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I don't know why it is not quoting when I press the quote button

@PaleRider it is sounding like much ado about nothing??? Or much ado about very little?
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
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View attachment 962911
Insert success kid meme here
 
I got my 2011 at around 90k miles in your price range (a few years ago now but seems like the prices haven't dropped much since then). Ive done almost 60k miles and no real issues so far, just a few minor things that didn't cost me much time or money, so I’d say go for a 10-13. Best value IMO.
 
My 2011 Sierra is not the reliable work horse from previous years. I replaced the transmission at 68K, but not all those miles were mine. I bought it with 53k in late 2020.

As others have stated the 07-13 dash will crack. Mine was flawless when I bought it until I took it offroad to the local landfill. It's just a packed gravel road, not really offroad. I bought a dashskin for it.

Also, avoid the flex fuel models.It actually says in the manual that you must drive the vehicle for 10 mi after each fill up and never fill it up if the vehicle is cold. Do not fill it up and drive less than 10 mi because it will not be finished with the ethanol content calibration that is handled by the ECU based off of 02 measurements. My O2 sensors were within spec, No check engine light. Yet until I changed my O2 sensors I could not get mine to calibrate correctly. I tried every trick in the book including running 100% gas and then going back to regular and also running e85 and going back to regular. Nothing worked until I changed the O2 sensors.

Bottom line is that GMT 900 trucks are beyond quirky. Especially flex fuel models. I hate the feel of the 6L80 transmission even after a full rebuild and another partial rebuild last month.

Just my two cents, YMMV.

Edit: And whatever you do, do not buy one of these trucks with the 3.08 gearing. There is a ton of models in those years that have that crappy gearing. Get 3.42 or better.
 
All the series of trucks are good. Each generation has a weak point or two. Personally, I would avoid trucks that are from the first year (or two) of a new generation in hopes they worked-out bugs a year or two later. Avoid AFM if you can and get Lew tune.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
My 2011 Sierra is not the reliable work horse from previous years. I replaced the transmission at 68K, but not all those miles were mine. I bought it with 53k in late 2020.

As others have stated the 07-13 dash will crack. Mine was flawless when I bought it until I took it offroad to the local landfill. It's just a packed gravel road, not really offroad. I bought a dashskin for it.

Also, avoid the flex fuel models.It actually says in the manual that you must drive the vehicle for 10 mi after each fill up and never fill it up if the vehicle is cold. Do not fill it up and drive less than 10 mi because it will not be finished with the ethanol content calibration that is handled by the ECU based off of 02 measurements. My O2 sensors were within spec, No check engine light. Yet until I changed my O2 sensors I could not get mine to calibrate correctly. I tried every trick in the book including running 100% gas and then going back to regular and also running e85 and going back to regular. Nothing worked until I changed the O2 sensors.

Bottom line is that GMT 900 trucks are beyond quirky. Especially flex fuel models. I hate the feel of the 6L80 transmission even after a full rebuild and another partial rebuild last month.

Just my two cents, YMMV.

Edit: And whatever you do, do not buy one of these trucks with the 3.08 gearing. There is a ton of models in those years that have that crappy gearing. Get 3.42 or better.
Thats insane bro. Who the hell wants to burn 10 miles after every fill up
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
All the series of trucks are good. Each generation has a weak point or two. Personally, I would avoid trucks that are from the first year (or two) of a new generation in hopes they worked-out bugs a year or two later. Avoid AFM if you can and get Lew tune.
lew tune doesnt ring a bell
 
Also, avoid the flex fuel models.It actually says in the manual that you must drive the vehicle for 10 mi after each fill up and never fill it up if the vehicle is cold. Do not fill it up and drive less than 10 mi because it will not be finished with the ethanol content calibration that is handled by the ECU based off of 02 measurements. My O2 sensors were within spec, No check engine light. Yet until I changed my O2 sensors I could not get mine to calibrate correctly. I tried every trick in the book including running 100% gas and then going back to regular and also running e85 and going back to regular. Nothing worked until I changed the O2 sensors.
I had an '11 Flex, had no idea about the calibration. But I never read the manual either, never had a CEL come on. My biggest issue was rust...
 
lew tune doesnt ring a bell
Lew makes these trucks work like they are supposed to. Well worth the investment once you get your truck. He is also a member on here.

 
My 2012 2500 gas crew 4x4 has been the most trouble free vehicle I have ever owned. Bought it new when prices were reasonable. Pretty low miles for its age, about 117k.
Cracked dashboard? Not mine. Just replaced 2 O2 sensors in the entire time, plus had all the fluids done at 90,000.
 
Thats insane bro. Who the hell wants to burn 10 miles after every fill up
Some owners never have an issue with it. I bought an OBD2 code reader so that I could monitor mine every time I fill up it was so bad.

The early flex fuel vehicles had a physical ethanol sensor but they failed and they were pricey. GM in their infinite wisdom decided that they would do a virtual flex fuel sensor. Some trucks never have a problem. And I think many owners are oblivious to it. It cost me a fuel pump because I thought my fuel pump was bad. It was running so rich because the ethanol content was configured so high that it was flooding the truck out in the mornings when it was cold. But it wasn't the fact that it wasn't getting fuel it was actually getting too much. It would take me several minutes to get the truck started and I had to hold the accelerator to the floor which actually cuts to fuel off on a fuel injected engine.

