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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long time reader. First time poster. Not new to forums. I thought this might be a good time to FINALLY join the forum and not post about what I'm doing, but also document the process.

My 2002 Silverado only has 65K miles on the ODO. I ride my motorcycle most of the time (2006 Goldwing with 125K miles).

Just after I got the truck in 2001, my "ex" accidentally backed into the side and did some damage. Nothing severe so I never got it fixed. Several years ago while pressure washing the wheels, I got the nozzle a little to close to the hood and stripped some paint. I had every intention of getting the hood fixed, but I procrastinated and just never got around to doing it. Fast forward about 3 years and the truck was looking terrible on the outside. Clear coat had peeled on the roof, hood and upper part of the sides.

A good friend of mine has worked in the Publix body shop at their main distribution center here in JAX for 25+ years. When I told him I was thinking about getting the truck "fixed," he said "Let me do it. I'll take my time and do it right." So, here we go!

Here, you can see the damage when the truck was only about 3 weeks old.



Removed the grill and started removing the bumper. It's being replaced along with the upper and lower caps, fog lights (they're broken) and a new front license plate. Notice all the "white" residue from the old paint. When it would rain, with no clear coat to protect the paint, it did this. It was a mess.



The bumper is off!



Removed the fender flares (aftermarket) and the body side moldings. They're all being replaced along with all the emblems.















So I get the truck over to my friends house (he has a paint booth at his house). Convenient. Within about 15 minutes, the box is off.



A little surface rust on the frame rails. No big deal.



The headlights and turn signals come off. Here you can see the big spot where I did the pressure washer damage several years ago.



Initially, he was just going to sand off the clear and scuff the base coat but when he got into it, the paint was so weather damaged, he decided to go down to the metal.





Here you can see where he fixed the damage the "ex" did all those years ago.



There was a minor dent in the fender. Fixed.



This was a learning moment. Since the rear windows can be removed without destroying them, he used this 3M tape to "PULL" the gasketaway from the frame so the paint would get in there better. Worked out great!

Removed all the rubber trim and gaskets from around the doors as well as the trim along the "A" pillars (those are being replaced) as well as the trim piece along the top edge of the windshield (also being replaced).









Just before he was getting ready to spray the truck with the first coast of epoxy primer, he wanted to double check the door alignment and block sand the area he fixed...again.


Taping begins.










Two coats of epoxy primer.





Sanding the primer coat than wiping it down and hitting it was tack cloth. Getting ready for the base coat.



First coat of base. Artic White. Or as I call it, Maytag Refrigerator White.



All three coats of base are done.





Start clearing! Three coats! During this phase, several bugs got into the clear. He was SO pissed! He tried to get them out and ended up ruining the clear. And with some orange peel in the clear, he decided to sand the whole truck and re-clear the truck. Another three coats of clear.






Now for the box, tailgate and fuel filler door. No real damage to the box. A few minor dents. That was fixed. Two coats of primer, three coats of base. And three coats of clear. Some orange peel on the side of the box. He re-sanded that and three more coats of clear.






Stay tuned for more updates. Today, I'm going over to change the rear diff fluid while the box is off the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
UPDATE: 12/12/16

Yesterday (Sunday morning) I picked up the truck.

Cab without the box.



The box. I brought Donnie several cans of undercoating to spray the wheel wells on the box to give it that "blacked out" look.





Took all of about 5 minutes and the box was back on, bolted down and plugged in.







Back at the house, it's time to start putting everything back on. First the new bumper and the lower bumper cap.

NOTE: If you're going to replace your bumper, DO NOT waste your time with that cheap, Chinese crap. Take it from me. I learned the hard way. Get OEM. The lower and upper caps are from CarPartsWharehouse on eBay. They fit perfect.



Next the upper cap and the grill.



The radiator shroud/cowl/cover.



And the the bug shield.



Next, time to install the body side moldings and emblems.





And the fender flares.





The top cap and emblems for the tail gate.



Tomorrow, Safelite replaces the windshield and in a few weeks, once the paint has had some time to cure, it goes to Daytona for the LineX "renew" process. The bedliner is 15+ years old and still sticking good, but it looks ratty.

More to come...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
jmoore19 said:
WOW. That's all I can say. I have never seen anyone redo an older one like this. Looks amazing! Excited to see it come out done!!
Me too. I still have a few more things to do. I've replaced the steering wheel. The driver's seat has a couple of minor holes that need repairing. Needs a new windshield. Once that is done, I can replace the cowl and new wiper arms. Then it's the truck bed. Going to LineX that and come up over the rails.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
AmericanZ71 said:
Great job, your truck thanks you! Freshly painted with only 65K on the dash...practically a new truck.
I agree. Once I'm done, I'll have spent about $5 for everything but no more than I drive it, it'll be good for another 15 years. And I LOVE not having payments. This time, she'll stay in the garage. ;)
 

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Wow. Just wow. What a very advance DIY project.

