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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After having my oil coming out of my vacuum pump on my 2017 with only 1600 miles on it, i decided to do some reading. This seems to be a common weak point, and since 99% of people wont pull their front splash guard off people wouldn't notice it leaking until it got to the point to where there would be a puddle and engine oil usage.

Two things happen, the pulley seal leaks or the internal seal will leak which allows engine oil into your brake booster and you loose power brakes.

Here you can see the oil leaking from my pump, this was after 200 miles after i cleaned it off.


I pulled my vacuum line and luckily it was dry so they are only replacing my pump currently, under warranty.

But here is the TSB



#PIT5361B: Diagnostic Tip - Additional Brake Pedal Effort - (Jun 28, 2016)

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern

In some rare situations, a customer may comment on a hard brake pedal or that increased effort is needed to depress the brake pedal. Also, in some cases a tick or ticking noise may be heard, which may sound like an exhaust manifold leak. While performing normal diagnostics, fluid may be found in the brake booster and/or the booster vacuum line.

Important: Pay close attention to the fluid and if it is determined to be engine oil, it could be coming from the vacuum pump. The vacuum pump is belt-driven and mounted to the side of the engine block. It is lubricated by pressurized engine oil.

Recommendation/Instructions

If engine oil is found, it is important the following parts are replaced. If not, the condition will return.

Vacuum Pump
Vacuum Line between the booster and the pump
Brake Booster
Master Cylinder
Vacuum Pump Belt



GM has updated to a new p/n "12669488" Pumps are made in china, says it right on the back of the pump, but you can get an AC delco one on amazon for $120.

The corvettes and camaros actually use an electric vacuum pump p/n 20981800.

There is actually a kit of plugs you can buy from GM to delete the mechanical pump from the engine. Here are pics https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-v ... -pump.html

If this happens to me again ill begin to look at deleting the pump and pulling vacuum off the intake.

Something for those with 2014+ trucks to look at, and especially those getting near the end of the B2B warranty as this is not covered under the drive train warranty
 

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Good tip...I didn't even know we had vacuum pumps on there. I'll be checking mine when I do the level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Pump was replaced in about 4 hrs. They said i took a little longer since one of the steering brackets for my lift was in the way. Still covered under warranty. On cold start mornings there seems to be a little less noise coming from the engine bay. So im glad i caught it early.
 

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Ive noticed my brake pedal has been hard a few times after long drives to work and figured it was during cold snow storms, just froze up. After reading this I got it again in the bank drive up and heard the loud ticking. luckily I have the 100k 5yr warranty so I took it in today. They said they would check it out. The only problem would be trying to re-create it since it doesn't throw any codes. We will see if they do anything. Thanks for the heads up on the issue Ferraiolo 1
 

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Replaced pump :D
 

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Missed this...
Right on Mike...I will check mine.
 

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damn I have a noticeable ticking tooo........hmmm no crappy brake pedal. guess I better check it out!
 
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Why the F do we even need a vacuum pump on a V8 anyway! Mine has been ticking for some time but I'm way out of the B2B
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Because these new engines are too efficient and do not pull enough vacuum in v4 mode to provide a steady brake feel.
 
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There was another post that a pump failed and sent metal into the engine and blew the engine. Said they tried to deny warranty because it was a non warrantied part
 

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I have a 2016 Silverado Crew Cab with a 6.5' bed, 3rd one I have purchased from this dealership. In December of 2018 , with 57094 miles on it, the truck had a power brake failure while being parked. Took the truck to the local dealer who said it was not under warranty. Passed on having the worked done there and brought it to my local repair shop where they diagnosed it as a problem with the power brake booster pump. The bill came to $384.33, which I paid with a credit card.

On May 7th, 2019, I received notification from GM that there was a problem with the brake booster pump on the 2016 Silverado. The letter instructed those who had a repair made already to submit the following information in order to receive partial/total reimbursement:

- Name and address of the person who paid for the
repair.
- The VIN number of the vehicle that was repaired.
- Description of the problem, the repair performed and who performed the repair.
- The total cost of the repair expense that is being requested.
- Proof of payment for the repair in question and date of payment.

I was able to gather all this information and present it to the dealer from whom I had purchase the truck. I was informed that the signed credit card receipt that was attached to the bill was NOT sufficient as proof of payment (works when I go to a restaurant). The dealer stated that GM requires a copy of my credit card bill for that time period. This means they would also have my credit card number, a list of every purchase I made in that time period. What payments I had made and any outstanding debt. I declined to give the dealer this information.

Called GM customer service and worked up to the supervisor level and got the same response. The wanted my credit card statement. I told the supervisor that I thought the request was very intrusive and again, declined to provide it.

I told the GM representative that I would just accept that I paid $384.33 bill.

Next truck will probably be a RAM.
 

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I just got a recall notice myself for my 2016. I just turned 65K this week and so far so good on the vacuum pump. That's strange that they want a copy of your credit card statement. Years ago with my previous truck, I went thru the whole gauge cluster debacle. At the time mine went haywire, there was no recall. I spent north of $500 for a new cluster and programming. Less than a year later a recall was issued. All I had to submit was a receipt for the cluster and another for programming and GM reimbursed me, no questions asked. Maybe try another dealer, or the GM people have a facebook page. Get on there and start asking questions. They seem to have some pull. They got my hood repainted on my new truck due to excessive rock chips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I just got that letter last week. Hopefully I'll be good since my whole system was replaced.

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Are the part numbers the same for the replacement parts? Just a thought since I just recently had a voltage regulator failure on one of my ATV's and it failed again shortly after on the very next ride and it was the same part number as the first part that failed. This go round it is a different part number and the part is bigger and is installed different as well. Level of faith has increased a bit now.
 

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The new pumps have different part numbers and a slightly different design. Had to replace mine the day after buying my used truck with 66k on it. Thankfully I work at a repair shop and got the part for $120 from one of the dealerships we deal with and replaced it myself.

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