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New System Considered

5K views 72 replies 15 participants last post by  SierraWilks 
#1 ·
#3 ·
change of plans after talking to someone who actually knows what he's doing.....

going with.....

Dash-- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113X2C/Ke ... tml?tp=105

front doors-- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075X ... UTF8&psc=1

We're going to turn the rear doors into sub boxes (deadening the crap outa them) so these for the rear doors--

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5 ... 1GR2JZZ5T6

AmpPro connected to the factory radio https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541AP4GM6 ... rface.html

Cory found this amp on Amazon for half price so ordered it..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B4 ... UTF8&psc=1

Of course I'll be deadening all the doors and putting Fast Rings around all door speakers.

stay tuned this is gonna be fun
 
#6 ·
The Saturn Vues had that sort of setup. Midrange 6-1/2 n the front doors. 6-1/2 subs in the back doors. Piezo tweeters in the front windshield posts, just above the dash. Great sound. All powered by the head unit.

Going to sound great.
 
#7 ·
I'm looking at your sub box door idea and first thing that comes to mind are that those "mini subs" want a sealed enclosure and about 150 watts RMS of power each to be happy. The doors can't be sealed due to the window seal, handles, lock rod and the drain holes. You will never realize their full potential. I imagine you plan on running the amp in this fashion to fit your current plan.
Channels 1 and 2 for the tweeters (dash)
Channels 3 and 4 for the mid range speakers (front doors) These will be mid pass defeating the fact the JL's have a tweeter.
Channels 5 and 6 for the woofers (rear doors) These will be low pass.
The woofers will be underpowered. You will lose rear fill also with this set up.
I just don't want you to have false expectations.
 
#8 ·
I was just looking for rich rendition of jazz, blues, and classical. I wasn't into thump it. It was more than good for me at the volumes I wanted.

If you need louder, go for it. There was a shop in Ft. Lauderdale whose motto was, "If you can't thump it, dump it!"
 
#9 ·
I'll be perfectly honest with you here....I'm no audiophile (although the guy I'm working with from here is) we talked several options.....I don't want a sub box under the rear seat....I also don't need "thumping" bass....I want good clean sound....doesn't have to blow anyone out of the truck....he's considering other speaker options for the rear doors.

Thanks for your reply.
 
#10 ·
Consider Focal for clean sound. I've been messing with the brand for a bit now and they are fantastic. The dash speakers in your truck can run on head unit power while you amp the door speakers. The dash will keep up unless your going for some serious high power in the doors. The front channels of amp will play more evenly with the rears by keeping the ohm loads the same. You could consider components in the front door in sizes 6.5 or 6x9, they make both. You would be surprised at the vocals the dash adds to a set of components. I would have kept mine except the dash speakers are about 2 ohm so I was worried about that load on my aftermarket head unit. The factory head unit is designed for this load on those channels. The rest of my system is rather loud so they needed replaced in my case. Also go for silk dome tweeters for a richer sound. "Hard" tweeters can be harsh.
 
#11 ·
But you get those little koozies with those kicker back door subs. Don't change them :cry:
 
#12 ·
Rambodog said:
Consider Focal for clean sound. I've been messing with the brand for a bit now and they are fantastic. The dash speakers in your truck can run on head unit power while you amp the door speakers. The dash will keep up unless your going for some serious high power in the doors. The front channels of amp will play more evenly with the rears by keeping the ohm loads the same. You could consider components in the front door in sizes 6.5 or 6x9, they make both. You would be surprised at the vocals the dash adds to a set of components. I would have kept mine except the dash speakers are about 2 ohm so I was worried about that load on my aftermarket head unit. The factory head unit is designed for this load on those channels. The rest of my system is rather loud so they needed replaced in my case. Also go for silk dome tweeters for a richer sound. "Hard" tweeters can be harsh.
those my JL's have silk dome tweeters.......thanks.
 
#14 ·
Man I'm looking forward to seeing your results. Stock audio sucks in these trucks. I had a new Silverado back in 92' and my new 19's system sounds the same in a truck that's 27 years newer, maybe worse. It's nuts! I'd like to know if just upgrading the speakers without adding amplification would make it better. I don't need more volume, I just want a cleaner sound.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 
#15 ·
RivGuy said:
Clif,
If you could tell me what you end up doing I'd appreciate it. I also want to do something with the system installed in my truck.
Even though it's a Bose system it still lacks the clarity I need due to poor hearing.
Rick
Rick that's exactly what I'm doing except we are still researching specific woofers for the rear doors. I've been told (and there's plenty of YouTube videos that support it) just putting sound deadener mats in the doors and these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076M ... 0DER&psc=1

around the speakers you'll greatly improve the sound.

There are other things also that don't require a lot of expense.
 
#16 ·
#17 ·
SierraWilks said:
change of plans after talking to someone who actually knows what he's doing.....

going with.....

