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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So 3 oil changes ago the tech mentioned my oil level was a little low when it came in. So after about 1,000 miles I checked the oil and it was down about one hole in the dipstick. I fugured they just didnt fill it up so I topped it off and didnt give it another thought.

On the next oil change they told my wife it came in low again and to check the oil regularly....then at about 2,200 miles after that change the low oil light came on. I added about 1.25 quarts to top off and decided to start watching it. It was down one hole in 1,000 miles so we had the oil changed.

I watched it closer this time over the 2,900 miles I had to add 1.5 quarts to keep it topped off. I purchased the vehicle as a Certified pre owned vehicle from from a Certified Chevrolet dealership a couple years ago with about 45k miles on it it now had about 65K miles. Since then the dealership has changed names, I called there today and talked with their service writer and he said since I did not buy it new there would be no warranty help or coverage at all and the damage was already done so it would be approx $5,500 for new piston and rings.

My question to the GM Customer Service guys and tech's here on the site, is it true that with this known issue and there is absolutely no coverage or help at all on a "certified pre owned vehicle" purchased from a factory certified chevrolet dealership? Why did they not shut off the AFM or add any of the preventative actions as part of the "factory certified" process?
 

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It is a very common problem on 07+ trucks. The certified warranty will cover it if your within time and mileage. GM warranty goes by the life of the vehicle not the first owner. Look through you're paper work and see if powertrain coverage is within the guidelines. If so then go into the dealership and tell them you would like an oil change and to start an oil consumption test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The dealer isnt being very helpful. I asked them to check my VIN and asked to see if they could verify the service start date, they just said "by the model year you are too far out, and we cant help you"
 

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We'll I'm not sure what to tell you except to go down and talk to the manager or try another dealer that's willing to help. If you don't want to do that then call GM directly and tell them what's going on.
 

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My warranty on the powertrain of my 2012 is 5 year or 100k miles, whichever comes first...but usually I thought Chevy does some type of extended warranty on their certified preowned vehicles? Sounds like the dealership is trying to take you for a ride.
 

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It's too bad so many of these trucks have the oil burning problem though..they would never be able to do recalls on it for a ring and piston job because of cost...I've heard a lot of people that use the InTune and turn off AFM see their oil consumption problems get at least somewhat better too..maybe try that
 

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The reasons for the consumption are numerous, but # 1 to begin with is the engine comes pre-filled with M1 full synthetic, and most will follow the owners manual and baby it the first 1500 miles, so the odds of your rings seating properly are pretty slim. After 4-500 miles the cross hatch hone pattern has glazed over and no more ring seating occurs. In the old days engines were pre-filled with break in oil that had enough protection for the bearings and journals, but would allow enough friction for the rings to seat properly. Then it was critical to drive easy that first 500 or so miles and drain the oil and fill with a good oil. Now the buyer is conditioned to put in gas and do nothing else until a DIC message prompts a visit to the service center.

Here is a good read by Darin Morgan of Reher Morrison (where I trained on race engine building):

The BEST Break for a new car. "very long"

"DISCLAIMER" Do not use the break in procedure below. Do not do hard acceleration runs and load your engine hard. You don't need this much power. I am not responsible for any damage, breakage or massive power increase caused by this crazy break in procedure. Just because every professional engine builder uses this procedure is no reason you should.

IMHO
The manual is written by people following "Corporate procedure" in order to mitigate the company's exposure both legally and financially. If you don't do what is outlined in there little manual they have ammo in court and for warranty if they so choose. It has almost nothing to do with how to properly break in an engine.
Some guy takes a new car out and turns the traction control off. He lays the coals to it like he has in his little import and WAMMO, he raps it around a telephone pole. Now what do you think the legal implications would be if the manual said to do 20 -30 hard acceleration runs and something like this happened. The manual has far less to do with break in and much more to do with legal exposure.

For over 25 years I, my family and every single person I am friends with, hang around with and work with build, test, tune, design and race for a living or sport. My brother and I have built some of the fastest engines in the world for just about every form of motor sports you care to name. Engines costing well over 100k-150k. I don't say this to toot my horn but to give some measure of my background and experience. I do so because the statements I am making in this post will no doubt be controversial for those who have no experience with engine building, component design and high end research and development.

