19trax95's 1986 CUCV M1028A1

So they are calling for 25-30mph winds tomorrow, so drone is likely out.

However, I have revised my plan slightly. I'm going to use the forklift to remove the service body, since I feel that will be easier and safer given the winds. And then use the wrecker to remove the bed from the trailer and I'm going to attempt my skills to flip the bed with the wrecker and set it right on the truck.

In my head it's going to work great. In practice, we shall see lol. If it doesn't work good, I'll have a handful of other guys in the shop so we'll just do it the old fashioned way. I'll take as many pics as I can during the process. If it wasn't winter I would be cleaning the frame and painting it, but it's a bit cold for paint and I'm short on time. So that'll have to wait until spring unfortunately.

Got the lights all wired up and the connectors installed.

The diagrams were off a little since the M1031 version of the CUCV tech manuals are classified. The rest, M1008, M1009, M1028, and M1010 are available. Reason being (from what I have found) is that the M1031 was also used an an EOD vehicle, so everything regarding it as far as manuals go, is classified still. Doesn't make a ton of sense to me, but that's what I have found reported by numerous sources.

So anyway, the difference was in the harness that goes from tail light to tail light. The reverse wire comes out of the main harness as one wire, then there is a splice and goes to both sides. Same with the brake/turn wire. Was extremely simple to overcome since I just mimicked how it was connected originally. Just found it odd how it was done on the M1031 vs all the others.

But here's some pics. I still need to polish and clear the lenses, but they work now to I can drive it without the trailer hooked up lol. I also really need to get some weight in the back of this truck. I deleted the rear load sensing brake valve, so without the weight of the body on there, the rear tires lock up much easier than I'd like.

So I ran into a slight issue tonight that I didn't quite think of at the time of installation of the bed.

It seems as though the filler neck from the service body is bent in an opposite angle when compared to the pickup versions. At quick glance I had assumed I could just loosen the clamp and rotate the neck around the bolts line up. But that is not the case. I didn't take note of the angle that the hard pipe section is formed at, meaning when I tried to rotate it, the bend hits the bed and doesn't allow it to fit.

Getting fuel was a slow process due to this lol.

I and going to work more on it this weekend when it's light out. I think I can make it work still, but it'll take a little creativity. I do not want to cut anything since these military style fill necks (different from the civi trucks) are rare and expensive. So if I can help it, I'd much rather not do any modification to the neck itself. The hose I can get for $20, so I'm not too worried about having to trim that a little.

So I took some time today while I was seasoning my Blackstone to get the tailgate hardware swapped in. Went pretty easy. New hardware lined up perfectly and works great. Until I went to put it on the truck...

Turns out the passenger side of the bed is pushed in a little. Only about 3/8"-1/2" or so. So the tailgate wouldn't close since the latch hits the bed before it will close. I have temporarily remedied this by using my cargo bar to spread the edge of the bed outwards a little. Once I did that, the tailgate fits and opens/closes nicely.

So tomorrow or at some point this week, I will attempt to pull out on the right side of the bed and for lack of a better term, bend it back, to where it should be. Might use the old come along to a tree method first. If that doesn't work, I'll go to work and use the Porta power and spread it that way.

Also added a front plate because I was gifted it for Christmas and I don't have a front plate mount for the 15, but this one does.