Check your starter.
Dead battery?
I been having my truck slowly and barely start every morning and it seems to be getting worse. Couple days ago i was at my lunch and used 20 minutes listening to music and i tried turning it on and it didnt turn on just click click click, ok. The next time it didnt start i just let the key in the ignition for about 10 minutes and it cranked but couldnt turn the truck on so it just did the click click thing again, no start. The following morning i tried starting it and it did the same thing cranked 3 times but really slow and long cranks followed by the clicks and it didnt start. Today i used a multimeter on the battery and it read 12.2v. I tried turning it on and it didnt turn on again. I hooked up a battery charger and it read as it was fully charged. I used the emergency quick start option and it did start. So i checked the volts and it read 14.4. Do i just have a battery that lost its cranking power?
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But when i used some jumper cables the truck started quick and fast, no slow cranks.
i also have two amps and 2 subs. When i use my power window button the volts meter on the cluster drops between 9v and the 14v mark.
i also have two amps and 2 subs. When i use my power window button the volts meter on the cluster drops between 9v and the 14v mark.
My opinion is that your battery is on its last leg. You should have it checked.
I'd say your battery is shot.
Put your multimeter on it and have someone crank it. I'd bet the voltage drops significantly.
Put your multimeter on it and have someone crank it. I'd bet the voltage drops significantly.
I would have replaced it a few days ago when it was slow to crank. Stop jump starting the darn thing and go buy a new battery.
Only other cause could be some new parasitic drain. But unless there was some recent electrical work done or new gadget installed, it is going to be a new battery solution.
The classic description of a bad battery. The solution is very inexpensive...a new battery.
Get a new battery and check to make sure your system isn't drawing constant power. Where'd you wire in the remote turn on? Might want to run a capacitor as well seeing how much of a voltage drop you get while running the system
It's your battery. I was having the same issue with my 2010 Sierra. It would sluggishly crank a few times then fire up. One thing I noticed was that my air was always on at 74 or 78 degrees(one of the two is factory set I just can't remember which) even if I didn't have it on when I shut off the truck. Took it to Auto Zone and sure enough it needed a new battery.
Yep. Once your AC starts showing a different temp than you left, it's time for a new battery. I got the AGM Advance Auto platinum or whatever. Seems to be holding up well.CCorbin1030 said:It's your battery. I was having the same issue with my 2010 Sierra. It would sluggishly crank a few times then fire up. One thing I noticed was that my air was always on at 74 or 78 degrees(one of the two is factory set I just can't remember which) even if I didn't have it on when I shut off the truck. Took it to Auto Zone and sure enough it needed a new battery.
Maybe with all the after market stuff (amps & subs) it might be a good idea for a second battery hooked up in parallel for more reserve do some searching to see if applicable just a thought? Along with getting existing battery tested with a load test?
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