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I am stuck with a quandary, just completely rebuilt my brake system new lines new master cylinder even the rubber lines new calipers all the way around. Started bleeding the system today after after 3 quarts of brake fluid, I cannot get a good pedal. After some research i found that I have to go to GM to get them to cycle the ABS module. at the cost of $125 an hour with A 2 hour minimum. After some extensive research I found a lot of people doing abs removals. I Would like to hear pros and cons for and against this mod. Thank you
 

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After not having abs in my old trans am and in my wrangler. I can say I would keep abs. If you live in areas with poor weather. You will have those old timers come in and say "ah I can stop this here truck faster with ma foot! Don't need new fangled stuff"

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I had a 91 s10 blazer and after 6 or 7 years, the ABS module died in it. I got a quote of $1200 and I asked if it was a safety hazard to drive it with out ABS. I was told, no, it is just the same as any other vehicle without ABS. I drove it 6 more years like that without a problem, in Wisconsin.

It is funny, but I think I have only had the ABS kick in once or maybe twice on my Silverado since I bought it 4 years ago. And even then, it just barely kicked in. I must be driving a lot more cautiously than I used to.
 

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Cycle it yourself? Use the gravel road method slamming the brakes and cycling abs. As far as removal, may be an insurance issue. Also who else may be driving it. Most people are used to the ABS. Will you ever sell the vehicle? And yes you can stop faster without the ABS if you know how. Reason being is that if you are on your toes you can start before the ABS does. Your wheel must lock to kick in the ABS and your already loosing ground. If you see your obstacle and pulse the brake without locking them your far ahead of the ABS system that's already behind trying to fix the problem you created by locking the wheels up.
 

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ABS isn't that great in the NBS trucks, I believe it got quite a bit better on NNBS. Maybe it works better on lighter vehicles also, but in my heavy truck there have been a few times on ice/snow roads where the truck wasn't going to stop, and with NO ABS and some good footwork or even locking up the brakes would have stopped faster.

From a thread I read some time ago over one of the duramax/diesel forums there was a guy who installed newer ABS modules and all the associated parts into his NBS because it works so much better. IIRC These older trucks (up to 06/07 maybe even including NNBS) the ABS will pulse both front wheels separately and both back wheels together. Newer style ABS will pulse all 4 wheels separately (as needed) and also have much faster pulsing/reaction. The guy who did the upgrade didn't recommend anyone else to try it, was very expensive and quite a feat to get working, but they loved how much better it worked. This is just off the top of my head, may not remember it all correctly but I'm sure you could find that same thread fairly easily if you were interested.

If you can get it installed/working for not to much hassle then go for it. There are more times it is useful than not and you can still disable it by simply pulling a fuse. The insurance/resale brought up by apcnc were good comments as well.
 

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bleed the brake calipers all the way around with a Vacuum tool. then if it pulls right or left or feel pulsing in the pedal get an OBDII scanner and do a Auto ABS brake bleed and get the air out of the ABS pump . Check your ABS module the boards in them burn out and the solenoid coils also .
I went the route replacing the rotors and calipers and hoses and master cyn and it was the ABS pump all along and had air in it . and the module does wear out. I did a used ABS pump and module install and one with low miles on it from a salvage yard . but invest in an OBDII scanner with ABS brake bleed on it . Have a back up with a new ABS pump and rebuilt ABS module . the modules can be rebuilt . pumps have not found any one who repairs ABS pumps .
 

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keep in mind that ABS isn't really to stop faster in a poor friction panic brake situation, it is primarily to allow you to control the direction of the vehicle while panic braking in a poor friction situation. if it keeps you on the road just one time and prevents injury or worse, it is more than worth the cost to get it working, however you go about getting it to work
 

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I replaced my ABS unit and all the lines a few years ago and didn't use a scanner. My mechanic told me to bleed them as I normally would and it worked. The ABS works fine. I did use the gravelly road technique as well just to see if it helped. It didn't.
 

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Lots of people say that they can stop better than ABS. The reliability of measuring skid marks to determine crash data tells a much different story. Sure, you can stop faster without abs when you are pretending to stop for an imaginary accident. But a real one is always a surprise, and it throws in some adrenaline to really make you foot hit the floor.

Any good mechanic can cycle the ABS. It will cost you less, by far, than the plumbing to take ABS out.
 

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True you can get by with out the ABS unit . ABS unit is not good in snow. mud or on ice . its only good for dry pavement . I have a 2002 Silverado and it has no wheel sensors or ABS unit or pump unit and has almost 195,000 on it can has only had Brake pads on it and universal joints replaced . And has the old style Vacuum canister on the fire wall . Have a 2005 and have spent months on the front brake system and replacing wheel sensors and ABS module and pump . its the worst things GM could put on a vehicle .I would rather go back and buy a 2002 with out all the electronic junk on it . .
 

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Walkers said:
Lots of people say that they can stop better than ABS. The reliability of measuring skid marks to determine crash data tells a much different story. Sure, you can stop faster without abs when you are pretending to stop for an imaginary accident. But a real one is always a surprise, and it throws in some adrenaline to really make you foot hit the floor.

Any good mechanic can cycle the ABS. It will cost you less, by far, than the plumbing to take ABS out.
That depends on the driver keeping cool in the situation. If you skid your not going to stop faster. That defeats the purpose. ABS should naturally work faster than a human but if the driver is paying attention with a quick reaction they can pump the brakes slowing the vehicle before the ABS ever starts. If your already at half speed pumping brakes before the ABS would kick in to correct a worse situation with the over reacting driver, there isn't a need for ABS to start. The avg ABS doesn't know what is happening and starts if a wheel locks. An alert human with quick reflexes can beat the system because they have a head start pumping rather that standing on the brakes. If your using collision avoidance sensors on the vehicle that may be a different story. The panic driver is the purpose of ABS otherwise IMO. But somewhere down the road any of us may be caught not paying attention.
 

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I have had 6 pick ups and maybe 3 or four have had a ABS system on them and never had to use the ABS . I'd be a happy camper if the crap was removed . Have had only one accident accident and that was in a Mall parking lot where another vehicle was driving across the parking lot and got hit pulling out of a parking space . Can do with out ABS . if your old school you pump the brakes . and ABS is no good in snow, mud and on ice . its not going to stop a sliding vehicle . And have read ABS causes some accidents
 

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When I was driving for a delivery service and driving a Van 3/4 ton had the ABS system fail and lock up the rear wheels and almost caused a fire when the brake drums got hot and started smoking and had a propane tank in the bed for fuel . vehicle had to be towed away and it was while in traffic on a busy highway .
 
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