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I didn't see any how to's on replacing the door lock actuator so I'd thought I would post one up since I've done three on my truck. I noticed they were going bad when the locks would no longer work after sitting in a parking lot and heating up. They would only work during the early morning or night and I got tired of telling my passengers to lock the doors. I can post up some part #'s for all four doors if needed. Here goes:

Requirements
Skill level: Anyone
Time: Less than 30 minutes

Tools needed
10 mm socket
T30 torx
Flathead screwdriver

First remove the door panel by popping off the plastic plates behind both handles and the lock using a very small flathead. Unbolt the 3 bolts holding the screws and pry off the panel
photo (2).jpg

Unhook any switch(es) under the switch panel depending on which door it is. Spin the panel upside down and locate the cable that attaches to the handle. Push both tabs in and pull off the cable. It should have a small metal ball at the end.
photo (3).jpg

Look inside the door panel and find where the exterior handle latch attaches to the actuator. It should be a metal rod that is held in place by a yellow plastic piece. Using your fingers, pop the yellow plastic free from the rod.
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Once the handle rod is free, use the t30 bit to remove all three screws and put them aside.
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Once the actuator is free from the door it should be hanging by the interior lock rod. Pull the actuator so you can get a handle on the electrical connection. It has a little purple plastic piece on the top that you need to insert a broad flathead into and push up. When you push it up all the way (~1") it will push itself off of the actuator.
photo (5).jpg

Next is the last attachment. Its the rod that runs on the interior to the top for the interior lock. Take the actuator and twist it so the rod comes out of the hole. Or you can cut the plastic with some pliers if its not coming out easily but only if you know for sure you wont use the old actuator.
photo (7).jpg

After you just gotta pull it out and its a real tight space so you gotta wiggle it a bit. To put it back together just reverse the steps. Before I bolted it back onto the door, I attached the electrical connector and tested out the lock.

The new "improved" locks have different part numbers and according to the parts department at my dealer, part #'s have been changed several times. Here's a pic comparing the two.
photo (8).jpg

It was an extremely easy fix although the price for parts was expensive. Now my locks even work in the sun and I dont have to go and manually lock each door. Hopefully it stays that way.
 

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Great, i need to do this this weekend. On a side note the older BS actuators had a similiar problem and it was because there is a capacitor that keeps the motors from overheating. Keep the old ones if you still have them, i plan on seeing if there is a way to mod the old actuator to bypass that faulty electrical component like the old style. That is what the older BS owners did and i will post if i find something.
 

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i just did this yesterday and try as i might i could not get this step.

Next is the last attachment. Its the rod that runs on the interior to the top for the interior lock. Take the actuator and twist it so the rod comes out of the hole. Or you can cut the plastic with some pliers if its not coming out easily but only if you know for sure you wont use the old actuator.

I couldn't get my hands in there and i was loosing daylight so I popped out a black plug behind the door handle and put my socket in there with an extension and pulled off the entire door handle from the outside. Then i could disconnect the top of the rod and pulled the entire actuator out. Then i just transfered over the rods and put it back in.

While i was there i modded in some chevy logo courtesy lights....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Once the actuator was unbolted I swung it towards me so I could twist it. It seems like you thought I meant to disconnect the top of the rods instead of the end that's connected the actuator. Both rods you can disconnect from the actuator and leave them connected to the top. Either way works I guess
 

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I couldn't get the top one to budge at all, tried twisting it and turning and wiggling, it just wouldnt move off the little jag in the rod. Allmost like it was dry rotted on even when i pulled it out i had to really leverage it out of the rubber stopped hole in the actuator. Pulling out the handle literally took about two minutes and most of that was trying to figure out how to get to the bolt closest to the back of the truck. Once i realized that the plug could be popped out i could just pull both bolts out, pull our the handle and disconnect the top part of the rod like nothing.
 

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Hi There, would you mind listing part numbers for the actuator assemblies? I've been hunting around for them for a bit online and I can't seem to find a definitive answer. I've got to replace my driver's side rear but all 4 part numbers wouldn't hurt. Nice write up!
 

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dsciulli19 said:
Hi There, would you mind listing part numbers for the actuator assemblies? I've been hunting around for them for a bit online and I can't seem to find a definitive answer. I've got to replace my driver's side rear but all 4 part numbers wouldn't hurt. Nice write up!
Me too, have been looking for a while for my drivers door, tired of locking manually.
 

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I need to replace 3 of mine! Only the front passenger side works.:-( Sucks I can start the engine but can't lock the doors!

Sent from Rusty's iPhone 5s
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry guys got caught up with school. Here's the part numbers for all four doors. The parts lady wrote down the location for each on the side. The part description says latch for the bottom two but means lock. The parts lady said the number changes often so double check.
 

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when you guys replaced these did It unlock by its self and did the lights come on at random I have an 08 Silverado thzt does that when its parked in the driveway after a certain amount of time?
 
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