I live 8 miles from work. I have never worked more than that from home and I have never had to drive a vehicle after I fill up more miles than is necessary just so it would start up correctly the next morning.

After GM finally realized that this wasn't going to work reliably they went back to a physical sensor in later generations.
 
My 2012 2500 gas crew 4x4 has been the most trouble free vehicle I have ever owned. Bought it new when prices were reasonable. Pretty low miles for its age, about 117k.
Cracked dashboard? Not mine. Just replaced 2 O2 sensors in the entire time, plus had all the fluids done at 90,000.
My neighbor has a 2012 2500 as well, and his is not cracked either.

Trim level and 3/4 ton versus 1/2 ton may be a factor.

The 2500 are definitely better in those years than the 1500s.
 
Still kinda new here, wasn't sure where to post this. Starting to consider trading up to a newer truck. Preferably something about $15-25K and under 100k miles.

I just don't have the time or the energy to work on a project like this and I want something I can just get in and go. Y'all know how it is when your baby has problems and you're not always sure if she's gonna get you to work today or not.

I think I'll stick to gasoline. I don't want the higher fuel and maintenance costs with diesel.

I left the dealerships in 2014 so I don't know if the newer trucks are all as good as the old ones were. Are there any years that I should avoid?
Get a DOD delete job that that 5.3 and you will have a great truck...comments/verbal abuse welcomed.
 
Still kinda new here, wasn't sure where to post this. Starting to consider trading up to a newer truck. Preferably something about $15-25K and under 100k miles.

I just don't have the time or the energy to work on a project like this and I want something I can just get in and go. Y'all know how it is when your baby has problems and you're not always sure if she's gonna get you to work today or not.

I think I'll stick to gasoline. I don't want the higher fuel and maintenance costs with diesel.

I left the dealerships in 2014 so I don't know if the newer trucks are all as good as the old ones were. Are there any years that I should avoid?
I have a 2009 1500 WT with 740000 miles on it. Just took it off the road due to the 2nd transmission went out and the frame rusted out. 4.3 v6 4l60 transmission, always kept up on the maintenance full synthetic oil maintenance is a key factor to keeping a truck or any vehicle lasting a long time.
 
I have a 2009 1500 WT with 740000 miles on it. Just took it off the road due to the 2nd transmission went out and the frame rusted out. 4.3 v6 4l60 transmission, always kept up on the maintenance full synthetic oil maintenance is a key factor to keeping a truck or any vehicle lasting a long time.
Always wonder about the power of a 4.3 in a full size truck. That transmission is constantly shifting so it will burn out. Now that's just my opinion which is not worth a cent. The comment is based on driving my brother in laws pick up with a six cylinder engine and that trans was constantly shifting, it drove me crazy. There are only so many steroids you can give a squirrel...sooner or later it will burn out.
 
My 2011 Sierra is not the reliable work horse from previous years. I replaced the transmission at 68K, but not all those miles were mine. I bought it with 53k in late 2020.

As others have stated the 07-13 dash will crack. Mine was flawless when I bought it until I took it offroad to the local landfill. It's just a packed gravel road, not really offroad. I bought a dashskin for it.

Also, avoid the flex fuel models.It actually says in the manual that you must drive the vehicle for 10 mi after each fill up and never fill it up if the vehicle is cold. Do not fill it up and drive less than 10 mi because it will not be finished with the ethanol content calibration that is handled by the ECU based off of 02 measurements. My O2 sensors were within spec, No check engine light. Yet until I changed my O2 sensors I could not get mine to calibrate correctly. I tried every trick in the book including running 100% gas and then going back to regular and also running e85 and going back to regular. Nothing worked until I changed the O2 sensors.

Bottom line is that GMT 900 trucks are beyond quirky. Especially flex fuel models. I hate the feel of the 6L80 transmission even after a full rebuild and another partial rebuild last month.

Just my two cents, YMMV.

Edit: And whatever you do, do not buy one of these trucks with the 3.08 gearing. There is a ton of models in those years that have that crappy gearing. Get 3.42 or better.
Kind of funny, most people consider the 07-13 to be a more reliable and simple truck comparative to the newer models.

Nothing wrong with 3.08s as long as you aren't expecting it to tow 9k lbs. If you're towing 9k lbs, a 1500 is the wrong truck anyways ;).

3.08s in stock application are just fine. How do I know? I have those :). Is 3.43 a better choice? Yup. I guess crappy could be subjective. But my truck moves just fine, and has nice low highway RPMs :).
 
Do you still have the DOD system on that engine??? Is it a 5.3???
Me? Yes to both. The guy with 740K miles doesn't since he has a V6.
Always wonder about the power of a 4.3 in a full size truck. That transmission is constantly shifting so it will burn out.
My son-in-law's 02 V6 Sierra had over 350K miles when the transmission was rebuilt the first time a few years ago. Going on 420K+ now, I think.
 
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