Meh I wouldn't worry about it too much imo
Bradley's 2009 silverado build
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Hey. Just put a cheap one in until your order arrives. I have been having a lot of trouble getting my parts in.
Got to looking around in the engine bay since figuring out the motor mount was shot. Looks like the rear most header bolt is broken off as well not sure when this happened. and between cylinder 5 and 7 valve cover looks to be seeping some oil. I typically lose maybe a 1/4 quart between the 10k oil changes so maybe its been there a while and never noticed until now? Will keep watch.
Got the new color of vinyl in and not at all what I expected too purple/blue. I decided I wasn't going to keep jacking around and ordering $30 strips until I found the perfect color so I reached out to the maker of the wrap and they were nice enough to send a full swatch book to me.
Blown away honestly. I will try to get a better picture at some point with them spread out more and in the sun. Being in the sun makes some of these look totally different.
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Got the new color of vinyl in and not at all what I expected too purple/blue. I decided I wasn't going to keep jacking around and ordering $30 strips until I found the perfect color so I reached out to the maker of the wrap and they were nice enough to send a full swatch book to me.
Blown away honestly. I will try to get a better picture at some point with them spread out more and in the sun. Being in the sun makes some of these look totally different.
quit biting your nails you animal
actual pick/peel them off.. cant stand biting them
I agree I am a nail picker. I only bite them when I get them picked off to a hangnail or have the need to pick on them lol
Started noticing the truck driving a touch different and was thinking maybe it was the tie rods. Turns out these end links needed to be replaced for sure. The steering feels a little more in control but not 100% tight and new so need to check the inner and outer TRE next. I swear I have checked these in the past 5000 or so miles.
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I am also getting an extremely annoying noise coming from the front of the engine. I tried to take a video but the fan noise drowns it out on video.. not in person though. Going to look to see if there is a fuse or plug to get a video. Almost seems like it does it when the ac kicks on so that would be a pulley/bearing/belt issue right? maybe
I am also getting an extremely annoying noise coming from the front of the engine. I tried to take a video but the fan noise drowns it out on video.. not in person though. Going to look to see if there is a fuse or plug to get a video. Almost seems like it does it when the ac kicks on so that would be a pulley/bearing/belt issue right? maybe
Yes that would be what I'd think
Kryptonite tie rods or go home
Kryptonite tie rods or go home
If these are already going out then yeah I may look into it, oems lasted 100k and these moog have 70k on them
AFP poly motor mounts are in, here is to hoping the wife has no plans for me to be in the house this evening or tomorrow.
Would like to get those in, try to figure out that annoying noise, and maybe install the kilmat sitting in the garage. I suppose I will do doors first as that's what everyone says makes the most difference. Would like to do the whole floor and roof as well. I have 54 sq ft but that's not enough for all of it.
Would like to get those in, try to figure out that annoying noise, and maybe install the kilmat sitting in the garage. I suppose I will do doors first as that's what everyone says makes the most difference. Would like to do the whole floor and roof as well. I have 54 sq ft but that's not enough for all of it.
Motor mounts in, Took an embarrassingly long time imo to put these mounts in, 4 hours. Its only 7 bolts per side and nothing additional has to come off. Multiple really long 1/2" drive extensions to reach the 3 top bolts per side and for the 4 bolts on the actual engine I got to them from underneath. My best friend for these engine bolts was a 1/4" drive ratchet wrench and short 15mm socket, with a couple different size extensions. I wish I had a 1/4" and 3/8" drive flex head ratchet, might have made all the difference in the world.
Couple notes:
Disconnect battery
park on a flat surface
loosen all six top bolts at once but do not take but one sides bolts out at a time
The two most annoying things were:
Process:
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove top 3 bolts on drivers side completely
3. Loosen passengers side almost all the way as well, but leave bolts in
4. Remove lower two bolts on drivers side mount and then raise the engine up as far as you can easily
5. Bend oem heat shield flaps out of the way and remove top too bolts
6. remove mount
7. Install new mounts and tighten in reverse order to the engine.
8. Lower engine and install the three top bolts but again only a few threads
9. Raise engine back up if you had to let it down to get the top bolts in
10. repeat same process for the passenger side
11. I pulled the mount out through the wheel well area on this side and also arced it on the starter accidentally thus the battery disconnect step first.
I went with the Atomic Fab and Performance poly mounts. On the website he said to not tighten the poly bushing bolt too tight because it will cause excessive vibration. I was careful to not overtighten and made sure the mount still flexed easily, but I do have a slight vibration, mainly at idle and very low speed <10mph So I need to loosen them a bit I guess.
