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Chevy lean to left

909 Views 45 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  BOZ
My 01 has the typical slight lean to the left. Not a big deal really but I'm contemplating ways to adjust. I see the most common way is to add a coil spring spacer to the drivers side only. Obviously that changes the geometry on that side so an alignment check and possible adjustment would be a wise thing to do. I could do all this. The spacer kits come with two but obviously I only need one. Have any of you members here done this and maybe you have an extra spacer you are willing to part with? I'll pay shipping and give you a few bucks on top as long as it doesnt come over $20. Mainly because I can by a pair shipping included for $45.

Put all that aside for a minute because I also have another idea that maybe could correct the lean. Stabilizer links. What if I were to use a shorter stabilizer link on the passenger side? Wouldn't that shift some load over to the right and act to level it? I also have drop shackles on the rear that I used to level it front to back. The drop shackles have two height positions. I could also off set the positions side to side and help lean things level side to side.

I might try this approach as an experiment since it would cost me $0. I have several lengths of stabilizer links and I could even modify the lengths of them. So, off set stabilizer link length in front and offset shackle bolt position in rear.

What do you think?
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The stabilizer link won't change your height. That's more about controlling body roll when cornering.

I don't think mismatching suspensions parts or heights is a good idea. I don't even notice any real lean on my 2006, albeit I do have a lift installed.. Gas tanks are pretty much located in the same area on most trucks, so why only Chevy seems to get this phantom lean on some trucks, I have no clue... Aside from that, the only other thing that would contribute to side lean would be the constant getting in and out. But IMO, it's not even an issue, at least on my truck..
I understand what stabilizers do to prevent roll when cornering. Albeit, they have equal length links on each side. If you put a shorter link on one side only, the bar is going to compress the spring on the short link side while simultaneously extend the spring on the longer link side, thus a leveling effect should happen. How much, I don’t know.

The bars job is to keep it level when you put a side to side load on it. So, different length links would preload one side and make it lean. That’s how I see it anyway.

I will admit that preloading one side might be the same as having a higher rate spring on one side. If it’s a small difference it may not be a big deal. Too much difference in spring rate side to side could have a negative effect on handling.
As I think about it more, most often people use a coil spacer on one side. That pushes the lower control arm farther down away from the frame on one side. Since the stabilizer links are connected to the control arms, that coil spacer pushes down on the control arm which pulls the stabilizer bar down with it. On the other side, the stabilizer is also pulling the opposite side control arm down.

So the coil spacer on one side also has a slight lifting effect on the other side too. Not as much on the other side but still the same effect. That’s why it takes a 2” spacer to make a 1” lean correction.

On the other hand, if you offset the stabilizer links instead, it lifts one side and pulls down on the other. Perhaps a better solution overall.

Again, I’m not concluding that the stabilizer has anything to do with ride height. But I think with different length end links it can shift load from side to side. I.E., up 1/2” on one side and down 1/2” on the other.
Give it a try and let us know how it goes.
Give it a try and let us know how it goes.
I plan to. When you think about the physics of it all, it should work.
Yep, coil spacer on one side causes you to fight against the stabilizer bar which will apply similar force to the opposite side.

Offset end link lengths allows you to use the stabilizer in achieving your goal.

That’s the conclusion in my head. And I partied a whole lot when I was younger so maybe I’m not getting it. But we shall see how it plays out in practice.
Relocate the gas tank behind the rear axle and you will not lean anymore.
using the anti sway bar to correct a lean is a terrible idea. it will give you different handling characteristics depending which way you turn.

the right way to do it is to replace all your springs. your truck is 22 years old. it probably needs springs and shocks.
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I don't see how a spacer pushes a lower control arm down like you said in post #4. The lower control arm is in the same spot but the truck is lifted. Yes it would lift the other side a little bit too.

I agree with the post above. Replace worn springs all around or put some weight in the passenger side to balance out
Relocate the gas tank behind the rear axle and you will not lean anymore.
Well you know that’s not happening.

But I’ll bite. Are you saying that if I run the truck down to E, my side to side measurements in the front will change close to equal? I had thought about this actually. I thought that even though the tank is not centered, it is inside of the frame rail and closer to the overall center of gravity meaning that it would not make much difference.
The gas tank isn't all of it obviously but it is some of it. A full tank of gas with the 26 gallon tank weighs about 170 lbs, that is sans fuel tank, so it will add some lean to the truck.
I think my truck is about a 1/4" off left to right.
I realize that my idea can make the truck body roll more cornering in one direction as opposed to the other. But how much? It was stated above that the idea was "terrible". I agree that the variable will be there, but I'm not sure if the handling effect will be "terrible". Is anyone here sure of that or is the idea being "terrible" just in your thought as opposed to being played out in scientific practice? I'll try and there may be a difference. The difference might be anything from negligible to completely unacceptable. I'll try and I'll see. The effect will be basically the same as the trucks whos owners crank one torsion bar more then the other to correct side to side lean. Doing that makes the spring rate higher on one side than the other. That would make a difference in body roll side to side while cornering. I know a torsion bar is not a spring but basically the same effect. In any event, I'm not going to the road course for racing and not doing any skid pad testing in my 01 base model chevy truck. So I think its ok to assume that minor differences could mean less problematic, whatever the effect. I know, I'm assuming, but so are others here.

For now I measured the side to side difference to be 3/4" in the front and 1/2" in the back, leaning towards the driver side, without driver and close to a full tank. 40psi in all tires. Before I consider doing any modifications, I'll run the tank to near empty and measure again to see what, if any differences in measurements.
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I don't see how a spacer pushes a lower control arm down like you said in post #4. The lower control arm is in the same spot but the truck is lifted. Yes it would lift the other side a little bit too.
I think we agree on whats happening but we just word the description differently. I think I was thinking in terms of the suspension not loaded by the vehicle weight and the position of the control arm being further from the frame.
Actually the same applies to coil spacers as does unequal torsion bar adjustment. If the spacers causes lift on the other side too, then that spring is being stretched (or unsprung) while the spring on the spacer side is shorter and at normal installed height . The result is uneven spring rates side to side, thus uneven body roll when cornering different directions.
With the amount of flex in the frame, suspension bushings and tires, you're probably not going to notice using different length links.

You should try to find out which corner is causing the lean. Disconnect one side of the sway bar and check if there's any excessive preload, could be a twisted sway bar bringing one side down. Then jack up the rear so diff is balanced on the jack. If the front is even, you have a sagging leaf spring. Also measure the distance from the frame to the ground at each corner to make sure the frame isn't twisted. With the rear tires on the ground, jack the front up in the center of the crossmember and check the back and measure the frame again.

It's not totally accurate. Jack pad designs, irregularities in the diff and how accurately centered the jack will all affect it, but might give you an idea where the problem is.
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With the amount of flex in the frame, suspension bushings and tires, you're probably not going to notice using different length links.
This is certainly possible. I do know that people have made side to side adjustments up front with a spring spacer on one side and others have done it by cranking up the torsion bar on one side. Both of these methods will make the physical dynamics at least a little different on each side. I have yet to hear anyone say they recognized a handling characteristic related to the modification, let alone an unacceptable handling characteristic.
your truck is 22 years old. why would you not just do springs and shocks all around?
your truck is 22 years old. why would you not just do springs and shocks all around?
Well, I’ve heard that these trucks have a history of this leaning right out of the factory. If that is the case, spending the time and money to change all of those parts may not change the leaning condition.
BTW, the shocks are on the list for replacement
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