Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got around to installing my TRS Morimoto Elite 2014+ HID System over the holidays. I went with the 35W ballasts and the 5500K bulbs based on what I've heard for output and color. The lights are awesome as most everyone has stated. Color is extremely close to the LED DRLs on the Sierra. I'm happy.

So I thought I'd do a little write up on my install, not so much to document how you plug it all in, because that's been done very well elsewhere. I'm giving some thoughts on how my install may have deviated, adding a few details that I wish I had during the install, and giving some details on exactly where I placed all my wiring to my satisfaction. Hopefully this will help any of you who are thinking about making the install. I know I've learned a ton on these forums and it's time to pay it forward with a little contribution.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/a...+Lights)&preselect=47338&preselect_restrict=1

Basic Install Info
• Fondupot's 2014 TRS Morimoto Kit HID Install video

• TRS Install guide PDF
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/media/custom/upload/File-1479825418.pdf

Tools used
• Drill
• 1" Spade bit/hole saw/step bit
• 3/16" drill bit
• 1/16" drill bit
• Black zip ties
• 4 x bolt/washers/but for mounting ballast brackets
• 3M Double sided tape (I used souble sided ½" automotive tape)
• Socket Wrench, 7mm Socket, 8mm Socket, 10mm Socket

My Install Process
1. Disconnected the battery (might as well do both sides because you're going to be tapping into the + and the - terminals.

2. I used a flat head screwdriver and body panel removal tool (not required) to remove the shield above the radiator with all the body panel tabs that hold it in place. (See Fondupot video)

3. Air box removal (others have posted videos online)
a. Disconnect MAF
b. Loosen clamp on air box neck/intake tube
c. Remove 4 bolts on the corners of the airbox
d. Remove airbox lid and air filter
e. Pull up on rear of the airbox until the tab pops. All that's holding it in is one of those plastic tabs for alignment and keeping if from sliding around.

When reinstalling later, reverse order, careful to align the tab on the bottom of the air box and pop it back in securely. Also, be sure the air duct on the side of the engine bay is seated and aligned well with the box.

4. I removed the stock headlight bulbs, paying attention to the orientation of the stock 9012 bulbs and the tabs on the bulb fitting. There are 3 different size tabs to align the bulb with the mounting bracket. The largest tab was directly at the bottom of my mounting bracket and so that's exactly how I installed the HID bulbs, largest tab at the bottom. I made sure my hands were clean and I did use the supplied alcohol swaps to clean the bulbs before install.

5. Following the TRS PDF, I made all the connections and performed a "dry run" to ensure the entire system performed and headlights were good to go before I started hiding wires and tucking everything in place.

a. After everything appeared connected, I connected positive and negative battery terminal, then pushed the unlock bottom on the remote to see the headlights pop on. All looked good.

6. Disconnected the battery again, then disconnected the wires, leaving them lay roughly in place where I figured they'd reside.

7. I started playing with the parts until I got them to reside in locations where…
a. I thought they were fairly protected from the elements
b. Where I could access all the connectors and tabs easily
c. When opening the hood, you wouldn't know it's aftermarket until removing the plastic radiator shield



Notes/Clarifications that may differ from TRS PDF
• Though the kit in Fondupot's video showed "GROUND" on his capacitor link label tag, my kit said "Battery (-)" on that same black wire coming off my capacitor link. After some review of forum posts about this matter and issues indicating flickering or buzzing, I used the same cross member over the airbox as Fondupot. I used a metal file and sandpaper to remove a burr and achieve flush metal to metal contact under that member and the upper radiator support.







• For drilling the dust covers, 22mm is recommended in the literature. I had a 1-1/8" spade bit that was almost dead on 22mm size. I drilled the first housing by drilling from inside the housing with a 3/16" bit to get the pilot hole, then I flipped the cover over and from the outside, I used the 1-1/8" spade bit, centered on the 3/16" pilot hole. When I went to push the wires and grommet through from the ballast igniter, the hole was larger than I hoped. It worked, but I ended up adding some silicone around the grommet and dust cover as the seal wasn't as tight as I desired. On the second attempt, I used 1" spade bit and the size was perfect. Both wires and connectors from the passenger side ballast igniter passed through without forcing and the grommet was very snug, no silicone needed. (I also filled the grommet holes from the discarded OEM source connector with silicone as Fondupot suggested in his video)



• Because of where I located my relay harness, I did not need the ballast extension to the driver side ballast as indicated in the TRS instructions. I actually needed that extension to the passenger side harness due to how I tucked all the wires behind the headlight and then ran then up into the radiator support tray.



• Depending on how you run your wiring, your connections may be tucked away so that they are inaccessible without removing some or all of the wiring harness and connections. I was very careful when laying out my wiring, so that I had access to all the connectors and tabs, just in case something would come loose and I'd need to troubleshoot and secure a connection in the future.



Took me about 3 hours including unpack aging all the boxes, reading through instructions, watching YouTube videos, and figuring out where I wanted to put everything.

Hope someone finds this useful.















 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Thanks for the write up!

Are there other kits you considered?

You didn't opt for the cable that runs to the battery?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
offtrac said:
Thanks for the write up!

Are there other kits you considered?

You didn't opt for the cable that runs to the battery?
After reading up on the kit and other installs, seems that some folks had a buzz/hum or flickering when grounding to the battery. They all sided the issue by grounding to the front support member, so I went that route. Kept the wiring together also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ferraiolo1 said:
Wow that's a good write up and very professionally done

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks! It really wasn't a complicated install. TRS really has great products.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,089 Posts
Just another comment on how well this was put together. Very nicely done. I'm waiting for warm weather to get back to my own NBS retrofit...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
My morimoto kit is coming in tomorrow so I'll be working on it tomorrow night. I'm trying to understand something, your picture shows something being ran to the battery negative but you said you grounded something to the crossmember...?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
From main write harness, that gets connected to negative battery. The capacitor link suggests negative battery, but I (like many others) getting it to the cross member near the air box (see pics).

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Thanks, I just got mine installed! I saw what you meant after I unboxed everything. I can't wait to see how it looks tonight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I ordered up the Sierra 2014+ : Morimoto Elite kit for my 2015 GMC Sierra Denali 1500. 35 watt, 5500k bulbs.
I followed how eppyfish1 did , except drilling the holes thru the cap I used a 7/8" stepper bit drill then used a Dremel to grind out the opening to fit the oval shape of the plug you need to push thru it. My capacitor link did not come with a ground? So I only had the positive and negative to hook up to onto the battery. It works fantastic, so much brighter..
I wish I would have done it sooner.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top