Nope. Can will not effect any of that.

All the can is there to do is keep the oil out of the intake and hence keep the valves clean.

 

If your MPG is subsequently worse and/or you experience any spark knock when lugging at low RPMs, then check all of the vacuum/breather lines you spliced into for the catch can for leaks.

 

I was under the impression from the RX's FAQ's that by capturing any contaminants would reduce knock retard thus decreasing detonation and also by removing contaminants it can contribute to a cleaner more complete fuel burn, resulting in better mileage.

 

Would a maker make false claims to possibly boost sales to gullible customers? Nah; no way!

Let the buyer beware.

 

Put aside the RX portion of my statement. Are you saying that oil vapors that get recycled and pool up in the intake eventually entering the combustion chamber doesn't dilute and decrease octane? If the octane is reduced it can't cause detonation? The ECM doesn't retard timing under this condition? If the can is catching this oil vapor and it never reaches the combustion chamber, there isn't a difference? The difference between these two conditions won't affect mileage? Are you saying cans don't work and don't cause the differences described above and in my previous statement. Were talking DI engines here too and keeping oil off the backs of the valves is even more important since they can coke up causing a decrease in mileage and other performance issues. There might be something false here, but it wasn't either of my statements.

 

Put aside the RX portion of my statement. Are you saying that oil vapors that get recycled and pool up in the intake eventually entering the combustion chamber doesn't dilute and decrease octane? If the octane is reduced it can't cause detonation? The ECM doesn't retard timing under this condition? If the can is catching this oil vapor and it never reaches the combustion chamber, there isn't a difference? The difference between these two conditions won't affect mileage? Are you saying cans don't work and don't cause the differences described above and in my previous statement. Were talking DI engines here too and keeping oil off the backs of the valves is even more important since they can coke up causing a decrease in mileage and other performance issues. There might be something false here, but it wasn't either of my statements.

A catch can isn't going to magically "get your valves back to brand new condition." What it will do, however, is keep them from getting worse. So no, you won't "gain" mpg by adding one.

 

Never said "get your valves back to brand new condition." Never said anything of the sort. Just stated why it was so important for DI engines to have a can. Also reiterated what a can does and as a result of getting the oil vapor out of the intake air I explained how it could result in better mileage since the oil isn't diluting the A/F ratio anymore. How much, who knows. An increase of some sort is possible and it can add up over time. By the same principle it could be argued that a power increase is a possibility too since the compression ratio isn't decreased by oil dilution causing timing to retard causing a loss in power. Maybe not one that is felt enough by the driver to write home about, but an decrease nevertheless. Imagine the pooling oil over time entering combustion chambers at different times and at different amounts. We are talking a different A/F ratio for every cylinder at any given time. Completely random. Taking that situation away couldn't possibly aid in power and or mileage increases. Seems like simple physics to me so not sure why it's even contested that a mileage increase is a possibility.

 

Adding the catch can will help keep your valves from getting more oil coked, and provide a slight increase in power...so slight, that you won't be able to notice. As stated, removing the oil vapor from the fuel/air mixture will allow for a slight bump in timing/performance.

 

I checked the can at the end of the first day of use.

I was surprised to see some thick (albeit clean) oil in the bottom and a oily sheen across the entire inside. It wasn't much. Maybe 1/8 teaspoon..maybe less. However after only 60 miles....

I am no auto expert... nor any type of scientist. But, beyond the coking issue, I have to believe the oily shit being sprayed into the gas/air mixture affects performance in some way. Just seems like common sense.

I will get a picture tonight.

 

Inside your crankcase, the ambient air during operation is full of vaporized engine oil (carrying combustion contaminants a bit) and water vapor.
Normally, the breathers at the top of the valve covers suck these vapors back into the intake manifold for combustion.
A catch can positions a wire mesh "catch" in the loop where vaporized stuff can condense on and drip down into the "can".
This will be a mixture of oil and water for the most part. More water in the winter when there's more water vapor condensation on the inside of your engine.
Combined, you'll see 2-4oz over a typical 3-4,000 mile oil change interval. That's all junk that is not ending up in your intake.

These do work in that they keep the intake and throttle body cleaner.
Performance increase- none aside from the benefits you get from a cleaner intake.

 

I checked the can at the end of the first day of use.

I was surprised to see some thick (albeit clean) oil in the bottom and a oily sheen across the entire inside. It wasn't much. Maybe 1/8 teaspoon..maybe less. However after only 60 miles....

