[LVSS]

I posted this on the SS forum but it’s dead over there compared to here.

I bought my truck knowing the the front diff ended to be serviced. I’ll be tackling the job this weekend. I have a complete rebuilt diff that needs fluid and it’s good to go.
Is it pretty self explanatory? Doable on jackstands?
I’m assuming the bolts are reusable. Is there a torque spec sheet available?

 

[davester3500]

Yes, it's doable on jackstands. I would put them further back on the frame so you've got nothing in the way around the diff and front wheels.

For me, the annoying part of the stock setup is undoing the center link so it can be moved out of the way, to allow the diff to pivot on the lower driver's side mounting bolt, to get the diff out. I find removing the wheels and then using a longer extension to remove the bolts holding the cv shaft to the axles easier than doing it from underneath. You can leave the cv axles in, so you don't undo the nut holding them to the hub (which should be replaced if you remove it, it's single use).

Don't know the torque specs, I suggest getting a subscription to the full-service manual at a site like alldatadiy.com or Do it Yourself Automobile Repair Manuals - Mitchell 1 DIY , which has all the torque specs, repair and diagnostic procedures for your truck. It's not that expensive, and way better than haynes if you plan on keeping your truck and diagnosing/repairing it yourself.

 

[davester3500]

And you'll need a jack to lower it (as it pivots around that lower bolt). Transmission jack w a larger platform works better than a regular jack for doing it.

 

[LVSS]

Yes, it's doable on jackstands. I would put them further back on the frame so you've got nothing in the way around the diff and front wheels.

For me, the annoying part of the stock setup is undoing the center link so it can be moved out of the way, to allow the diff to pivot on the lower driver's side mounting bolt, to get the diff out. I find removing the wheels and then using a longer extension to remove the bolts holding the cv shaft to the axles easier than doing it from underneath. You can leave the cv axles in, so you don't undo the nut holding them to the hub (which should be replaced if you remove it, it's single use).

Don't know the torque specs, I suggest getting a subscription to the full-service manual at a site like alldatadiy.com or Do it Yourself Automobile Repair Manuals - Mitchell 1 DIY , which has all the torque specs, repair and diagnostic procedures for your truck. It's not that expensive, and way better than haynes if you plan on keeping your truck and diagnosing/repairing it yourself.

Great. I appreciate the tips. Good call on leaving the CV so I don’t have to replace the bolts. Does it make it any more difficult leaving them in? Any tricks for transfer case?

 

[davester3500]

It's a bit more difficult, as the cv axles I've dealt with want to expand, so they will interfere w the ends of the axles a bit. I would strap them up before removing them, and then watch and guide them as the diff is lifted into position.

For the transfer case, I HIGHLY recommend not trying to do it yourself. A transmission jack w chains to limit how the TC can move is a must, as well as a second person to help with rotating/twisting it. The problem with it, is that it sits at an angle, everything is rounded/uneven, and it needs to be both rotated and twisted to get past the crossmember (at least, for trucks w torsion bars, IDK if your truck uses them or not). I've done it myself, but I'm also 6'5"/250lbs, I got lucky to not have it slip off the trans jack I had and fall on me.

 

[LVSS]

It's a bit more difficult, as the cv axles I've dealt with want to expand, so they will interfere w the ends of the axles a bit. I would strap them up before removing them, and then watch and guide them as the diff is lifted into position.

For the transfer case, I HIGHLY recommend not trying to do it yourself. A transmission jack w chains to limit how the TC can move is a must, as well as a second person to help with rotating/twisting it. The problem with it, is that it sits at an angle, everything is rounded/uneven, and it needs to be both rotated and twisted to get past the crossmember (at least, for trucks w torsion bars, IDK if your truck uses them or not). I've done it myself, but I'm also 6'5"/250lbs, I got lucky to not have it slip off the trans jack I had and fall on me.

Great. I might look for some bolts just in case that is a hold up for me. I’ll update this post if I get it in over the weekend. What’s the name of the bolts so I can order new ones? Just CV bolts for the outside right? Do any of the inner ones need to come off?

 

[davester3500]

They are the large cv axle nuts, rockauto will have them or your gm dealer (weirdly, local gm dealers sell oem ones for less than the dorman knockoffs rockauto sells for my truck...) You also need a big socket (I have a 3/4" socket set) and breaker bar or impact wrench, they are torqued down really good.

 

[LVSS]

They are the large cv axle nuts, rockauto will have them or your gm dealer (weirdly, local gm dealers sell oem ones for less than the dorman knockoffs rockauto sells for my truck...) You also need a big socket (I have a 3/4" socket set) and breaker bar or impact wrench, they are torqued down really good.

This is the stuff that National Differential recommended. I don’t think they’re Chevy specific, but will this do the trick?

 

[davester3500]

That's probably fine. The operators manual for my '04 indicates 80w90 for the front diff...

 

[LVSS]

Out with the old. Replacing a few more parts while I’m in there.