Great job. Hope it holds up to the weather and all for ya. Best of luck.

If you don't mind, for curiosity and those really wondering. Whats a tab on this type of project roughly come around to??
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
dRewville said:
Wow. Just wow. What a very advance DIY project.

Great job. Hope it holds up to the weather and all for ya. Best of luck.

If you don't mind, for curiosity and those really wondering. Whats a tab on this type of project roughly come around to??
By the time it's all said and done, It'll be close to $5K. I spent $3K just for the paint job. I could have done a "Maaco" or "Earl Scheib" $500 paint job, but you get what you pay for. His attention to detail was amazing. He had the truck for 5 weeks (he was out of town the week of Thanksgiving so that one doesn't really count). He took his time and went above and beyond. And with Donnie, if I ever need something "touched up," he'll take care of it for me.

All the other incidentals, body side moldings, emblems, wiper arms, fender flares, bumper, bumper top and bottom cap, new top cap for the tail gate, replacement OnStar antenna, new windshield, upholstery repair to the driver's seat, new cruise control/wiper switch, and finally the LineX bed refurb, all will add about another $2k. I was shocked at the prices for OEM body side moldings and emblems. I shopped on eBay! for the past year buying parts here and there when a dealer was trying the clear out old stock and I get some good deals but it was still expensive.

For example, the body side molding just for the left front door, retail is $130. Even shopping on eBay! it was still ridiculous. Just the stupid "LT" emblem that goes on the "B" pillar, was close to $14 each. And the Silverado emblem for the tailgate? Almost $50! So I did a LOT of shopping around trying to save every chance I could.

Seeing that I haven't spent anything on the truck for the past 10 years, other than normal maintenance, $5K for the truck to last another 15 years is hell of a deal. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
New windshield went in today. The guys from Safelite did a teriffic job. Less than 45 minutes. And the tool thay use now to take out the old windshield is so high tech, even the string that is used. If you need a windshield replaced, I highly recommend Safelite.

Old windshield coming out.



A nice hole. A good time to clean the dash and "A" pillar overs.



Adding the primer around the edge of the opening.



New windshield in.



Cowl grille, new wiper arms and blades and radio antenna installed.



Next is the wiper/cruise control switch replacement AND new driver side seat cushion and replacement, upper and lower seat covers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Today was a dreary, rainy day in Jacksonville, but the garage was dry so time to replace the turn signal/cruise control/wiper lever AND replace the leather and cushion on the driver's seat.

The old turn signal switch was faded and the labels on the unit were all but worn off. I ordered THIS ONE from eBay! and followed
directions to replace the unit. Being as tall as I am, I decided to go ahead and take the seat out to get a better angle taking everything apart. It was a bit more complicated than the video made it out to be but it's done and it works. The hard part was disconnecting those two stray wires they show in the video. They're a PITA!

First, take the driver seat out.



Here is the new turn signal/cruise control/wiper lever:



The rats nest of wire up under the dash. Following the video made it easy to figure out:



The new control is in.



Now it time to start working on the seat. The bed/tailgate makes for a good work surface:



I ordered new leather from USAutoNation through their eBay store. This is the UPPER leather I got and this is the LOWER leather. Fast shipping and the color was perfect.

First, strip the lower leather off. I followed the videos from TheSeatShop.com on their YouTube channel. They have detailed videos on how to remove the seat, the upper leather, the lower leather, the cushion, the arm rest and how to transfer the seat heater element to new foam. They were fairly accurate. First was to remove the lower leather:



Next, gently remove the heating element from this OEM cushion.



And the heating element is removed and the old cushion is thrown away.



Next, I removed the upper leather. I just cut it off since I was throwing it away.



And the upper leather is gone.



Here is the new upper:



Installed:



Here is the new "Durafoam" lower cushion from TheSeatShop.com.



and here is the new lower leather:



First, using some 3M Spray Adhesive, I re-attached the heating element to the new cushion and then, following TheSeatShop.com's video, I put the new cushion and leather on the seat. It was a VERY TIGHT fit. It was a struggle to get it on, but it came out GREAT!

Sadly, the upper didn't quite fit. In this picture, you can clearly see the upper cushion is way too loose and kind of crooked. And when you try to hook the "J" channels together to pull the font and back tight (at the bottom of the seat back) there is too much slack. Fortunately, a quick call to the owner and he's making me a new upper and it going to tighten everything up and overnight a new one to me. Anyway, the new, temporary upper is on.

But the bottom cushion looks great.



Here is another view:



I didn't re-attach the arm rest since a new leather upper is coming, so I put the seat back in truck and I'll redo the upper this weekend.

One note for those who might do this on their vehicle. TheSeatShop.com YouTube videos have you disconnecting all the various connectors under the bottom cushion after you get the seat out. This is NOT necessary. I did disconnect the wire for the heating element but all the other connectors stayed connected.

More to come...
 
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