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NBS Rack and Pinion

8K views 7 replies 3 participants last post by  adriver 
#1 ·
In February of 2015 while replacing the sway bar, the dealership I was at said that my rack and pinion was going bad and needed replaced, quoting me $2100. HA! Yeah, no.

I have monitored it now ever since, and although there is fluid on the boots, it has never left spots on the drive or anywhere and I am yet to even top off the power steering reservoir. The wheel is still tight with no play, and there is no binding. I also tend to drive in a method in which avoids hard turns (turning the wheel either direction to its limit). Not sure if that helps or not.

While getting recent work done, it was mentioned to me again (2 years after initially being told) that the rack and pinion may be going bad. I was told that there was no immediate concern however. As such, I have begun the plans of replacing/rebuilding. I don't necessarily plan on doing it right away, but eventually it will need it.

Numerous hours of research have not turned up much info on the older NBS model trucks as rack and pinion isn't all that common (2wd only). My question; is there an advantage of rebuild vs replacement? Best bang for buck regarding labor time is replacement, but are the new replacement units as bad as the NNBS rack and pinions which last only from 10k-50k miles on average? I am willing to pay the labor of a rebuild of my current if it will get me another 200k+ miles. Then again, rebuild may not be possible if the gears are worn.

Secondly, who was the OEM supplier for the NBS trucks? I would assume at minimum going with a replacement made by the same brand, unless a better option is out there. Other than cheap Chinese junk, I haven't found much though.

Lastly, since I haven't even needed to add PS fluid in 2+ years of it "going bad," any idea how much more I could push out of it? I am not trying to wait until the last minute obviously, but it would appear that a swap now may not be entirely necessary. It isn't uncommon for these to surpass 300k miles and then some
 
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#2 ·
Hey , I just had this done on my truck and the dealership charged me 24xx to do the job. My part in the payment was a 200 deductible so I didnt have to stress about it. The dealership installed a REBUILT rack not a new one (rack & P, pump and hoses). Look at buying the parts yourself from a parts store and most will have a lifetime warranty (I believe) on the rack because looked to see if there was a beefier one I could get put on. Advanced auto parts has some and you can get some pretty heavy discounts if you google discount codes a good on is TRT41 40$ off $100 Ive used it for years. Install the rack and drain your fluid and fill it back up. I put a filter with a magnet on my low pressure return line so I could get more life out of this new one. I also installed some new moog problem solvers tie rod ends on bc why not , I dont want to deal with this again.

These things will Seep fluid and work till they just don't one day.
 
#3 ·
RustedRudder said:
These things will Seep fluid and work till they just don't one day.
That is what I was thinking

Appreciate the response. My main worry is with the newer rebuilt Rack and Pinions. Granted my style is older and slightly different, but the Rack and Pinion on these newer NNBS trucks is, well, crap for lack of a better term. Im worried that the cheapo Chinese parts and design may have carried over into the parts market, and thus am hesitant to buy a generic new unit. I want half a million miles from the truck at least, and if I can get there without having to do this again, I am willing to spend the coin.

Filter and magnet on the low pressure return? This is the first I have heard of doing this, but I like the idea. Care to share how you did it?

+1 for Moog Problem Solver parts. I did tie rods at ~140k-ish in 2014 but they were Delco's, so I should be good for another 50k I would certainly hope. Once those go, it will be one of the final parts of my suspension (save knuckles) that is swapped for Moog
 
#4 ·
Yeah I can understand wanting some Chinese crap but if you stick with unknown reputable brand you should be fine.

Here is the picture of the Magna fine or magnafilter that I put on the power steering to keep it clean and the second picture is the remote transmission filter also put on my truck so that I didn't have to drop the pan every 30k miles to flush the transmission I just change that Baldwin filter out every 10-15000 miles.
 

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#6 ·
I like the setup. You notice any difference with performance and lifespan by adding the filter? I would assume it restricts the flow just slightly, but enough to notice any kind of difference in the wheel?

That and damn do I need to do the electric fan mod. All that space to work with, and no impedance from a massive fan shroud.

As per R&P, from what I can turn up, there is one of three options for the rack and pinion not counting cheap Chinese replacement.

1) AC Delco remanufactured. I like Delco, but im hesitant given the situation with the newer NNBS racks from Delco. And at over $400, I want assurance of quality, not this lottery style hit or miss.
2) A1 Cardone remanufactured. Research has shown both good and bad things. Nearly half the price of a Delco though, but again, with quality normally comes price, so hesitant based on that.
3) A1 Cardone new. I haven't turned up a darn thing of info on these, and they are only a bit more than their remanufactured ones. I would assume them to be better as there should be no wear and tear on the core, but at the same price point as a rebuilt, does that mean cheaper materials and processes than the normal cores that are rebuilt?

Anyone else have any input? I would like to only do this once for the next 200k+ miles
 
#7 ·
Thanks, I did a lot of research on remote transmission filters and kinda put my own together. Its a derale kit and I used their filter first for about 7k miles. Its cellulose (tree/paper) and the Baldwin bt8409 is a mix of glass and cellulose and (according to Baldwin) is good for 20k miles and both have no impedance on the the flow/gal per min of the trans. If I remember correctly when I called both corporations to verify flow rate and both were like 9/10 gal per min. The Baldwin filter is also used specifically on the Allison transmission of the 2500/3500 HD trucks. The difference I see in using the filter is that it filters out more particles then the one in the trans and it saves you about a lot of money when you get your trans flushed at your 30k intervals bc you don't need to drop the pan. My fluid is always nice and red. So since my rack went out and I didn't do anything to (help it) I put the Magna-fine filter on it.

As far as the electric fan .. do it. it'll save you a few mps bc your relieving some drag off the motor. Not sure how you'd set it up to come on at a set temp.. I'm sure there are some threads on it.

I Know nothing about the brands you listed besides the AC Delco.
 
#8 ·
I picked up an a1cardone one a few months ago. Came sloppy spray painted so not sure how much rust was on it. Seemed to work fine, but didn't take long till it started leaking. Noticed it just after the 3 month warranty expired. HIGHLY disappointed, and now after buying one less than 6 months ago, I need another one. I would love to just replace the one seal, but I have no clue about how.

From what I have found, there are
a1 cardone for $200+ for a remanufactured, $500+ for new
napa for $250+ for a remanufactured , $500+ for new
autozone/duralast $350+ for remanufactured
AC delco for $250+ for remanufactured, $550+ for new
Factory GM for $450+ for remanufactured, and insane at the dealer even for remanufactured..

AND WHAT I DIDNT THINK I SAW THE FIRST TIME;
1Aauto for $239.95 FOR A NEW UNIT. This is the only one that doesn't require a core return, and the ONLY ONE (I could find) under $500 for a NEW one. It has a lifetime warranty against defects, no core charge, (which means I can throw it on craigslist for $100 and its still cheaper than every core charge out there or maybe try to replace the one seal). Its also another $40-$60 I am not spending on shipping the core back. These guys are awesome with there how-to videos. Of course, they are one of the Vendors here.

Steering rack for my 2002 1500, (check to verify for your vehicle).
https://www.1aauto.com/search?q=1ASTG00 ... model=1716

Here is the 1aauto video on how to replace a rack & pinion on a 2001 gmc sierra 1500 (similar to 99-06/07 classic Silverado & sierra).
 
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