Dash-- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113X2C/Ke ... tml?tp=105

front doors-- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075X ... UTF8&psc=1

We're going to turn the rear doors into sub boxes (deadening the crap outa them) so these for the rear doors--

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5 ... 1GR2JZZ5T6

AmpPro connected to the factory radio https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541AP4GM6 ... rface.html

Cory found this amp on Amazon for half price so ordered it..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B4 ... UTF8&psc=1

Of course I'll be deadening all the doors and putting Fast Rings around all door speakers.

stay tuned this is gonna be fun
Does your truck have the factory tweeters in the A pillars?
 
#18 ·
Rambodog said:
Consider Focal for clean sound. I've been messing with the brand for a bit now and they are fantastic. The dash speakers in your truck can run on head unit power while you amp the door speakers. The dash will keep up unless your going for some serious high power in the doors. The front channels of amp will play more evenly with the rears by keeping the ohm loads the same. You could consider components in the front door in sizes 6.5 or 6x9, they make both. You would be surprised at the vocals the dash adds to a set of components. I would have kept mine except the dash speakers are about 2 ohm so I was worried about that load on my aftermarket head unit. The factory head unit is designed for this load on those channels. The rest of my system is rather loud so they needed replaced in my case. Also go for silk dome tweeters for a richer sound. "Hard" tweeters can be harsh.
I've looked at Focal, Hertz, and Morel throughout the process,
 
#19 ·
I don't know your truck, and I don't know your factory stereo, but here's a few things:

Those c1-690x will be really underpowered with that amplifier. Its sized right for those subs, but not the 6x9s.

Those tweeters will be like taking a small surround sound speaker, and putting in front of you. They have a more narrow frequency range and will be overpowered by the 6x9s that won't sound good on that amp. Listening in your pickup is not like watching tv. There is no visual point to focus on, and you are building the sound around that. In your vehicle the best would be to sit in a sphere of sound, and hear it evenly from every direction, (like dolby atmos).

I wouldn't mount subs in your door. They rely on being in a good enclosure to do what they are supposed to. With you not wanting booming sound, and your choice of music, you want a SEALED enclosure, not a vented. Sealed are less boomy, and have quicker more responsive, lighter hit. Your choice on where you want to put them.

With your style of music, that jl stealthbox would have been overkill, and about $1K more than you need to for a little bass. That's if you want to feel it, and a lot if you are just looking to get the full sound.

Again with your choice of music, its not about being as loud as you can, its about hearing clean sound. Quality over quantity. I would suggest you using some sound deadener. It will reduce the outside noise so you only hear your own music. Its like listening to your music at low volume with the windows down while sitting in traffic, then putting your windows up. Doors are priority (1), then the floorboard (2) and you can finish it off with the back and roof (3). Each section is about $150 or so for enough material. If you do this, don't bother with those road kill foam kits. Save the $15, those won't do anything.

You may need to plan for a larger alternator and battery. A 500 watt amp is going to add 41 amps of draw. Depending on what alt you have, and what battery, they may need to be upgraded for what you are going for. With wire, fuses, connectors, etc... Even if you do this install all yourself, the electrical system needed could be $100, or $1000 if you need an alt and battery.

Personally, The only thing I would get out of either of those lists is that amplifier interface kit. However, that $390 is A LOT for that. I don't know what your factory system is, but that's near the price of an aftermarket head unit that has nav, and all the other features you would need.

You seemed to have a healthy budget with your first list.
- I would ditch the two little subs, and get a single 8 or 10" sub that goes under the seat (if you can part with the space).
- I would get a nice set of components that are designed for the same power and coordinating frequency response. That or match a set of mids with tweeters. I personally like Focal, Audio frog, Morel, JL audio ZR... Higher cost speakers really do have higher quality materials.
- If your budget allows you would want a second equal set of components, but a quality first set is priority. A second set would nearly guarantee you would need an alternator, and improved electrical, if the first set didn't already. I have a set of JL audio ZR 6.5 components in the doors (1K MSRP), and that's all I need (plus the subs). It is crystal clear as loud as I can stand it off a 200 watt amp. In my reg cab pickup I would never do anything else, or need any other speakers. Even doing 95 down the highway with the windows down, I can sing along as loud as I can, and I am still hearing my music over me as clear as can be.
- I would also question whether or not it makes more sense to get a new head unit. I don't know anything about yours, but if there are features it is missing, now is definitely the time to upgrade to put that $390 towards it.
 
#20 ·
I have done a lot of sound deadening in my truck and used the F.A.S.T. rings. Butyl deadener on the inner door panel does more for resonance than the F.A.S.T. puck behind the speaker. I found no difference using the inner ring. I used a speaker Baffle instead and cut the back out of it and left a roof over the speaker for protection from drips above. The factory speaker is recessed in a way that water from window seal above isn't an issue. Once you put an aftermarket in there you will see how unprotected they are. You make a big investment on speakers so you don't wanna leave them unprotected. The outer ring is the one that actually does something. It couples the speaker to the interior door panel. The factory uses one too in order to keep inner door sound from entering the cabin and coloring the speakers sound.
 
