I don't know your truck, and I don't know your factory stereo, but here's a few things:
Those c1-690x will be really underpowered with that amplifier. Its sized right for those subs, but not the 6x9s.
Those tweeters will be like taking a small surround sound speaker, and putting in front of you. They have a more narrow frequency range and will be overpowered by the 6x9s that won't sound good on that amp. Listening in your pickup is not like watching tv. There is no visual point to focus on, and you are building the sound around that. In your vehicle the best would be to sit in a sphere of sound, and hear it evenly from every direction, (like dolby atmos).
I wouldn't mount subs in your door. They rely on being in a good enclosure to do what they are supposed to. With you not wanting booming sound, and your choice of music, you want a SEALED enclosure, not a vented. Sealed are less boomy, and have quicker more responsive, lighter hit. Your choice on where you want to put them.
With your style of music, that jl stealthbox would have been overkill, and about $1K more than you need to for a little bass. That's if you want to feel it, and a lot if you are just looking to get the full sound.
Again with your choice of music, its not about being as loud as you can, its about hearing clean sound. Quality over quantity. I would suggest you using some sound deadener. It will reduce the outside noise so you only hear your own music. Its like listening to your music at low volume with the windows down while sitting in traffic, then putting your windows up. Doors are priority (1), then the floorboard (2) and you can finish it off with the back and roof (3). Each section is about $150 or so for enough material. If you do this, don't bother with those road kill foam kits. Save the $15, those won't do anything.
You may need to plan for a larger alternator and battery. A 500 watt amp is going to add 41 amps of draw. Depending on what alt you have, and what battery, they may need to be upgraded for what you are going for. With wire, fuses, connectors, etc... Even if you do this install all yourself, the electrical system needed could be $100, or $1000 if you need an alt and battery.
Personally, The only thing I would get out of either of those lists is that amplifier interface kit. However, that $390 is A LOT for that. I don't know what your factory system is, but that's near the price of an aftermarket head unit that has nav, and all the other features you would need.
You seemed to have a healthy budget with your first list.
- I would ditch the two little subs, and get a single 8 or 10" sub that goes under the seat (if you can part with the space).
- I would get a nice set of components that are designed for the same power and coordinating frequency response. That or match a set of mids with tweeters. I personally like Focal, Audio frog, Morel, JL audio ZR... Higher cost speakers really do have higher quality materials.
- If your budget allows you would want a second equal set of components, but a quality first set is priority. A second set would nearly guarantee you would need an alternator, and improved electrical, if the first set didn't already. I have a set of JL audio ZR 6.5 components in the doors (1K MSRP), and that's all I need (plus the subs). It is crystal clear as loud as I can stand it off a 200 watt amp. In my reg cab pickup I would never do anything else, or need any other speakers. Even doing 95 down the highway with the windows down, I can sing along as loud as I can, and I am still hearing my music over me as clear as can be.
- I would also question whether or not it makes more sense to get a new head unit. I don't know anything about yours, but if there are features it is missing, now is definitely the time to upgrade to put that $390 towards it.