Ask 100 professional engine builders what break in procedure they use (no matter the form of motor sports) and I would venture that 100% would say LOAD them hard and change the oil often. It's the ONLY way to properly break in an engine and anyone who says otherwise has not a clue what they are talking about. Why do you load the engine? The main reason is ring seal. From a metallurgical stand point both the rings and cylinder walls must "relax" and "conform" in order to properly mate and seal. If this is not done properly, quickly and in proper form the chances of a proper ring seal can be lost for ever. Your rings and cylinder wall wear could increase; the engine will use more oil and make less power. The worst the cylinder hone and free roundness of the ring are, the harder you better load the engine or you don't have a chance in hell of getting the rings to seal. Some people are worried that they may break something. That may happen then again it may not. It may happen if you don't use this break in procedure and then again it might not. For me, if its going to break its going to do it in the first thirty minutes of my taking position of the vehicle I assure you! I will find the weak link now, not later. The break in procedure here is the way ALL engines are being, and should be broke in.
When I say to make hard acceleration runs and load the engine I am not proposing you drop the clutch at 4200+rpm. The consequences of this could be a dropped drive shaft, input shaft, output shaft or the trans itself. Acceleration runs are not the same as drag racing the thing from stop light to stop light and acting like a 16 year old behind the wheel.. You must be in a rolling start and in the middle of low gear you floor the throttle and let the trans shift all the way to what ever speed you wish then let out of the throttle. DO NOT down shift, not ever, not even once during the course of these runs for at least 250-300miles. I put the car in neutral and release all loads after the run but that me. I don't propose anyone doing this. Its dangerous and you could throw the thing into reverse if your not very careful. If you do not have professional driving experience, don't do it. If you need more info go here

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Here is what I do and what I am doing as well as the results from doing so.

Just drove mine off the lot. Has 21 miles on it. The dealer REFUSED to fill it with 93 octane. I told him that it was no big deal just leaves what fuel is in it from the factory and I will fill it at a station across the street.

I had about 25 miles on it when I laid into it with all it had and man oh man what a fricken pooch! It would not even begin to bark the rear tire from a dead stop/full throttle up to 30-35miles and even BOGGED the engine from a dead start.

I have kept doing hard acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. Its got 50miles on it and you can feel it coming around with each additional run. I let it cool down for a couple hours before I took it out again.

After the cool down I went back out. 50miles on the odometer and acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. She is starting to get a little life in her. You can feel the difference about ever five runs or so it gets a little more power.

At about 60miles of acceleration runs to 90mph. It will spin the tires up to second and the ass end will shimmy around a little now. I will let it cool down over night.

80miles on the odometer. Acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. . I can feel it pulling better and better after each acceleration run. Its finally started coming into some power and I mean right fricken NOW! It still feels a little sluggish on the shifts though.

135 miles on the odometer. Its really coming around now! It really wants to fry the tires all the way through low gear but wont quite do it. The traction control and stabiletrac are off but it won't light them up and accelerate through low gear like a 400hp car should. I will let it cool down over night and lay into it in the morning and see how it goes. I have also noticed that the rear end is starting to squat when I accelerate from a dead launch. Good weight transition for the street but feels a little weird.

165miles on odometer and after overnight cool down. ITS ALIVE !!!! She will fry the tires anytime, anywhere all the way through first, shifts at 6200rpm and turns the tire some in second. Now this is what I wanted and hoped I would wake up to! It flat ass rips up the street all the way through the gears. I have driven a host of low 13, high 12 second cars on the street and this thing will do a low 13 second quarter right now, hands down, no question, no problem. I have driven a plethora of 10 second and 11 second cars as well so I have a good indication of where this stands. I was nothing short of shocked at the power increase. I should say that I was nothing short of shocked at the total lack of power for the first 50 miles or so. It didn't have 250hp when I drove it off the lot and now, it's a total animal!! I am loving this!

I now am driving it like I stole it and loving every single second. It's unbelievable how the throttle response and acceleration has come around. It's a whole new animal and what a mean little nasty animal it is. You hit the throttle and the power is right there, right now. When you hit the throttle it growls and barks, spins the tires and just hauls ass. I now have a perma-grin that a plastic surgeon could not hope to erase! This is, by far the neatest street car I have ever owned.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
__________________
2010 Camaro SS/RS IOM, 475rwhp 415ft/lbs Cam-232°/245° .612 .612 113LSA. Precision 3500 stall, New Era CAI. Reher Morrison Heads, Manifold and TB. Ferrea H-stems, dual springs, Ti-retainers. American Racing long tubes-Xpipe, High flow CATs, "S"type Borla's. 160F Thermo.
VVT ACTIVE! Thanks to New Era Performance!

Darin Morgan
-Induction R&D-EFI calibration
Reher-Morrison Racing Engines
http://www.rehermorrison.com/rmSale3.htm
Phone 817-467-7171

This along with the need for a good oil separating PCV catchcan system that will help most consumption issues over time as well.
 
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