#21 ·
adriver said:
I don't know your truck, and I don't know your factory stereo, but here's a few things:

Those c1-690x will be really underpowered with that amplifier. Its sized right for those subs, but not the 6x9s.

Those tweeters will be like taking a small surround sound speaker, and putting in front of you. They have a more narrow frequency range and will be overpowered by the 6x9s that won't sound good on that amp. Listening in your pickup is not like watching tv. There is no visual point to focus on, and you are building the sound around that. In your vehicle the best would be to sit in a sphere of sound, and hear it evenly from every direction, (like dolby atmos).

I wouldn't mount subs in your door. They rely on being in a good enclosure to do what they are supposed to. With you not wanting booming sound, and your choice of music, you want a SEALED enclosure, not a vented. Sealed are less boomy, and have quicker more responsive, lighter hit. Your choice on where you want to put them.

With your style of music, that jl stealthbox would have been overkill, and about $1K more than you need to for a little bass. That's if you want to feel it, and a lot if you are just looking to get the full sound.

Again with your choice of music, its not about being as loud as you can, its about hearing clean sound. Quality over quantity. I would suggest you using some sound deadener. It will reduce the outside noise so you only hear your own music. Its like listening to your music at low volume with the windows down while sitting in traffic, then putting your windows up. Doors are priority (1), then the floorboard (2) and you can finish it off with the back and roof (3). Each section is about $150 or so for enough material. If you do this, don't bother with those road kill foam kits. Save the $15, those won't do anything.

You may need to plan for a larger alternator and battery. A 500 watt amp is going to add 41 amps of draw. Depending on what alt you have, and what battery, they may need to be upgraded for what you are going for. With wire, fuses, connectors, etc... Even if you do this install all yourself, the electrical system needed could be $100, or $1000 if you need an alt and battery.

Personally, The only thing I would get out of either of those lists is that amplifier interface kit. However, that $390 is A LOT for that. I don't know what your factory system is, but that's near the price of an aftermarket head unit that has nav, and all the other features you would need.

You seemed to have a healthy budget with your first list.
- I would ditch the two little subs, and get a single 8 or 10" sub that goes under the seat (if you can part with the space).
- I would get a nice set of components that are designed for the same power and coordinating frequency response. That or match a set of mids with tweeters. I personally like Focal, Audio frog, Morel, JL audio ZR... Higher cost speakers really do have higher quality materials.
- If your budget allows you would want a second equal set of components, but a quality first set is priority. A second set would nearly guarantee you would need an alternator, and improved electrical, if the first set didn't already. I have a set of JL audio ZR 6.5 components in the doors (1K MSRP), and that's all I need (plus the subs). It is crystal clear as loud as I can stand it off a 200 watt amp. In my reg cab pickup I would never do anything else, or need any other speakers. Even doing 95 down the highway with the windows down, I can sing along as loud as I can, and I am still hearing my music over me as clear as can be.
- I would also question whether or not it makes more sense to get a new head unit. I don't know anything about yours, but if there are features it is missing, now is definitely the time to upgrade to put that $390 towards it.
First off I've never stated what kind of music I listen to......

Secondly....I'm all kinda confused now. lol
 
#22 ·
John Buffum said:
I was just looking for rich rendition of jazz, blues, and classical. I wasn't into thump it. It was more than good for me at the volumes I wanted.

If you need louder, go for it. There was a shop in Ft. Lauderdale whose motto was, "If you can't thump it, dump it!"
No you didn't. I was thinking this was the OP. That's what I based it off.
 
#24 ·
UPDATE

After much wailing and nashing of teeth I made a decision finally.....first off I'd like to thank and apologize to a certain member of this forum (he knows who he is) that put a ton of work into making suggestions on that original set up....I just couldn't pull the trigger on it. I went simple and with known quantities.....so I started with calling Crutchfield and telling them what I was looking to do.

They suggested Infinity Reference 6.5's in the doors ($75 a pr on sale) leaving the dash speakers oem for now.....I was going to use the Kicker Key mini amp because it fit in the upper glove box and Jeff (Roorancher) had good luck with it. I also ordered a harness from John Adams (another Jeff recommendation) and got the Key from him also ($308). I had him add sub woofer leads to the harness also...John was fantastic and I highly recommend him. I also went with a 10" powered sub from Rockville Audio ($115)....put that under the left side of the rear seat. I also added sound deadner to the doors and used FireRings around the speakers.

The system is clean and clear....sounds really good to me...it won't blow the doors off anything but works for me.

I've got some Kenwood Excelon dash speakers ordered that I may add but for now I'm enjoying it.

The End.....finally.
 
#25 ·
Where are all the pictures?? Haha

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