New mounts
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old vs new
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drivers side tear, hear you can see that the pin is tearing out of the rubber like material
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Passengers side was almost gone too and didnt even know it.
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ALSO I posted this topic back july of last year worried the trans was going out..... 6l80e torque converter diagnosis
I no longer half any of those symptoms other than a small flare between the 3/4 shift which is almost unnoticeable. So maybe these mounts have been broken that long and I never did discover it until recently.
Couple notes:
Disconnect battery
park on a flat surface
loosen all six top bolts at once but do not take but one sides bolts out at a time
The two most annoying things were:
- The heat shields on the OEMs getting in the way of the bolts, I had to bend the ears back to expose the top two bolts on both sides.
- the starter being in the way on the passenger side. That mount was difficult to get out.. pulled it out through the wheel well area after raising the engine higher and higher, finally.
Process:
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove top 3 bolts on drivers side completely
3. Loosen passengers side almost all the way as well, but leave bolts in
4. Remove lower two bolts on drivers side mount and then raise the engine up as far as you can easily
5. Bend oem heat shield flaps out of the way and remove top too bolts
6. remove mount
7. Install new mounts and tighten in reverse order to the engine.
8. Lower engine and install the three top bolts but again only a few threads
9. Raise engine back up if you had to let it down to get the top bolts in
10. repeat same process for the passenger side
11. I pulled the mount out through the wheel well area on this side and also arced it on the starter accidentally thus the battery disconnect step first.
I went with the Atomic Fab and Performance poly mounts. On the website he said to not tighten the poly bushing bolt too tight because it will cause excessive vibration. I was careful to not overtighten and made sure the mount still flexed easily, but I do have a slight vibration, mainly at idle and very low speed <10mph So I need to loosen them a bit I guess.
New mounts
old vs new
drivers side tear, hear you can see that the pin is tearing out of the rubber like material
Passengers side was almost gone too and didnt even know it.
ALSO I posted this topic back july of last year worried the trans was going out..... 6l80e torque converter diagnosis
I no longer half any of those symptoms other than a small flare between the 3/4 shift which is almost unnoticeable. So maybe these mounts have been broken that long and I never did discover it until recently.
Yeah my girlfriend's dad's Suburban broke his shifter cable because the motor mounts yanked on it so much. Sometimes they have quite the adverse affects.
After replacing mounts I went for a drive and all was fine, came back home and parked it.
This morning I crank it up and automatically get a CEL for P0325 for knock sensor 1 circuit. Cleared and all is well so far.
This morning I crank it up and automatically get a CEL for P0325 for knock sensor 1 circuit. Cleared and all is well so far.
Update. Every time I cut the truck on I have to clear the code. okay I crawl under the truck and try to see if I accidentally stretched the wire while raising the engine.... nope. Stupid
The knock sensor wiring would be that in the loom sandwiched between the engine and engine mount. I just hope the wiring itself isn't rubbed through or broken yet. Since it doesn't come back on immediately, maybe that's the case.
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Also was getting late when I finished the mount job and didn't feel like tracing the oil near the filter going towards front of the engine.. found that culprit as well. Classic leaking oil cooler lines.
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third thing so far anyway.. pulled the ac compressor fuse and the annoying noise I mentioned stops. Going to first check Freon level and if its good I am going to assume the compressor needs to be replaced to get rid of the noise, cant stand it. AC and heat still blow cold/hot and hard so idk if it will be as simple as low Freon.. though I do have 170k on the system so idk
The knock sensor wiring would be that in the loom sandwiched between the engine and engine mount. I just hope the wiring itself isn't rubbed through or broken yet. Since it doesn't come back on immediately, maybe that's the case.
Also was getting late when I finished the mount job and didn't feel like tracing the oil near the filter going towards front of the engine.. found that culprit as well. Classic leaking oil cooler lines.
third thing so far anyway.. pulled the ac compressor fuse and the annoying noise I mentioned stops. Going to first check Freon level and if its good I am going to assume the compressor needs to be replaced to get rid of the noise, cant stand it. AC and heat still blow cold/hot and hard so idk if it will be as simple as low Freon.. though I do have 170k on the system so idk
You going to delete the oil cooler? I would do that or just make AN lines and call it a day.
I am just going to replace with OEMs this time around but if they fail again I would likely do AN lines. I dont tow as much as I used too but would like to retain it as we might eventually get a boat.
it cycles, I can here it click on and off at times
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