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03 2500hd
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all! I've done a boat load of searching around this forum for this topic, and haven't found the answers I seek, so my apologies if this has been discussed and I missed.

My '03 2500hd came with the factory Bose system (no nav) and I believe the amp is allergic to the cold. I've replaced the factory head unit with a Kenwood (This one plus wiring interface) and the system works great in the warmer months (aside from the Kenwood acting up, but that's another story). Once temps start dropping to 40 or below, it's silent. Head unit works, but no sound from the speakers or door chimes (if I recall correctly) aside from a steady staticky clicking. When I turn off the head unit, the clicking goes away. The clicking was there with the older unit as well. When the interior of the truck warms up with the heater, the sound will come back to life (even just driving down the road it'll go from nothing to switching back on). This has lead me to believe it's the amp internals (if something thinks differently, I'm all ears). As I start my second winter in silence for my daily commute, this has to change.

Even though replacement amps can be found, I'm hesitant about replacing with something that may do the exact same thing again and the replacement procedure (I've read) is a bear to get to the mount and I don't want to do this twice. I'm aware that Bose is typically a headache to deal with (at least their home models are) and have concerns about replacing with an aftermarket one only to find out the thing won't work. As I've already replaced the head unit, I feel this concern MAY be mitigated already. Any one have insight or can recommend a good amp that'll fit the space?

Thanks!
 

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03 2500hd
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Upgrade. Bose sucks
Shake, you following me around buddy? Lol.

I'm leading towards upgrading, but I know what a bear Bose can be with proprietary stuff from my home theater experiences. Just don't want to rip the whole thing out to replace with something different and have it not work because of something Bose related buried somewhere within some component that remains.
 

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To keep the chimes you need the PAC 1 or equivalent ($20). That's because of the head unit, and the rest of the system doesn't matter for that.

The bose amps run at a unique amperage IIRC 2.7 amps and wired in series. Its not just the amp its the way its wired. Some people say they like em, but they are only not junk if you listen to talk radio from a single output. Try listening to something like Pink Floyd and you can hear its off. It wasn't horrible for a moderate pickup 25 years ago.

If you are going to get rid of the bose amp, then you really need to upgrade the speakers too. Figure out your speakers and amp and do those together. If you need any help with that, the big recommendation is going to be Crutchfield.

For size, there are some really small amps out there. You can find motorcycle amps that would fit in your glovebox. The easy thing to do is to just mount it behind the rear seat or under the fronts. You can run the RCA cables which is easy, and then you're working unconfined for the rest.
 

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03 2500hd
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I read every single thread haha you just so happen to be posting a whole bunch recently
Yeah, I float around a couple different forums. Depending on which of my projects I'm focused on or giving me headaches dictates which one I frequent. Jeep, C-10, sxs...
 

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You can take and try out the entire '07 Bose system from mine when I yank that soon. IMO - just upgrade.
 

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03 2500hd
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You can take and try out the entire '07 Bose system from mine when I yank that soon. IMO - just upgrade.
Appreciate the offer, but I'll pass.

Just had a lengthy conversation with Crutchfield about the options here. I'm a big pusher of stock looking with upgraded internals, so I'd ideally want to hide any new components within factory locations. They linked me to a Kicker amp that would fit in the stock location and drive all of the speakers, but would only push about 25W to the OEM sub, which would need splicing as it's a DVC. They don't have a replacement sub to recommend for the stock location because it's about a 6.5" oblong-ish sub (apparently). While I've used a quadratec sub (6.75") in my TJ's center console, it's also a DVC, which would require splicing as well. The quadratec is likely better, but still minimally. Moving on to the front doors/pillars. While the doors are easy to do, the pillar is a headache. There's only about 0.6" of mounting space within the pillar trim due to existing wiring. A Polk component system (which I've used on previous vehicle stereos) has a tweeter that's about 0.7" deep. I could frankenstein the existing tweeter to the new crossover, but it may sound like crap for the work involved.

So, unless I'd like to relocate the amp and sub, and surface mount the tweeters (or I guess mount in the doors) for better sound quality all around (in addition to speaker upgrades obviously), I think I'm just going to replace the OEM amp with another Bose amp. As much as I'd to make this thing sound awesome (as I've done to other vehicles I've owned), I can't justify losing interior storage space for an amp/sub and slopping together some tweeter work. Not for this truck at this time.
 

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Appreciate the offer, but I'll pass.

Just had a lengthy conversation with Crutchfield about the options here. I'm a big pusher of stock looking with upgraded internals, so I'd ideally want to hide any new components within factory locations. They linked me to a Kicker amp that would fit in the stock location and drive all of the speakers, but would only push about 25W to the OEM sub, which would need splicing as it's a DVC. They don't have a replacement sub to recommend for the stock location because it's about a 6.5" oblong-ish sub (apparently). While I've used a quadratec sub (6.75") in my TJ's center console, it's also a DVC, which would require splicing as well. The quadratec is likely better, but still minimally. Moving on to the front doors/pillars. While the doors are easy to do, the pillar is a headache. There's only about 0.6" of mounting space within the pillar trim due to existing wiring. A Polk component system (which I've used on previous vehicle stereos) has a tweeter that's about 0.7" deep. I could frankenstein the existing tweeter to the new crossover, but it may sound like crap for the work involved.

So, unless I'd like to relocate the amp and sub, and surface mount the tweeters (or I guess mount in the doors) for better sound quality all around (in addition to speaker upgrades obviously), I think I'm just going to replace the OEM amp with another Bose amp. As much as I'd to make this thing sound awesome (as I've done to other vehicles I've owned), I can't justify losing interior storage space for an amp/sub and slopping together some tweeter work. Not for this truck at this time.
Me too on the OEM looking as possible thing. On the head unit tho there's no getting around it for our trucks since there was nothing offered with all the bells and whistles out there now, touchscreen, phone link, etc. I picked up a leftover Sony 7" display model from Bestbuy on sale and I definitely got what I paid for. Will be putting together a whole system ground up too. Really need to lay it out and do the calcs to get things right the first time when doing hi pwr amps.
 

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2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
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Alpine's ILX-W650 is a not-very deep deck, and they make a amp that attaches to the back of it, which should still fit in the stock location (IDK if you still have cut the support at the rear of the oem location, like I had to installing a Pioneer nex4000avh, which eventually failed and I installed the W650 in it's place).
 

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You don't need factory locations to hide the equipment. If you are certain you don't want to lose the center console storage space, then you can mount under either front seat, or behind/ under the back.

If you want actual bass, then the factory bose won't cut it. Can't you fit a slim 8" in that console? If you haven't bought any speakers you can still pick your amp. If you want serious bass, then there are plenty of prefabbed boxes that will fit under the rear seat, but for that size subs you would probably want a second amp.

There are some threads out there about the factory pillar tweeter locations. I've never used em, but people say the factory angle is all wrong, have converted back to putting em in the door panel, and say it does sound better. If you're running components that will make wiring easier. You could swap out the pillars for the earlier version, (different names, but same colors, only a different sheen from 99-02 to 03-06) for the ones that are smooth, or just unplug and leave as is.

Not sure about those pillar measurements, or if you have pulled em yet. I know there is wiring up the pillar that could be shifted to the side. Not sure if that is an online measurement and part of the distance. If you do pull the pillars, there is a really strong push clip at the top. I would get a set of cheap trim tools to take that out or they do break easy. Its a thin plastic tab holding on to a strong metal clip and the plastic will break before the clip gives.
 
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