Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Forum banner
41 - 60 of 87 Posts

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Man, today was a struggle. It took all day to do the remaining corner, and it wasn't even as bad as the other rear, as the inner seal hadn't failed.
Automotive tire Vehicle brake Locking hubs Gas Rim


The caliper bracket took forever to do, as the end seals for the pins were gone, and dirt was preventing them from moving. The brake pads fit in their guides well (so they could easily slide), but the p.o. had messed up the start of the threads for one of the guide pins, and I couldn't get it started. It was something like 10 or 11mm, extra fine thread, which I don't have a tap for, so I couldn't do that.

Got the bright idea of getting one from the parts truck, go out and remove it, clean it up, get ready to install the caliper pins and then decided to compare the two brackets. Nope, they were close, but definitely different widths, so that won't work.

Switched to just get it done, and touching the starting threads on the bracket with a die grinder, which the p.o. had also done (as I looked at the end, and the good side was threaded to the machined surface, the bad one had no threads for the end 1/8" or so). That worked, I could install the pins to complete the caliper.

Then spent a bunch of time cleaning out the bores in the caliper itself, so the pins could slide in them again.

With the disc brake stuff done, removed the hub (which did have oil in it, a good sign), and since I had a drain pan out, also drained the diff as well. It took a ridiculous amount of time getting the short key out of the axle so the hub nut could be unscrewed, had to work the nut itself back and forth (could ony move a tiny bit), pry on the end of the key, and then finally a magnet could pull it out.

Cleaned up the inside of the rotor, removed the old inner seal and installed the new seal.

Removed the parking brake parts, cleaned up the axle and backing plate, and promptly struggled to just get the shoes on (you put them on with the two main springs already installed). Turned out I was trying to install them with the springs going under a post, where they should go above the post, figured that out by looking at the pic I took of the completed one I did yesterday, and then, like magic, it went on much easier.

Completed fastening the PB parts to the axle, then adjusted them using calipers so they were about the size of the i.d. of the rotor, to minimize adjusting them afterwards, and then installed the hub.

Screwed on the hub nut, to set the inner seal, and the PB was dragging on the rotor. This side is flipped from the other side, so the slot for doing the adjustment is blocked by the spring pack, and also partially by the axle's bracket for mounting the backing plate, so find the mirror/light setup I bought for the other truck, light doesn't work, forgot to remove the batteries so they corroded in place, get the batteries out, clean out the housing, reassemble w new batteries, nope light still doesn't work, decide to just use the mirror and my iPhone's flash for lighting it up, can just see the adjusting wheel through the slot, then need to bend the brake adjusting tool a bit to make it work with the more recessed wheel, and finally get the rotor to spin freely again.

Install the axle w it's 8 bolts, then notice the axle nut retainer is still in the parts bucket, remove the axle, set up the hub (forgot to do this), insert the key, press on the retainer, and then install the axle a second time.fj

Lube up the caliper pins and bore w disc brake lube, install the caliper bracket onto the caliper, attaching the seals on the pins to both the bracket and the caliper, put in the sliders onto the bracket (the brake pads slide in these), then the brake pads, and install onto the axle.

Finally the hub was done, after about 6.5 hours... :-(
Automotive tire Wood Road surface Gas Asphalt

Then did the rear shocks, which went not to bad, other than having to use the backup floor jack to lift the axle off the jackstands a bit so they weren't resting on the shock mounts (as the main one was being used to hold up one corner of the parts truck, to get the caliper bracket). This jack will leak down a bit, so it was lift up the truck, then do some work, then go back and lift it up, repeat. The old shocks were pretty easy to collapse when I tested them, but not as bad as the front ones.

With the shocks done, filled up the rear diff. I had bought 5L of 75W90 oil (3 for the rear, 2 for the front diff), but I must have looked up the wrong size diff for capacity, as it's the big boy, the 11.5" diff, and took about 4.5L to get to the fill port. I think at some point, parts inside the diff decided to get into a fight, damaging the drain plug:
Hand Automotive tire Finger Thumb Fastener

Then it was more than 1/2hr gathering up, cleaning, and putting away all the tools I used, reassembling the corner of the parts truck, and then inside for a hot supper..
 