I will get a picture tonight.

that seems like a very large amount for such few miles. in the warmer months, I would get an ounce (maybe 2) after 5000 miles

 

Never said "get your valves back to brand new condition." Never said anything of the sort. Just stated why it was so important for DI engines to have a can. Also reiterated what a can does and as a result of getting the oil vapor out of the intake air I explained how it could result in better mileage since the oil isn't diluting the A/F ratio anymore. How much, who knows. An increase of some sort is possible and it can add up over time. By the same principle it could be argued that a power increase is a possibility too since the compression ratio isn't decreased by oil dilution causing timing to retard causing a loss in power. Maybe not one that is felt enough by the driver to write home about, but an decrease nevertheless. Imagine the pooling oil over time entering combustion chambers at different times and at different amounts. We are talking a different A/F ratio for every cylinder at any given time. Completely random. Taking that situation away couldn't possibly aid in power and or mileage increases. Seems like simple physics to me so not sure why it's even contested that a mileage increase is a possibility.

No one said that you said that. I said that.

Again, it is not going to "add" mpg to your vehicle. Once your valves are coated on a DI, short of a walnut/media spray, it's very hard to get them clean again. A catch can doesn't clean the valves...it keeps them from getting coated even more. The only way to "gain" mpg would be to clean the valves completely and ensure they don't get coated again.

In the case of your post, what you're asking is that if the truck brand new gets 20mpg and over time, the valves get coated, then it goes down to 18mpg. Add a catch can, and now, due to your theoretical "better A/F ratio", the mpg goes up to 19mpg...your thinking is you've "gained mpg" when in reality, you've still lost mpg because the truck started at a higher mpg when new.

 

Completely blown away at how much oil it has caught. This is after 480 miles.

The truck has 36000 on it. I think I will have to run some cleaner thru intake. I can't imagine how coked up the valves are. Sheeesh. Kinda pisses me off.

 

This is since January, about 7k miles in Texas.
Regular 12 ounce water bottle.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

This is from September 11, 2018 (when I installed the CC) till February 1st, 2019. This is a 64 ounce orange juice container. It was filled completely to the top by March 11th, 2019 (6 months and right around 6,000 miles). I was emptying the CC everytime I filled the tank through the winter. Now I get all oil and the new container I started using back in March is not filling up nearly as fast and only check it every other fill up and there is maybe 2 tablespoons at most during that time, but the new container is just oil and doesn't show the same amount of separation as the attached picture.

 

Completely blown away at how much oil it has caught. This is after 480 miles.

The truck has 36000 on it. I think I will have to run some cleaner thru intake. I can't imagine how coked up the valves are. Sheeesh. Kinda pisses me off.

I haven't gotten that much in almost 3,000 miles and 4 months of having my CC installed. :shock:

 

Is a Catch Can needed in a 5.3 vortec engine or just the newer gasoline direct injection motors?

 

It won't hurt on any engine. But the valve coking isn't a huge issue at all on the vortec motors as it is on the ecotecs.

The vortecs still have fuel going over the intake valves so that helps keep them cleaner. But the oil is still going into the intake and a can will help prevent that.

 

It won't hurt on any engine. But the valve coking isn't a huge issue at all on the vortec motors as it is on the ecotecs.

The vortecs still have fuel going over the intake valves so that helps keep them cleaner. But the oil is still going into the intake and a can will help prevent that.

This.

 

Just bought a '14 GMC Serra w/5.3L motor with 87,000 on it and have been reading up on these catch cans and AFM disablers.....I bought the Diablosport plug in for the AFM...tried looking at RX for catch cans but everything they have is out of stock...any other suggestions?

sorry for the hijack.

 

Just bought a '14 GMC Serra w/5.3L motor with 87,000 on it and have been reading up on these catch cans and AFM disablers.....I bought the Diablosport plug in for the AFM...tried looking at RX for catch cans but everything they have is out of stock...any other suggestions?

sorry for the hijack.

Why not try looking at Elite Engineering catch cans since that's the product this thread is based on.

 

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/e2-catch-can/

This one.......

 

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/e2-catch-can/

This one.......

got it thanks....do I need the check valve and clean side separator? Single exit dual exit?

sorry new stuff to me.

 

Everything you need will be included in the kit......
Check off the following when you order:
Dual port: Yes
Clean side separator: Yes
Add check valve: Yes

You don't need extra hose...they give you plenty.

This is the one I have....you can get by with less. Install took me about 30 minutes. I mounted mine between the washer fluid bottle and the radiator.

The most difficult part of the installation was getting the hose to "thread into" the "AN" style connectors on top of the can. I put the ends of the hose in hot water for a few minutes, and then used a little "love lube."

 

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/e2-catch-can/

This one.......

got it thanks....do I need the check valve and clean side separator? Single exit dual exit?

sorry new stuff to me.

no no and no

Their basic can is more than enough to get the job done. The rest is just overkill and wasted expense