19trax95's 1986 CUCV M1028A1

I plan on removing them if they are installed like I believe they are. For my uses, I don't need them for anything, however, they are more than just a run flat. They also work as the bead lock for the inner bead. The outer bead is held on by the lock ring, but the inner bead gets held on by the clamping force of that insert. They make pvc inserts that function only as a bead lock. They are around $90 per tire though. So basically $400 for all 4. Another option is to cut the run flat part off the normal inserts and just run the center part. That's free obviously.

But I don't forsee myself ever airing down to the point where I'd need a double bead lock. Nice to have though. Also makes it so if I do go flat, all I'd have to do is add air and not worry about seating the bead.

Part of my plans this spring/summer is to build a custom headache rack for it that will add a little something to the rear of the truck. I'm also still looking for the period correct antenna for the truck. Especially since the bed already has holes for it. I do believe this bed came off a communications truck since it has the bus bar in the bed still for power for the radio equipment.

Just ordered my hose and fitting to make my oil feed line for the turbo. Got it all through jegs.

I'm making it out of -4 AN line. It'll be a 90⁰ fitting off the turbo, route back to the driver's side rear corner of the motor, which is where I'm going to tap the oil off of, then to a -4 AN fitting to 1/8" NPT adapter into the oil galley port that is currently used for the oil pressure switch.

I will be installing a T fitting so I can keep the switch (which I will be swapping for a sensor and adding a gauge for said sensor).

So now the only part I need to buy, is a V band flange for the downpipe adapter. The rest I either already have, or will have to custom make. I am still debating buying an exhaust for a gmt400 truck with a 6.5 and modifying that, or just doing it my own way and building the entire thing. But that'll be something I can figure out once the turbo is in, and I get an idea of clearances and such.

Made a little progress tonight. Got the 6.5 manifold on and torqued, which let me tell you, absolutely sucked lol. Had to zip tie the bolts so they wouldn't fall out as I fished the manifold in there. Then make sure the gasket didn't get damaged. Only to find the bolts were literally a millimeter or two too long so the heads hit the frame before the manifold would slip into place.

So I had to loosen the motor mount, take a big pry bar and lift up slightly on the engine, hold it with one hand, and slip the manifold, 8 bolts, and the gasket into place and start the bolts so they clear the frame.

But it's on there and has clearance now that it's in.

I set the turbo on there to get an idea of the room I'll be working with. The intake won't be an issue I don't think. The exhaust is going to be by far the most time consuming part of this project. Will be lots of trial and error I have a feeling. View attachment 958866

So I put in almost 4 hours of work, and don't really have much to show for it lol.

I am close though, and the design is finalized, so all that's left (for the crossover anyway) is to tack the two parts and then measure the pie cut I need, cut that, and weld it in.

So the 6.5 crossover I bought obviously wouldn't work. Wasn't even close. The shape was about right, but the angles are all wrong. And the flange on the driver's side was too big. This is due to me retaining the driver's side 6.2 manifold.

So, I salvaged one of the old flanges and then decided I'd put a flex bellows on the one side to help kill any vibrations, and to prevent damage to the manifolds should anything come into contact with the pipe.

This was the easy side. The passenger side is a different story. The angles on this side were all WAY off. So I cut the flange section off, measured how far I need to come down, cut again, then got it so that that section will contact the rest of the crossover by one edge. So all that's left is to tack it, then do some CAD work and ultimately cut a pie section out of a scrap section of pipe and weld it into the gap.

Don't mind the hideous welds, it's stainless to aluminized so it doesn't like to weld the best lol. But they will hold and not leak. I was able to get the clearance to the oil pan and trans bell housing down to about half an inch. That's as close as I wanted to go. I will be painting this with some high temp paint and then wrapping it with some header wrap to try and help keep as much heat in the exhaust as possible, and away from things I don't need to be any hotter lol.

But so far I'm happy with it.