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
After work I tried reinstalling the inside door panel. I got it on, but it doesn't seem right, as the inside door lock knob isn't sticking up far enough to attach the plastic knob, even after pulling & holding it up with the key. The formed foam door seal sucks to work with, as it doesn't like being taped in place, I could caulk it in place, but then I'd need to limit installing/removing the panel, as each time you run the risk of ripping it if the caulk bonds better to the door than the foam.
Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle

Replacing the external pull handle worked fine, but I need to figure out how to release the plastic holder at the door latch itself, so the rod isn't under tension. All the video's I could find either didn't show it being released or show a different, likely early version of the holder, which is relatively obvious how to release. I'll probably remove the one from my parts truck (it's just 3 bolts), it'll be easier to figure out when I can examine it more closely.

Then removed the front driver's seat in the truck, in preparation of swapping the seats between the two trucks. The deep torx sockets worked great, particularly with the one that the p.o. had installed cross-threaded. I did have a metric tap for it, so I ran that through the nut welded to the body, and it was better, but it's not great. The new seats are power, while the original are manual, and for some reason GM decided to use different seat connectors between the two, even though they use the same wires. I should be able to transfer the wiring harness between the seat and the junction box it plugs into relatively easily.

And I went out to the trucks to take pics of the two connectors and got these.
Connector on the parts truck:
Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Road surface Asphalt

Connector on the main truck:
Automotive tire Wood Bumper Gas Automotive exterior

At this point, I realized, duh, the end of the connector looks different because on the main truck, the p.o. ripped the seat harness out of the seat connector, which is still inseted in the truck-side of the connector. That looks to be the same, and this would explain why the truck didn't register the seat belt being connected.

And a pic of the wheels on the parts truck:
Tire Wheel Plant Automotive tire Vehicle

17" steel rims w oversize tires. I normally get tires on by sitting in front of the wheel, lifting it with the front of my feet and then pushing it onto the studs with my hands, but these are too heavy for that if I'm at all tired...
 

·
Premium Member
2010 GMC All Terrain 4x4 5.3 210,000 mi
Joined
·
18,256 Posts
Some rod clips look like the upper four pictured below. Those you rotate off the rod and then the rod will pull out of the end. But I believe on our years, for the outside handles, the clips look like the bottom two. And there is a z bend on the rod itself that holds it on. With those, you remove the bolts holding the door handle and when it is loose, you can then pivot the entire handle to remove the rod from off the handle/clip.

Font Rectangle Art Gas Symbol
 

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Some rod clips look like the upper four pictured below. Those you rotate off the rod and then the rod will pull out of the end. But I believe on our years, for the outside handles, the clips look like the bottom two. And there is a z bend on the rod itself that holds it on. With those, you remove the bolts holding the door handle and when it is loose, you can then pivot the entire handle to remove the rod from off the handle/clip.

View attachment 951173
It's not like those. There's a z-bend in the top, that goes into the handle, but the bottom is threaded, and the connector splits in half to hold the threaded portion. I need to split it to adjust the rod so it's not pulling the lever on the door latch in the 'resting' position.
 

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Another long day, where everything took twice as long as expect. Worked on getting the front seats swapped between the two trucks, and cleaning up the interior.

Cleaning just got bigger and bigger as I went along. Started with just wanted to clean the door entry points, the edge where the door sills go were all filled with dirt, so much that 3 of the sill trim plates couldn't be installed. Started blowing them out with compressed air, and that worked ok for getting it loose and out of the crevises, but the dirt was going both over and under the floor matt. So, pulled the rear seats and seat belts, dash support and then out came the matt. Blew dirt from front to back, then vacuumed, repeated a couple of times to get the majority of the dirt out.
Before (had already cleared a bunch of dirt/mud from the near door sill area):
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Tread Wheel
Automotive tire Road surface Wood Flooring Floor

After:
Automotive tire Gas Metal Motor vehicle Auto part
Wood Automotive tire Floor Hood Gas

While the rear pillar trim was off, I transferred over the remote receiver from the parts truck. No idea yet if it'll work as is, or if it can be reprogrammed to work, but I'll give it a shot later.
Automotive tire Wood Tread Rim Tints and shades

After cleaning, tested the new driver's seat to make sure the power functions worked. They didn't. Dug out the PS100, seat plug was getting ground, but not power, and power pin was pretty green. Dug through FSM wiring diagrams, found the plug/pin in the junction box for the power wire, that was getting power. Tried backprobing the seat connector pin, while doing that, this happened:
Wood Finger Gas Electric blue Wire

