amp that would hit harder than most dual 12 system and quite a few single 15" systems. the roof of my S-15 Jimmy used to flex about an inch + when i really got into it - felt like you got punched in the kidneys lol

its incredible what you can make 200w do in the right setup - even if the 6600 CI box took up almost my entire trunk space to make it happen. :mrgreen:
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Re: FYI, STOP removing the paint to ground to the seat bolt

Postby adriver [OP] » May 09 2021, 10:59am

Okay, so the threads are not to the frame. They are to the mounts for the cab, to mount to the frame. The mounts are attached prior to it being painted. So the threads are direct metal without removing the paint on the seat tracks.

The grounding path is going through the bolt, through the cab, to the grounding strap, (and if you wanted to, you could add another ground cable from that bolt (under the cab), directly to the frame). Grinding away the paint may still work, but there is paint completely around the tracks, and under them on the cab floor. If you are going to grind away the paint on the tracks, it still wouldn't make sense unless you grind away the paint underneath them, and on the cab floor under the tracks. It works without doing that, but depending on how high you go, or if you want the best way to do it, that's not it. Its also still easier to just understand why this works.


It doesn't go directly to the frame, but it gives you the option to easily do so. Its probably overkill for 98% of the people on here, but if you wanted the best ground you can get, you probably removed the drain plugs and went right through the floorboard leaving an odd hole. You can just as easily get a copper or aluminum bolt for the rear tracks, and then add a grounding cable from that bolt under the cab right to the frame.


Even if you grind away the paint, that doesn't mean the path is going through the tracks. It could still be going the way I describe it any ways. I have to admit though, you have me a little off if grounding to the seat belt. That might work, but really don't see where that would ground well at.
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Re: FYI, STOP removing the paint to ground to the seat bolt

Postby SierraHarley » May 09 2021, 11:27am

So what are the thoughts on duct taping the cables to the frame instead?
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Re: FYI, STOP removing the paint to ground to the seat bolt

Postby Walkers » May 09 2021, 12:31pm

SierraHarley wrote:So what are the thoughts on duct taping the cables to the frame instead?



Only if you use that silver colored duct tape, because silver is a highly conductive metal, so it would be excellent grounding.
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Re: FYI, STOP removing the paint to ground to the seat bolt

Postby roorancher » May 09 2021, 12:36pm

There is also a flaw in your first post where you say to use/upgrade the factory bolt to an aluminum or copper bolt.
Aluminum and copper have different amperage carrying capacities.
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Re: FYI, STOP removing the paint to ground to the seat bolt

Postby SierraHarley » May 09 2021, 1:02pm

Walkers wrote:Only if you use that silver colored duct tape, because silver is a highly conductive metal, so it would be excellent grounding.

Damn that's what my problem was. I used the black to match the truck. Thanks for the info. ;)
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Re: FYI, STOP removing the paint to ground to the seat bolt

Postby Walkers » May 09 2021, 2:56pm

Use the silver first, then cover it with the black.
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Re: FYI, STOP removing the paint to ground to the seat bolt

Postby Walkers » May 09 2021, 3:00pm

Being a building contractor I notice that a Ufer ground, which is where the ground wire is laid under the pad, to use the pressure of the building to get a good earth ground, is the best way to ground. If we modify that slightly for use in our trucks, we would simply need to lay the ground wire in the bed, then cover it with dirt. Basically the more dirt and building materials on top of it the better the ground. If you were having trouble with poor grounding you could just add more crap in the bed to improve it.
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