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99 Silverado 1500 4x4

442 Views 17 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  davester3500
To begin, my new-to-me needs shocks...currently it's just bouncing around on the springs. :)

On a bit of a budget; can do about $200. I have the tools and will DIY.

Any opinions on the Monroe Gas-Magnum 34677 34678 series?

The truck is my daily; 25 highway miles total a day, 3 days a week (until it stops raining around here; then I'll ride instead!). I would like to explore some gravel forest service-type roads; most around here are pretty rocky / lots of washboards due to so much rain washing all the dirt away.

Other suggestions in my budget?

Thanks!

(One day I may lift it a couple inches, but not soon.)
(One day sooner I'll go thru it and see what other suspension pieces I need to replace.)
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Almost anything will work for you. I wouldn't be too fussy. Just get something mid-range. Monroe shocks have always worked out good for me for regular driving.
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I like that, thanks! Exactly what I needed to know. I'll probably pull the trigger this weekend.
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Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Plant


This is the only one I have on my work PC; taken at lunchtime the first day I drove it to work (the day after I bought it). Had to find out if 4Hi works, of course! :sneaky: Unfortunately, while it worked here, it makes ominous noises when driving straight down a road, so I'm gonna have to diagnose that.

Regardless, I'm lovin' this truck!
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I finally got around to replacing shocks...I went with the monroe gas-matics. I did the fronts last night; will do the rears tonight (plus tighten up the ebrake).

Interstingly, with the front shocks. I've watched a million "how to" videos; they're all the same: lift the truck under the frame, remove the wheel, remove the shock, replace the shock, tighten the shock bolts, put the wheel back on, truck goes back on the ground.

With mine, when installing the shocks, I installed the bottom bolt. But then the bottom bushing at the top of the shock was about 2" away from the bracket / mount, and the stud didn't poke thru far enough to get the nut on. I had to put the wheel back on and lower the truck before that bushing was finally seated in that bracket.

I haven't seen that in any video that I've watched, so I'm wondering if I got the wrong shocks? The top threaded part on the new shocks are significantly shorter than what I removed, but I think the shocks themselves are the same length.

The "installed" photo is with the wheel off and the bottom bolt installed.

Thoughts?

(Oh, I did "cycle" the shocks 5 times each before installing them.)


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Is that pic of the old/new shocks side by side w both of them fully extended? If so, then the shock will be fine.

For a completely different truck (my '12 3500), the shocks are also limiting the suspension travel (in that, when unbolting the shock, the suspension could droop a bit more, and I had to jack the LCA up a bit to bolt the new one in). I think the same thing is true for my '04 3500 front shocks as well.
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Shocks look good-to-go. Typically, the a-arm will hit a bump-stop before reaching full droop. If it puts all that tension on the shock, then the shock could pop. Lotta times those bump stops rust and fall out, so check to make sure yours are in place.
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Thanks to both of you! Yes, my bump stops are pretty bad off! It looks like they're meant to keep the shocks from compressing too far, not from extending too far. I'll get them replaced.
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Note, the obvious so-called "bump stops" on GMT800's aren't. They are called jounces (weirdly, that' the same term used for the rear brake hose between the frame and axle), and they are part of the front suspension's normal operation. Normally, they are already slightly compressed when the vehicle is at rest.
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Hang on...how can I tell if my truck is lifted? Are these blocks OEM?


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Thanks to both of you! Yes, my bump stops are pretty bad off! It looks like they're meant to keep the shocks from compressing too far, not from extending too far. I'll get them replaced.
Haha, you are 100% correct, I had too many things going in my head, and wrote that bass-ackwards...:oops:
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Hang on...how can I tell if my truck is lifted? Are these blocks OEM? View attachment 958881 View attachment 958882

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Yes, those are factory "tow" blocks.
Yes, those are factory "tow" blocks.
Ah, gotcha. Thanks!
.... they are part of the front suspension's normal operation. Normally, they are already slightly compressed when the vehicle is at rest.
Oh, that's interesting. So all the more reason to be sure they're in good shape. I suppose cranking up the torsion bars would pick the truck up off those "jounces"?
Yes, if you crank the suspension up, it lifts off the jouinces.
I was waiting on the 2nd rear shock to be delivered, and it finally got here Tuesday. I took it out of the box, pressed down on it to remove the plastic tie so I could cycle it 5 or 6 times before installing it, and...I could press it down with almost no effort. :-( Then it took almost 40 seconds to rebound up to full height! It does that even after about 8 full compressions, too.

Defective from the factory! (The one I already had takes twice as much effort to compress, and takes 20 seconds to rebound to full height.) I boxed it back up and am returning it...got another shock coming this Saturday.

But I was also going to adjust the ebrakes, so I went ahead and dug into those. Turns out the pads are worn almost completely out, and no amount of adjusting makes my brake pedal stop going to the floor, or makes the truck stop rolling. Looks like I'll be buying new ebrake shoes and installing them.

Skunked! Sheesh. :rolleyes::LOL:

"Sometimes you eat the bear. Sometimes the bear eat you."
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buy the hardware kit to go with the brake pads (w the various springs and clips), it's not expensive...
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