The pin was shot and the remainder didn't want to come out of the plug. Fortunately, the plug and pins were ok in the parts truck, so I depinned the plug, cut off and spliced on the end of the bad wire, jammed the wires into the new plug. Plugged in the seat again, and like magic, it worked. It took a ridiculous amount of time, both figuring out how the pins came out, and then actually doing it.
Wood Helmet Gas Wire Auto part

Then plugged the 2" hole the p.o. left open on the passenger side. I used a hole saw to make a couple discs just larger than the hole, loaded up one of them with a bunch of automotive goop, putting it on the insde of the truck, put the other disc on the outside of the truck, then bolted them together
Automotive tire Gas Metal Motor vehicle Auto part
Automotive tire Road surface Wood Asphalt Gas

With the seat working, pulled it out, banged off all the loose dirt from the floor matt, reinstalled it, reinstalled the dash support, 4wd housing, trim pieces, door seals (need to replace both front ones). I did leave out the rear seats & seat belts, as I plan on making shelves to hold tools and equipment. Installed the center console and then both front seats (passenger seat is manual, so nothing to test)

continued...
 

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
The result:
Motor vehicle Car Vehicle Car seat cover Mode of transport
Motor vehicle Car Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive exterior

The interior isn't done, but it's getting there. Need to find a decent steering wheel, transfer over SWC, radio and the universal garage door opener dome light assembly from the parts truck, replace door seals and make shelves for the back, and figure out the driver's door. And the driver's seat tilt lever...
 

·
Registered
2015 Sierra SLE 5.3 4x4
Joined
·
7,620 Posts
Holy shit that interior is disgusting
 
  • Haha
Reactions: RedSLEd

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
Yeah, it'd look better if the floor was washed. The truck was used hard and put away wet...

Edit: In hindsight, I should have pressure washed the matt when I took it out.
 

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
After work, I did a bit more on the truck, truck was reporting P2227 and P2228 codes, for barometric sensor, the wiring and connector to it looked in reasonable shape, so I swapped over the one from the parts truck, and no more codes, and Tech2Win was showing a pressure, so I think that's fixed. Need to do the same for the HVAC mode door actuator (B3779), and the front end SRS sensor (B0091).

I spent some time poking around in Tech2Win, looking for the remote control receiver module, RCDLR, to see if the module I plugged in could even be accessed, but I couldn't find where it might be. Normally I would expect some entry either saying NO COMM if it's not present, or some dtc code, but I couldn't find the entry in any list for body/chassis/vehicle.

Anyone know what/where it should appear as to be accessed via Tech2Win?
 

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
And to follow up, while I was outside having a quick check to see if I should buy replacement bump stops for the front end, I did a quick check of the front end SRS sensor and...it's not physically present. Parts truck has the module in the center bottom of the radiator frame (forget the right name for it right now), main truck just has an empty slot.
 

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Started working on fixing the SRS B0091 code. Looked at the truck, no sensor, and the wiring harness/connector was there, the connector had been replaced, and it was taped up. Took the one off the parts truck and installed it, still got the same code. Started the diagnostic process, the reference pin wasn't connected to ground, cut off the connector/patch wires they had, replaced with a section of the parts truck harness w connector, then got a good connection to ground, but stil get the code. At this point, I called it quits for fixing it for now, as the next step is to rip out the seats to test the wiring between the SRS computer under the jump seat (so all the front seats need to come out) and the connector up front.

Decided to swap in the CD/MP3/AUXIN player from the parts truck (UUI rpo code), one level up from the base radio the truck has. It's pretty straightforward to swap the radio, so did it, comes up as locked (expected, as the radio is vin locked), poked through tech2win, couldn't find anything in it for clearing/reseting/learning the radio's vin, so I switched to SPS (gm's vehicle programming setup), and did a replace & reprogram calibration on the radio, selecting the right options, and that got it working.

For a lark, I also tried reprogramming the RDCLR (remote control receiver), but SPS returned a programming error (most likely because for the truck's VIN, it's not supposed to have one), so I'll have to figure out how to get a VCI code to enable it...

At this point, things hadn't gone too bad, but I had only spent a couple hours working. Now, I made a mistake, deciding to add the USB port in the dash, that connects to the radio, to plug in USB drives/MP3 players to play music through the system (I was hoping to at least be able to charge my iPhone with it, if not play audio through the system). Both the wiring harness and the USB plug fought tooth and nail to not come out.

I googled for videos of how the usb port comes out, tried duplicating where they pressed for releasing it, googled for pics of the usb port to try to see how the latch system works (couldn't really see it anywhere). After a lot of frustration, I finally brute forced the whole port out in one shot (it's supposed to come out in 2 pieces, the center part with the USB port first, then the out holder w cover).

Then to the harness between the radio and the usb port. The harness itself is just a usb cable, w mini-usb connectors on each end, with gm plastic connectors around each end to add positive retainers so they can't come out/rattle. But, the middle section of the cable is wrapped/taped up with the main radio/instrument panel harness and that section of it is zip tied behind the main dash plastic frame that goes across the width of the truck. Try hitting a couple of electronics/computer shops, they have USB cables with one usb-mini end, but none with them on both ends. Go back to the truck, go full train wreck on it, pull the dash frame out. unwrap the harness, pull the cable out, rewrap the cable in gm's cloth tape so it won't rattle, and install it in the main truck.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Automotive design
Motor vehicle Gauge Automotive design Speedometer Steering wheel

Radio still works, go inside, get a usb-lightning cable, plug it in w my iphone, nothing. Doesn't charge it, doesn't register with the radio, doesn't play audio.
Go back inside, find a usb drive, put on some random mp3 files, plug it in, yay, that works. The parts truck interior is now a disaster area with bits of the dash everywhere.

Total cost: a 7mm 1/4" socket, lost in the hvac ducts while taking the dash apart, and the case for my iPhone is MIA...

:-(
 

·
Registered
2015 Sierra SLE 5.3 4x4
Joined
·
7,620 Posts
Actual shot of you listening to music in that truck...

Paint Art Cartoon Painting Happy




:D
 
  • Haha
Reactions: davester3500

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #54 ·
And to follow up on the remote receiver setup, GM did offer a kit for installing remote door locks & starter, if your truck didn't come with it, for GMT900's, but it's been discontinued (gm #17802087), so I'll probably just go with a cheap third party system.
 

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 ·
After work, decided I did want to fix that B0091 air bag code, so ripped out the interior to get access to the SRS computer to go through the diagnostic process for the code.

While removing the interior, I noticed the antenna had a custom extension, I guess for improved reception?
Sky Cloud Plant Building Window

It's a regular antenna, with a second antenna attached to the top of it, using some wire wrapped around both to hold it on...removed...

So, w the interior removed, restarted the diagostic process from the beginning, printing it out so I don't have to keep running back and forth to the computer, and midway through the process, I notice that for measuring resistance to ground, the PS100 reports 0 ohms whenever the probe touches ground with the battery connected, regardless of what the alligator clip for the other side of the circuit being measured is connected to.

Restart the process again, disconnecting the battery as necessary to test properly, and find the reference ground wire to the front sensor is broken somewhere. From the wiring diagram, see that there are two connectors between the sensor and the computer, test the resistance between the various connections to find the wire that is broken, it's in the annoying section, the wire that goes from a connector near the fuse box to a connector inside the cab. Start unwrapping the harness at the fuse box, just because it looks the sketchiest in that area, and get lucky. About 8 inches from the connector, I find this (orange wire, the insulation is rubbed away, and wire is corroded and broken):
Wood Electrical wiring Terrestrial plant Rope Gas

Not sure how that happens inside wires that are taped together, then have plastic shielding around the taped wires, without any sign of rubbing on the plastic shielding...

Unpin the wire from the connector, and cut that section away, get a matching section from the parts truck and attach it (so there's just one crimp joint), connect everything back up, turn the truck on and...

SRS light is still on. :-(

Get the code reader out, clear codes, restart the truck, read codes, and get a new bundle of SRS codes:
B0012-0D
B0015-0D
B0019-0D
B0022-0D
These are all "some component" circuit loop has high resistance

None of them happened prior to doing this, so it's probably some connector not quite right, or something along those lines, rather than the SRS computer going on to find a bunch of new but pre-existing problems now that the front sensor problem has been fixed.

But, good news, the B0091 code isn't being reported!

I'll work on resolving the new codes tomorrow, and pressure wash the floor matt so it doesn't look so terrible.

The parts truck also has a plastic floor matt, but underneath it, the truck also has fairly nice black carpet (the matt seems to have been installed before the truck was used, as it's pretty clean). I did consider swapping it in, but it's just going to get pretty dirty, as this is a work truck, so I decided against it.
 

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Oh yeah, and I started off with pumping out some of the gear oil in the rear diff and installing the rear wheels. I had over-filled it, as I did it with the rear end noticeably higher than the front end (it was up on jack stands, ground was higher in the rear and the rear wheels would be about 4-5 inches off the ground, with the fronts probably on the ground).
 

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Went through the diagnostics for the codes, looking at the live data from the SDM (airbag computer), all the loops were between 2-4 ohms like they are supposed to be, so there was another B101D code, for an SDM internal fault. Given that the codes would get generated whenever the computer was restarted, but wouldn't generated them when they were cleared, I decided to replace the SDM with the one from the parts truck. Swapped it in, literally spilled the appropriate amount of blood, reprogrammed it, and no codes and no SRS light, so I would say the problem is solved. Need to re-wrap the wiring harnesses, but will clean the various interior bits first, so they can dry off while I am wrapping.

While currently there are no codes, I think there may still be one for a wheel sensor, that only may get set from driving around, and perhaps the trailer brake system also has one (the switch seems flakely.
 

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 ·
To follow up on the SDM issue, when I was done fixing it, the interior was stripped, and I was sitting on the floor, so I didn't have a clear view of the IP. I thought I had looked at it, and seen that the SRS light was out, but I'm not totally sure about that, but it definitely had no codes. So, I continued on, wrapped up the harnesses, bolted down the front impact sensor, reinstalled the interior (with much cleaner floor matt), installed the wheels and took it for a spin around the block again. And for some reason, the SRS light was flashing. Get out the Autel code reader, read SRS codes, none. Clear DTCs, lights still flashing, still no codes. Get the computer w Tech2Win, connect it up, and...midway through scanning Windows crashes, I force restart the computer, Windows needs to restore to a previous checkpoint, which naturally is from before Tech2Win et al was installed... :-( So, go inside, reinstall all the various windows updates, reinstalled GM's software (naturally had to redownload the 1/2Gb installer because the installer file was also after the checkpoint), get it all working, go back out to the truck, same deal, SRS light flashing, but zero codes. Poke around in special functions, there's a "configure new SDM", I run the process (a momentary process), and boom, light goes out, still no SRS codes. Yay. I'll see tomorrow if it remains good.

Pic of the floor matt prior to pressure washing:
Automotive tire Road surface Gas Composite material Automotive wheel system

After washing/reinstalling. The light is a really warm bulb, so it makes it look worse than being in person, but it's still not new-looking. Also washed most of the lower trim pieces, so they also look better, but not great.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Car Automotive exterior
Automotive tire Wood Tread Motor vehicle Automotive exterior

And one step back, when doing the SRS check, I found that the ecm is reporting a P0455 code, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Large Leak Detected. And yes, I checked that the fill cap was tight.
 

·
Registered
2004 Sierra 3500 6.0L, auto, extended cab, cab&chassis, upgraded to 4wd
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Started today with fixing the right rear taillights, the parking lights didn't work but brake/turn/reverse did, after some testing it was just a bulb problem, so off to the store to get some, and new bulbs fixed the problem.

Installed the front bumper, spent some time figuring out the fog light wiring harness (part truck has a nicer bumper w fog lights, vs the main truck w/o them), I swapped the interior panel w fog light switch awhile ago, and the button triggers the relay & powers the fuse in the fuse block, but no wires going to the front to plug in. I'll take out the front lights wiring harness from the parts truck and look at it's condition, and then either swap it on the truck or just pull out the fog light wiring, wrap it up and run it as a separate harness zip tied to the current one.

The power door lock switch on the driver's door had been working fine, but it seemed that after doing the interior swapping/wiring work, it stopped, so I assumed it was some kind of wiring problem that I caused. I printed out the wiring diagrams, and pinouts for the IP fuse box plugs (as that's where the door harness plugs into), but IDK why, the pins on the plug just didn't match what the printouts said they should be. I'm by no means an expert on reading the diagrams, but all the other connectors I've looked at did, so it was frustrating, and I still don't understand why they don't appear to match.

Anyway, I moved to where I should have started, namely, the actual switch in the door panel, looked up the pinout for that plug, it did match the the online diagram, used my autel ps100 to test activating it in both directions (it can connect the probe tip to either ground or power), and connecting the unlock pin to ground, unlocked everything, and connecting the lock pin to ground locked everything, so it's just a switch problem. I took the switch out, then apart, and cleaned the contacts on the PCB a bit, and reassembled, it helped, but after using the switch a couple of times, it was becoming more and more intermittent, so I'll just get another switch.
 
41 - 60 of 87 Posts
Top